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-   -   Thinking of Moving to a carb setup (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/104448-thinking-moving-carb-setup.html)

mpanten 05-12-2010 08:00 PM
I would be interested to know of the shops, any in the NW ohio area?

olddog 05-12-2010 08:11 PM
Just so you know, starting an engine when it is 60 F with no choke takes some learning to deal with it. Driving, before the engine warms up a bit, can be quite tempermental.

You basically pump the accelerator to squirt extra fuel into the carb to keep it running until it warms up. Tricky to do while driving. Best to let it warm up.

You have to have patience and exercise calm deliberate control. In other words, don't get pissed and over rev your cold engine out of frustration. This is not for everyone.

olddog 05-12-2010 08:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpanten (Post 1050409)
I would be interested to know of the shops, any in the NW ohio area?
I talked with this guy. I kind of rubbed him wrong with some of my questions and he said a couple things I didn't like (but don't blame him). To be fair I challenged some things I later learned he was absolutely right about. He was the first person I had met that had as deep of knowledge as he did. He knows his stuff.

He has a web site, too. http://www.crt-performance.com/

CRT Performance, LLC
349 Cleveland Road
Norwalk, OH 44857
(419) 668-4151
(419) 668-4643 Fax

dcdoug 05-12-2010 08:19 PM
Even when you have a choke, best to let it warm up before driving it.

Excaliber 05-12-2010 08:26 PM
Got to KEEP pumping it, gently, to keep it running long enough for it to finally idle on it's own and finish warming up without having to tickle the throttle constantly for the first few minutes, or longer. No doubt it has a lot to do with the cam profile, it's got a "mean lumpy idle" when it IS warm, won't idle for squat until then. :)

1850 series Holleys would not do well in an auto cross high G load cornering scenario, is my guess. Even with mod's, still, I don't think they will cut it. Single carb, road race version, would be the way to go, sigh...

TButtrick 05-13-2010 04:40 AM
Quick Fuel Part# SS-750

http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/c...0w_hole(2).jpg

750 CFM Mechanical Secondary Street Carburetor - designed for street strip applications. Jet extensions and notched float make this carburetor strip ready while 4-corner idle, electric choke, and screw-in air bleeds help tune it for the street. All the features of our race carburetors merged into one street-friendly package.

mpanten 05-13-2010 07:12 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by olddog (Post 1050415)
I talked with this guy. I kind of rubbed him wrong with some of my questions and he said a couple things I didn't like (but don't blame him). To be fair I challenged some things I later learned he was absolutely right about. He was the first person I had met that had as deep of knowledge as he did. He knows his stuff.

He has a web site, too. http://www.crt-performance.com/

CRT Performance, LLC
349 Cleveland Road
Norwalk, OH 44857
(419) 668-4151
(419) 668-4643 Fax

Well I had him all set up to do it then he called and told me he didnt want to. He basically said that he was not sure how long it would take and that I should be prepared to write big check and that it still may not be right. This was after I was told by his staff that it was no problem.

Excaliber 05-13-2010 09:08 AM
I'm reminded of the Kirkhams, they messed around with EFI for awhile and then decided it had to many pitt falls and problems and don't recommend or use it.

I wonder if the Quick Fuel carb would work well in extreme cornering? Sounds like it's fine for drag racing, but....

blykins 05-13-2010 09:13 AM
Ernie, they have a model for every type of racing....a lot of the dirt trackers use them down here. They can be custom built for any application.

undy 05-13-2010 09:45 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Excaliber (Post 1050531)
I wonder if the Quick Fuel carb would work well in extreme cornering? Sounds like it's fine for drag racing, but....

Nope, I've quickfuel 4160 (1850) style 750s on my Tunnel Wedge built expressly for my engine and they still suck big donkey ears in heavy "G" corners. It's a "side-hung" float design issue kinda thing.

Excaliber 05-13-2010 11:50 AM
The Quick Fuel carb pictured in this thread is a center pivot, of course not a Le Mans style center pivot, but center never the less. Note the float adjustment in the center. I THINK the typical 8150 has square bowls with a side hung float?

olddog 05-13-2010 08:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpanten (Post 1050509)
Well I had him all set up to do it then he called and told me he didnt want to. He basically said that he was not sure how long it would take and that I should be prepared to write big check and that it still may not be right. This was after I was told by his staff that it was no problem.
I'm assuming he backed out of tuning the Mega Squirt set up. I'm not surprised. Typically dyno shops are asking 100 - 150 dollars per hour to do the tuning work. Everyone hates it when they have to pay some one for beating there head against the wall for 2 hours trying to figure out some intermitent or quarky problem with the hardware. I'm sure these situations can turn ugly and the dyno tuner would rather ovoid the whole issue. The last thing he wants is a ticked of guy telling everyone bad things. I have read about electrical problems with the Mega Squirt on their own web site. The guy is going to have to tell you the cost based on worst case, as he certainly is aware of these possible issues.

It is very pricey to have it tuned even if the hardware is all in perfect order.

Is all the components (injectors, O2, temp sensors, Map or Mass flow) all Ford compatible? If so you could pop the EEC IV on it, and this guy could tune it for you.

olddog 05-13-2010 08:19 PM
I doubt this guy would touch a Mega Squirt. I did a lot of talking with him, by email. Look up integrity in the dictionary and his picture will be there. A true class act and sharp as a tack. If you get to an ECU that he would work with, you might work something out.

He might be able to stear you in the best direction to go based on what you have.

NW corner of Columbus

Brady McCoy
Service Manager
Pickups Plus Cars
(740)549-2828 Lewis Center
(614)529-1212 Hilliard
http://www.pickupspluscars.com/

There is another guy he told me about in Mount Vernon. His web site kind of turn me off with the leagal discalaimers. But after I talked to him on the phone, I never met a nicer guy. His company is Thrill Ride Unlimited and his name is Paul. http://www.thrill-ride.com/index2.html

Bottom line no good shop wants to work on some system that they waste time fighting with. The cost go too high and they know it just ends up as bad PR for them.

mpanten 05-14-2010 06:31 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by olddog (Post 1050675)
I'm assuming he backed out of tuning the Mega Squirt set up. I'm not surprised. Typically dyno shops are asking 100 - 150 dollars per hour to do the tuning work. Everyone hates it when they have to pay some one for beating there head against the wall for 2 hours trying to figure out some intermitent or quarky problem with the hardware. I'm sure these situations can turn ugly and the dyno tuner would rather ovoid the whole issue. The last thing he wants is a ticked of guy telling everyone bad things. I have read about electrical problems with the Mega Squirt on their own web site. The guy is going to have to tell you the cost based on worst case, as he certainly is aware of these possible issues.

It is very pricey to have it tuned even if the hardware is all in perfect order.

Is all the components (injectors, O2, temp sensors, Map or Mass flow) all Ford compatible? If so you could pop the EEC IV on it, and this guy could tune it for you.
The injectors are delphi, no mass flow, it s pretty simple set up and it's probably ok, I just hate not knowing!! Honestly I would rather just switch to a carb set up than change ecu's, inectors etc.. Im going to change out the collector gaskets to see if I can get the backfireing to stop, if not I will probably just switch to a carb and be done with it.


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