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-   -   FFR Cobra with a 4-lug bolt pattern??? (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/104612-ffr-cobra-4-lug-bolt-pattern.html)

NCSNAKE 05-24-2010 04:24 AM
Made it through my first weekend without sheering wheel studs or seeing blue lights in the rear view mirror. The fuel injected 302 runs strong with outstanding throttle response, too bad it looks so out of place under the hood. An intake and carb swap will no doubt be in the future. The rear end is nicely documented in all the literature that came with the car. It was probably set up to run GT Mustang wheels and is a bit too wide for the vintage looking wheels on it now. No problems, not even rubbing, but visually it could stand to have the tires pulled inboard a bit on each side. OK, that's my critical analysis. I love the car. The freakin' thing is amazing. I can't wait for the Memorial Day long weekend to play around some more.:3DSMILE:

On a side note, are there prefered locations for jackstands on the FFR MKII? Best place for the jack pad to get the front end up in the air? Figured I would ask the pro's first.

tcrist 05-24-2010 06:43 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Excaliber (Post 1053010)
Eh eh, and just what does a "race vehicle" Fox body Mustang look like???

I've seen plenty of them run at local drag strips, there are tons of pictures of them on the net as well. MOST of them look pretty much stock, there an inexpensive way to go low buck racing.

I knew a guy in Honolulu that ran a fairly crappy looking old Fox body and a motor he put together himself. He was using a Nitrous shot and was pulling some amazing times with car. I asked him if he worried about blowing the motor up. He was like, "No problem, easy to find another 302, swap the bottle, start over".

Older Mustangs really are a bargain and plenty parts available.


Well Ernie, It's like this. I have never seen a RACE car with rusted, filthy components and drum brakes. Thats why the comment about a street car that someone is trying to race.

lovehamr 05-24-2010 07:44 AM
NC, glad to here you dig your Cobra and I must say that the blue lights are much more likey than shearing studs! As far as jacking and jack stands go, anywhere on the main frame should be fine, though I have a BDR so someone with an FFR will probably speak up.

BTW, I noticed you're in Concord, I'm from Gastonia.........well, back in the day. LOL

Excaliber 05-24-2010 08:58 AM
Oh, I see your point Terry. When it comes to "race cars" that may be true. When it comes to "weekend racers", like I suspect the Mustang in question here is, a little dirt here and there seems to be the rule rather than the exception. Especially as that applies to the older Fox body 'Stangs. An inexpensive weekend warrior ride, don't spend to much time fusing over the details. Anyway, thats what I've seen mostly in this category at the local drags.

tcrist 05-24-2010 09:58 AM
Ernie, Counter point taken.

Speaking of the picture above, I would bet that the driver never actually torqued his wheel nuts to any standard (what ever it is). Tight is tight, so they say. Or is it "sometimes tight is too tight".

Steno 05-24-2010 11:46 AM
Really!
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Excaliber (Post 1052456)
Goodrich TA's. He'll never generate enough grip to warrant 5 lug no matter how hard he tries. :)
A member of the Windy City Cobra Club Broke into the 10's with radial TA's! Next he'll try drag radials! Check out his post!

Excaliber 05-24-2010 12:07 PM
Quote:
Check out his post!
I would like to check that out, gotta a link? If had some decent tires he could get out of the 10's and into the 9's. But he'll need a five lug wheel. :)

Frank Messina 05-26-2010 05:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSNAKE (Post 1053020)
On a side note, are there prefered locations for jackstands on the FFR MKII? Best place for the jack pad to get the front end up in the air? Figured I would ask the pro's first.
If the ride height is set per FFR specs you'll need a low profile jack to get it up in the air. On the front I use a two step process. Roll jack under left front corner of the 4" tube. Jack up enough to get an 8" block under the right 4" tube. Lower the jack and reposition dead center under the forward 4" cross member tube. Jack it up to the sky and put stands under the 4" tubes. On the rear just put the jack under the diff housing and raise it up. Jack stands at the ends of the 4" tubes. If you're trying to get all 4 wheels off the ground it may be helpful to slip some 2 X 8s under the rear tires FIRST before anything else. Otherwise you may find after the front is up that you don't have enough room under the fuel tank to move the jack handle.
Frank


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