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02-08-2010, 07:22 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Claremore,
OK
Cobra Make, Engine: RUCC, 289 c.i. with a T-5 "Living the Cobra Experience"
Posts: 994
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Not Ranked
Driveshaft Bolts
While doing the "winter inspection" on my Cobra, I noticed the driveshaft bolts had loosened up where the driveshaft attaches to the diff. It has a 8.8 solid rear and has 3000 miles on it. I used the correct bolt, Ford PN N800594-S100 and used loctite on them when I originally installed them.
I'm replacing all the bolts but I'm wondering now should there be a lock washer on them too?
Thanks for the help! 
__________________
Juggernaut
"Living the Cobra Experience"
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02-08-2010, 07:46 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juggernaut
I'm replacing all the bolts but I'm wondering now should there be a lock washer on them too?
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Use grade 8 bolts, washers, and stover nuts.  |
02-09-2010, 08:31 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,028
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Not Ranked
It's also very important that the bolts are properly torqued to spec.
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02-09-2010, 08:52 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
Use the OEM bolts and nuts, torque to spec and if the holes have been elongated you have more issues.
I believe the 12 pt heads are a metric size and are much higher quality than typical grade 8.
Maybe 10.9 in metric terms??
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
Last edited by Rick Parker; 02-09-2010 at 07:18 PM..
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02-09-2010, 09:35 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Claremore,
OK
Cobra Make, Engine: RUCC, 289 c.i. with a T-5 "Living the Cobra Experience"
Posts: 994
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Parker
Use the OEM bolts and nuts, torque to spec and if the holes have been elongated you have more issues.
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Thanks for the info guys!
Does anyone know what the torque should be? I checked the holes & thank goodness they're not elongated.
__________________
Juggernaut
"Living the Cobra Experience"
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02-09-2010, 12:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Broken Arrow. OK ( South Tulsa), USA,
OK
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 COBRA FE 427 /4SP. (HCS Coupe w/ 408 Stroker and TKO 600 -sold)
Posts: 5,595
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Not Ranked
3/8" Grade 8 bolts should be around 55 pounds (dry)
7/16" Grade 8 bolts should be around 75 pounds (dry)
But the Ford service manual says 71-95 ft pounds of torque.
__________________
Sunshine, Asphalt and no stop signs...Perfect
"Let's roll"
"Be part of Something Good
......Leave Something Good Behind!"
from CD "Long Road Out of Eden"
Last edited by Clois Harlan; 02-09-2010 at 12:21 PM..
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02-09-2010, 12:23 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Claremore,
OK
Cobra Make, Engine: RUCC, 289 c.i. with a T-5 "Living the Cobra Experience"
Posts: 994
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clois Harlan
3/8" Grade 8 bolts should be around 55 pounds (dry)
7/16" Grade 8 bolts should be around 75 pounds (dry)
But the Ford service manual says 71-95 ft pounds of torque.
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Thanks Clois, I have the 7/16" bolts so 75 it is.
__________________
Juggernaut
"Living the Cobra Experience"
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02-09-2010, 12:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2,979
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Not Ranked
Patrick, the 8.8 doesn't use nuts. The bolts thread into the input flange on the diff. Use proper torque as Bob said (about 75 ft. lbs) and some red loctite and they should be fine.
__________________
Remember, It's never too early to start beefing up your obituary.
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02-09-2010, 02:47 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Covington,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance # 532, 466 BB, 560HP
Posts: 3,029
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Not Ranked
Mine were loose when I bought my car. Put some red loctite on them and they have never moved.
__________________
John Hall
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02-09-2010, 03:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: jbl
Posts: 2,291
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Not Ranked
i used blue loctite and 65 lbs. on the allen head bolts on mine and they really cracked when i broke them loose. next time i used 45 and blue loctite and they were much more cordial. i'd like to be there the day after you put them on with 75 lbs. and red loctite and watch you break them loose, or a year later. mine were 3/8 coarse thread. just something to think about.
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02-09-2010, 03:57 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8or
Patrick, the 8.8 doesn't use nuts. The bolts thread into the input flange on the diff.
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Hmmm, must be the snow-blindness. I'm tempted to buy him a Jag IRS to make up for it.  |
02-09-2010, 05:08 PM
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Senior CC Premier Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: SoCal,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX #4xxx with CSX 482; David Kee Toploader
Posts: 3,574
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Not Ranked
I just came from a place that is working on my Cobra this morning. They have a red '62-63 Corvette from Barrett-Jackson in there that the new Owner drove about 10 miles and the u-joints failed. Dropped the whole line while he was doing his first cruise. Mechanic said cheap bolts and elongated holes. Don't cheap out!!
__________________
All that's stopping you now Son, is blind-raging fear.......
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02-09-2010, 05:21 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernica
I just came from a place that is working on my Cobra this morning. They have a red '62-63 Corvette from Barrett-Jackson in there that the new Owner drove about 10 miles and the u-joints failed. Dropped the whole line while he was doing his first cruise. Mechanic said cheap bolts and elongated holes. Don't cheap out!!
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I have personally sheared off cheap u-joint bolts ( NOT in my ERA Cobra, however). It sounds like a friggin' grenade has gone off in your car and it will absolutely scare the crap out of you. Your drive line is not the place to scrimp, either on U-joints or on the fasteners that hold them. And no, I did not have a drive shaft safety hoop when I blew them either.  |
02-13-2010, 09:44 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 9
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Not Ranked
guys normal M12by1.75 metic bolts are made from 1541 material the N800594 ford part is made from higher grade 4037M material and is heat treated to 12.9 as indicated on the top of the head and should be torqued to the higher end of the spec. clean the pinion flange with a brush a gun barrel cleaning brush works good then rinse it out with brake cleaner. this will allow the loctite to set up
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