Oil Cooler Disconnection

fastd · #1 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:10 PM

I am thinking of disconnecting my oil cooler; thoughts? Please discuss.

Cobra 29 · #2 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:17 PM

I understand that the oil cooler is not needed for street / occasional track driving. I have a large capacity Canton pan. The oil temp reading only gets to 180 degrees like the water temp after 20 minutes of straight driving. I think I will also get more oil pressure too since the pump will not have to push oil thru about 12 feet of lines.

Hotfingrs · #3 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:18 PM

Why..... ?? Do you want to disconnect your cooler.

fastd · #4 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:33 PM

I would like to be able to drive my car when the ambient temp dips below 50 degrees. With the cooler, the oil never gets hot enough...

ERA Chas · #5 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastd

I am thinking of disconnecting my oil cooler; thoughts? Please discuss.

There are several very recent threads with extensive debate and tech. To avoid a total rehash, just search the subject.

Silverback51 · #6 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:48 PM

For Winter driving, I have a piece of .06 clear lexan that I put in front of the cooler. Unless you reach down and touch it, you wouldn't know it's there.

dcdoug · #7 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverback51

For Winter driving, I have a piece of .06 clear lexan that I put in front of the cooler. Unless you reach down and touch it, you wouldn't know it's there.

John - what have you found is the best way to attach the lexan to the front of your oil cooler? I need to do the same thing.

Silverback51 · #8 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

John - what have you found is the best way to attach the lexan to the front of your oil cooler? I need to do the same thing.

It's the same as installing a sliding window. Push it up in the slot, and then let it drop down.

dcdoug · #9 (**permalink**) 11-10-2009, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverback51

It's the same as installing a sliding window. Push it up in the slot, and then let it drop down.

I didn't really see a slot, but I just took a cursory look. I will take a closer one this weekend.

Gunner · #10 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:50 PM

"Wow, I love the feel of a warm oil cooler on a winter morning... what the hey?"

ZOERA-SC7XX · #11 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 06:19 PM

Absolutely no advantage for an oil cooler on a street driven car. If anything, you'd want something that heats your oil, especially in winter/fall. Dummy it up just for looks.

fastd · #12 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 05:45 AM

the plexiglass cover doesn't work that great for me. I have tried also insulting the oil lines to the oil cooler - it definitely gets hotter than before, but why go through all of that?

Double Venom · #13 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 05:57 AM

"QUESTION" 2003 Chevrolet Corvette mileage: 69,000. Do I need an oil cooler? My new engine in my corvette runs a 230-degree oil temperature. After running at 80-85 for 10-15 miles out of Atlanta traffic, but cools to around 215-220 at 70-75, range is this ok? What do you think Bob & Ken?
Answer: An oil temperature of 220 degrees is normal. An engine oil cooler would be beneficial to high performance engines."
"2CARPROS"

ERA Charles is right.... (For street cars or cars not running full time track conditions):

However one of the hardest things I have to do is convince new owners that a functioning "oil cooler" is only detrimental to their motors! It is hard enough to get the oil temp to over 200 degrees in their cars, let alone with a cooler. Of course you can sandwich in a temperature valve, but why? Just hook a cooler up in the nose and run dummy lines if you want the look.

DV

RedBarchetta · #14 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 10:23 AM

Why not just build a "bridge" line and keep the cooler for warmer weather? I made one from a spare section of -10 hose and some spare fittings (to be used if I ever puncture my cooler on the road...I keep it in my tool bag). It's a simple loosening of the cooler lines and then joining them together with the bridge line. Fasten it down with a couple of black zip ties and it shouldn't look too bad either. And if anyone asks what it is, explain to them. Easy stuff.

Or spend more money and install a good thermostat (like a Canton unit). See my gallery for pics.

-Dean

fastd · #15 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 10:39 AM

Dean,
I tried to go to your gallery to see your set up but I didn't see it.

I am not sure I follow; you hook the existing lines into a bridge line? How does that turn off the flow?
What if I just inserted some valved fitting and stopped the flow to the cooler? Would that work? I guess I would drain the oil out of the oil lines to the cooler after I valved them closed...

RedBarchetta · #16 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastd

Dean,
I tried to go to your gallery to see your set up but I didn't see it.

I am not sure I follow; you hook the existing lines into a bridge line? How does that turn off the flow?
What if I just inserted some valved fitting and stopped the flow to the cooler? Would that work? I guess I would drain the oil out of the oil lines to the cooler after I valved them closed...

I just checked my gallery and must have deleted a recent pic of my Canton thermostat set-up. I think you can still see it in one of the engine pics.

But just to help you (and others) out, I just snapped these pics of the bridge and how it would attach.

And no one give me any crap for the oil residue on the one fitting...has been cleaned and fixed!

-Dean

Blas · #17 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 01:44 PM

What you need to do with the bridge is put a piece of plastic hosing on the braided hose so IF you should ever need to use it, it won't scratch up the aluminum where it will be resting...But you know, since you have made the provision for a cooler failure, you'll never have a problem with it....Murphy's Law #11...

SKINNEDR · #18 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

I just checked my gallery and must have deleted a recent pic of my Canton thermostat set-up. I think you can still see it in one of the engine pics.

But just to help you (and others) out, I just snapped these pics of the bridge and how it would attach.

And no one give me any crap for the oil residue on the one fitting...has been cleaned and fixed!

-Dean

If I were to look for those type of hoses with the color connectors, how would I describe it? Is there a technical name for those hoses w/ their colored connectors?
Thanks in advance for your reply..
Dex..

fastd · #19 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 01:47 PM

Oh, I see. The bridge just bypasses the oil cooler...

What do you think about the idea of using shut off values at the other end of the lines, i.e. right off of the oil filter housing?

Ant · #20 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastd

Oh, I see. The bridge just bypasses the oil cooler...

What do you think about the idea of using shut off values at the other end of the lines, i.e. right off of the oil filter housing?

Another way is to fit a double male fitting and joint the lines down in the engine bay tie up and nobody is the wiser, but it doesnt really matter what people think anyway. I am using a Canton T/stat which I think is a better way to go, because it will remain closed for most of your driving, and you dont have to change lines which can introduce contamination into the oil system.

If I was just street driving I wouldnt bother with a cooler at all, I even thought of not having a cooler on this car because of all alloy engine etc but that might be ok on a cool day at the track............!

Rob,

Have you considered a pump with more capacity, of course the downside to that is hp loss, I have just purchased and fitted a higher volume pressure side dry sump pump for my car and geared it down so it just maintains oil pressure at max rpm!