Oil Cooler Disconnection - Page 3

lineslinger · #1 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Aside from blowing 3/4 qt of cold oil (from the cooler and lines) into a hot engine, I can't think of any reason not to do that.

That's the beauty of either Rob's design or the Canton T-stat...both have the ability to trickle oil thru the cooler at all times so the above scenario never occurs (the Canton flows 90/10 until ~210*).

-Dean

Believe it or not I had the same thought before installing it.

The Mocal stat' shown in the photo never completely closes but allows operating temp. engine oil to circulate on a constant but restricted volume so you don't have a cold charge just sitting stagnant in the lines and cooler.

This protects against any sudden or radical temperature contrasts being introduced when it's slow open design is actuated.

Grubby · #2 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 04:17 PM

Rob,
What is the brand and part number of the diverter? It looks promising.

John

rob frink · #3 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 06:17 AM

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fastd · #4 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 05:46 AM

rob frink,

Have you tested the temperature increase/decrease when you have the flow on/off for the street?

rob frink · #5 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 06:34 AM

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Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 04:01 AM

Aaah,
I wondered if Rob wasn't the owner/seller/designer/engineer to this piece? Expensive? Yes, but it IS pretty enough to frame and put in your shop or even your "racing wall" in your home! PLUS assuming it works it's everything you could ask for!

Rob, I spent 30 years in "cow town? USA, have you just started this business in recent years? I had never heard of your business (or your business address) until Blas posted.

I will surely pass this info along to all my Cobra customers!
DV
PS Now do I get a 125% discount?

rob frink · #7 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 06:18 AM

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Double Venom · #8 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 04:10 AM

Double post.
Dv

fastd · #9 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 05:20 AM

New related question:
Are we overthinking/oversolving all of this?
If my oil shows 60-70 C in the pan; that means it is hotter coming out of the block, guessing 70-80 C; and in the hottest parts of the engine (bearings, around the pistons, etc), it is probably still hotter, guessing 90-100 C (although I read an article that said the temp difference is actually greater); doesn't that make 60 C in the pan OK if I can keep it there?

Ant · #10 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 02:35 PM

Rob,

The little SBF pencil dist/oil pump drive, I dont have one of those in my engine due to pump being belt driven, its all relative hp loss, and running -12 lines everywhere and trying to keep all Aeroquip smooth flowing fittings to try and optomise the system.

I have seen a lot of cars with ext oil coolers and there doesnt seem to be a problem with the oil pumps, maybe a higher volume pump is fitting on factory cars with coolers, oil pressure loss is more to do with leaks or engine clearances, but guys notice losses after they fit these coolers so who am I to say..!

Fastd,
Canton T/stats dont open until the oil hits 215f so thats hot enough for oil to operate efficiently or at least it gets rid of moisture from the oil. Oil is hotter at the crank etc where friction heat is generated, and returns to the main oil gallery a lot cooler maybe. I have an oil temp sender in the oil tank so I will be happy if thats no more than 230f.

rob frink · #11 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 06:12 AM

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Ant · #12 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 02:36 PM

Rob, exactly I think where more of the road going guys have trouble with oil pressure loss is in-adequate plumbing, and not thinking of the oil system as a whole unit, bit like more hp and the vicious spriral starts with parts and $$$$$.

Alf,

There are some fine looking expensive pieces out there and no doubt they work well, I have the Canton as it has plenty of flow (approx 40gpm) for my alloy engine. I had a Mocal thermostat on my FE390 and no problem, some guys do a little de-burr of the Mocal as the casting isnt that well finished.

Canton in my opinion use the handy US philosophy of bigger is better for the purpose of flow, so I have used their 6" cannister Oil filter as well which flows 45gpm and is claimed to filter down to 8 microns using a special depth filter media.

Gunner · #13 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastd

New related question:
Are we overthinking/oversolving all of this?
If my oil shows 60-70 C in the pan; that means it is hotter coming out of the block, guessing 70-80 C; and in the hottest parts of the engine (bearings, around the pistons, etc), it is probably still hotter, guessing 90-100 C (although I read an article that said the temp difference is actually greater); doesn't that make 60 C in the pan OK if I can keep it there?

I think maybe YOU'RE overthinking this.

I doubt there's much temperature variance anywhere in the liquid oil once an engine is warmed up. The film on the walls of the cylinders, etc. might be hotter but I'd bet that if you had sensors in every part of the liquid, it would be within a degree or two. (The downstream line from the cooler being the exception.)

The magic 80* is the point at which oil cooks off moisture and vaporizes it, meaning it can be removed by exiting the breather or (better) being pulled out by the PCV system. Any lower and the vaporization will not be as complete.

ALF · #14 (**permalink**) 10-30-2009, 03:53 AM

I'm in the middle to evaluating the best setup for my car and I'm now struggling between two solutions.
- Oil bypass valve from Beaumont (http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/index-perf-ap.html)
- Oil thermostat from MOCAL (http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm)

Does one of you have experience with this systems and could send me some recommendation?

Some how I've the feeling that the MOCAL system would be enough, but as I would like to select the best solution for my car, your feedback would be really appreciated.