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I now have brakes.Thanks for all that replied and offered suggestions. I can push hard enough to lock up the front wheels. This is a 105 percent improvement over the origninal 9 inch rotors and Ford dovetail calipers that came with the factory build. I can remmeber pushing as hard as I could, getting cramps in my right calf muscle, and the car was barely slowing down. With no room between the firewall and the left inner fender liner, a vacuum booster or Hydroboost was out of the question. A custom engineered conversion kit took the rotors from 9" to 11", max for 15" wheels. The early 80's Camaro floating pin front brakes with 2 15/16" pistons was a big improvement and also a cause of a mushy brake pedal. The brake arm and pedal box were modified to bring the lug for the brake pushrod closer to the pivot point. These two changes gave me a theoretical 2.0 times mechanical advantage improvement in brake force. The trouble was the two new 2 15/16" caliper pistons took more fluid than the 1.0" master cylinder could deliver. The removed calipers had 2 5/8" pistons, so the theorectical fluid volume increase for the front is 25%, assuming the pistons in both types of calipers move the same axial distance. Increase in MC output, assuming the same stroke is 13%, and this was enough to supply the new fronts. A simple ratio comparison between old MC and caliper piston diameters with the new ones shows a modest 5% increase in braking force. With an adjustable brake pushrod, I now have a true 90 degree angle between the brake pedal arm and the pushrod when the pedal feels solid. Any pivot type mechanism like this (clutch pedal, rocker arm) has a variable ratio during its travel, and for a brake pedal, this is the way to optimize the force you generate with your right leg. Unfortunately, the brake pedal has about 3 inches of travel before it becomes really firm. I'd like to reduce this a little, and was wondering if anyone reduced their brake pedal travel using braided steel flexible brake lines?
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