wrogers55 Wayne clutches are worn out by people and how they drive thier cars. I had a 72 C-30 truck with 3 on the tree. The truck went 90K miles and was sold to my friend. He has done body work, and replace the valve stems for the
oil usage for blue smoke startups. It now has 130,000+ and still running the same clutch. It's organic 12" for heavy duty usage. It's all about how much you slip the clutch when taking off, down shiftings, and the 5,000 rpm drop the pedal burnouts.
IMO a clutch is a wearout part and designed to protect the rest of the drive train. Most clutches have spring loaded hubs to absorb the shock of the power going to the rear wheels. Clutch is the cheapest to replace at $375 for a complete setup, no flywheel. You break a trans or rearend you are looking in the $1,000.00+.
Kevlar clutches need to be broken in and get heat cycles. Breakin on a Zoom setup was 500 miles before any hard driving. You have 550/500 hp tork motor. Go out and buy a stock 11" heavy duty clutch from Pep boys, Auto zone, R&S and drive the car. Stay away from multi clutches unless it's the Mcleod street twin disc setup. This clutch will hold your motor and more. It needs to be setup and might make a little noise when driving.
Unless you are going track and racing hard, go stock. I didn't see what trans you are running but here again, clutches will give up faster than a trans and save it. Rick L Ps Get a 2,600 lb or 2,800 pound pressure plate. You need nothing heavier. Call Brent and get a complete flywheel and clutch setup would be the best way to go and cheaper than Jeg's or Summit.
It needs heat to grab IMO
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