Oil Cooler Disconnection - Page 2

RedBarchetta · #1 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ant

Another way is to fit a double male fitting and joint the lines down in the engine bay tie up and nobody is the wiser, but it doesnt really matter what people think anyway.

Ant, good point. My little invention (

) is adaptable at my Canton thermostat as well (since I'm using the same 90's there, too). I placed it in front of the cooler lines more so for effect. Either way, it's a nice band-aid if I ever need it to limp home. An expensive band-aid, but a good arrow to have in the quiver.

-Dean

rob frink · #2 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:24 PM

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Gunner · #3 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 01:55 PM

You can't easily put shutoff valves anywhere in oil plumbing, since it's a loop. (Also consider that if you use two valves, putting them in mismatched positions would block oil flow and be disastrous.) I've never seen a Y valve in AN plumbing, although one might exist. In any case, shutting off the entire long loop to the cooler would be preferable for several reasons. You would probably want some seep pressure through the cooler and lines to keep the oil from sludging up in there.

Thought RB's way: that's a nice emergency piece. I was looking a AN part prices and found it would be cheaper to use AN-NPT unions and a section of iron pipe. Nowhere near as pretty or sexy, but certainly functional and a good "get-her-home" part.

fastd · #4 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 02:18 PM

thanks for your thoughts gents.

Blas · #5 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 02:44 PM

If you have some money to spend. Here is a link to a fantastic solution to the problem.

www.beaumontmetalworks.com/index-perf-ap.html

Totally adjustable and a work of art...

Gunner · #6 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blas

If you have some money to spend. Here is a link to a fantastic solution to the problem.

Those are beautiful, but almost ridiculously expensive. You can put on a Canton oil thermostat for less than half that price and never have to worry about oil temp one way or the other again. The Cantons are pretty, too.

RedBarchetta · #7 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunner

Those are beautiful, but almost ridiculously expensive.

For 100% billet (and terrific craftsmanship), they are actually selling at a decent price. Until you hold one in your hand (the pictures don't do the unit justice), it's hard to talk it down. I considered going to this at one point (with AN12 all the way through and around) but backed down. I do have the billet collapsable jack stands though...one of Rob's first customers on those.

-Dean

rob frink · #8 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 09:01 AM

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RedBarchetta · #9 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 11:23 AM

Dex, they are "AN" (Air Force Navy) fittings. Mine are from Aeroquip, but Russell and Earl's also sell comparable (Aeroquip is arguably the better of the three, hence you pay more for them). Summit Racing and Jeg's are the most popular mail-order houses for these, but any local speed shop worth their salt carries them, too.

-Dean

Gunner · #10 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Dex, they are "AN" (Air Force Navy) fittings. Mine are from Aeroquip, but Russell and Earl's also sell comparable (Aeroquip is arguably the better of the three, hence you pay more for them).

Aeroquips are more expensive because they typically come certified for real aircraft use - Earl's and the others are not. Other than for ooooh value, any quality maker is just fine for street use.

A couple of years ago, an air maintenance house was being liquidated and they had a huge supply of Aeroquip fittings for which they'd lost (or didn't care to maintain) the certification chain. The fittings were going on eBay for absurdly low prices. Wish I'd had a few hundred to invest, but there are SO many fittings it's almost impossible to stock up for personal use...

SKINNEDR · #11 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 12:16 PM

Please help me understand something.
If I purchase the hose and the fittings separately, how do I connect the fiitings to the hose? From what I see the these hoses can be purchased in any length without any thing on the ends. There is a female connection for the hose end, how do you get a close fit (leak free connection) with that?
Help me here to understand the basic...

Also, what kind of tools is basicly used to cut a braided hose?

Sorry ..Dex...

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKINNEDR

Help me here to understand the basic...

Also, what kind of tools is basicly used to cut a braided hose?

It is pretty easy to do with your Dremel tool, tape, and AN wrenches (not vise grips). A piece of advice, do your cutting away from your car. Click here for some nice shots on how easy it is to do: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=561081

or this one: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...-fittings.html

and this one is very nice as well: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ings/index.php

khansmith · #13 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKINNEDR

Please help me understand something.
If I purchase the hose and the fittings separately, how do I connect the fiitings to the hose? From what I see the these hoses can be purchased in any length without any thing on the ends. There is a female connection for the hose end, how do you get a close fit (leak free connection) with that?
Help me here to understand the basic...

Also, what kind of tools is basicly used to cut a braided hose?

Sorry ..Dex...

I wish I had this tool when I made my braided lines
http://www.koultools.com/

I bought them recently and really was amazed at how easy it was to create the lines.

ALF · #14 (**permalink**) 10-29-2009, 04:29 AM

which system would you recommend?
- Mocal
- Beaumontmetalworks

Gunner · #15 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 11:23 AM

Aircraft fittings, AN fittings, braided hose and fittings.

All of the race shops carry them; shop around. JEGS seems to have the best prices. They are expensive. (You're looking at about $60-70 for the fittings on RB's, not counting the foot of hose.) You can get them in various colors - the traditional red/blue, black, stainless or clear anodized, sometimes in fancy anodized colors.

I have a sketch of a less expensive bypass, but it's meant for emergency use and probably isn't quite pretty enough for everyday use. In short:

Two right-angle AN fittings, sized to match your oil cooler line size (-AN10 or -AN12, most likely). The second fitting on each should be NPT 1/2 or 3/4.
Two NPT female unions to match the above size. You can use hardware-store iron or more expensive AN parts.
Iron pipe, length to suit the spread of your cooler fittings, threaded both ends.

Assemble the whole thing and you have a bypass just like RB's, not as pretty but for about $40 in parts total. I plan to slip a length of heat-shrink tubing over the whole thing and shrink it on to provide abrasion resistance at least halfway over the unions.

Two AN caps to cap off your cooler neatly, a matching AN wrench, a couple of big wire ties to secure the bypass in place, and you have a busted oil cooler fix-it kit.

fastd · #16 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 01:34 PM

I am wondering as to how you use guys use the oil cooler diverter value from beaumont... I mean, when it is cold outside, you shut off flow to the cooler? Or do you start the car with it open, let it heat up and then shut it off before you start driving? Or do you go the whole winter with it shut off? Do you worry about sludging up the works past the valve?

Blas · #17 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 01:47 PM

Thats the nice thing about Rob's design.. You can regulate the flow through it from wide open to a slipstream or just off...therefor you can if you choose, have a minimal flow through cooler to prevent any buildup inside...of just have a partial flow on cooler days, or wide open at the track...

rob frink · #18 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:13 PM

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lineslinger · #19 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:05 PM

Is there a reason you couldn't put a sandwich style thermostat of this configuration in line? This one only opens (to the cooler) if the oil temp. exceeds 220 degrees

RedBarchetta · #20 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lineslinger

Is there a reason you couldn't put a sandwich style thermostat of this configuration in line? This one only opens (to the cooler) if the oil temp. exceeds 220 degrees.

Aside from blowing 3/4 qt of cold oil (from the cooler and lines) into a hot engine, I can't think of any reason not to do that.

That's the beauty of either Rob's design or the Canton T-stat...both have the ability to trickle oil thru the cooler at all times so the above scenario never occurs (the Canton flows 90/10 until ~210*).

-Dean