6 seconds to break into your garage
 

Saw this on the FE Forum and thought it was worth reposting:

6 seconds to break into your garage. :eek:

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=CMz1tXBVT1s

Putting a C clamp on your track or screwdriver through one of the slots is a good idea if you are going to be gone for awhile. Also add a motion detector to your alarm system in the garage if you have one.

And, dont get a garage door with windows.

Just put some current to the track...give 'em a jolt through the coat hanger!

IN all seriousness, I use bolts, unplug my opener and have alarm sensors up the wazoo in my garage! And that is regardless if I am home or not.

That's a pretty slick trick. I often wonder about cars parked in the driveway with garage door openers clipped to their visors. Just as easy with the right skills and tools to get into the car and press the button in maybe what, 10 seconds.

John

You could also get one of these for your garage.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...garage_005.jpg

Everything in there belongs to him.........

Locks just keep honest people honest.

I refuse to use the deadbolt on the door between the garage and the house. If they get into the garage they'll get into the house (all the tools needed are in the garage, including the 6lb lead hammer in the trunk of the Cobra). I'd just as well not have the oak fire door (yes we have to have them) not broken all to h**l in the process.

One of our local CACC members (Jack Mogus, AKA BLACKJACK) responded to my post on the CACC site with this (granted he's a security expert). Thought it was worth sharing:

THANKS, DOUG. HOWEVER - - - - WITH REGARDS TO THAT PARTICULAR GARAGE - -

1. THE "HEADER DROP" (ABOVE THE DOOR) IS NOT NEARLY DEEP ENOUGH. SHOULD BE A MINIMUM OF FOUR INCHES. THIS CAN BE FIXED BY SCREWING A 2x6 TO THE BOTTOM OF THE EXISTING HEADER AND PAINTING IT TO MATCH.

2. THE DOOR IS IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED. THE "DOWN-STOP" MICRO SWITCH SHOULD BE MOVED FORWARD AT LEAST TWO INCHES IN ORDER TO FORCE THE DOOR AGAINST THE HEADER PREVENTING THE INSERTION OF THE WIRE.

3. THE FLEXIBLE VINYL "SEAL" THEY ARE USING IS DESIGNED FOR USE ON THE SIDES OF THE DOORS. THE TOP SEAL SHOULD BE MUCH NARROWER.

IF ANYTHE ABOVE DEFICIENCIES ARE CORRECTED THE INTRUDER WILL BE FOILED.

ALSO - - NEVER KEEP A COBRA (OR ANYTHING ELSE OF VALUE) IN A GARAGE WITH GLASS WINDOWS. QUICK & EASY SUGGESTION: SPRAY THE INSIDE OF THE WINDOW GLASS WITH WHITE KRYLON PAINT. IT OBSCURES THE VIEW FROM THE OUTSIDE AND WILL STILL LET IN SOME LIGHT.

**** MY GARAGE DOOR HAS A "WIDE-GAP MAGNETIC CONTACT". THE CONTACT TERMINALS ARE "SHUNTED" BY A RELAY OPERATED BY THE GARAGE DOOR OVERHEAD LITE. AS LONG AS THE OPERATING LITE IS ILLUMINATED THE DOOR CAN BE OPENED AND CLOSED.

**** I ALSO HAVE TWO PASSIVE INFRA-RED MOTION SENSORS IN THE GARAGE.

**** THE TIME DELAYS FOR THE GARAGE DOOR AND THE P.I.R.S ARE SET TO 90 SECONDS - - I NEED THE EXTRA TIME GET MY BUTT OUT OF THE COBRA AND OVER TO THE CONTROL PAD INSIDE THE PASSAGE DOOR.

**** A DEVICE CALLED A "FREQUENCY SLAMMER" IS FAR MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE "DUDE WITH A WIRE". A "SLAMMER" RUNS A STRING OF TRANSMITTED FREQUENCIES THROUGH THE FREQ. RANGE USED BY GARAGE DOOR OPENERS. IT CREATES AND VARIES A FREQUENCY MATRIX AND COMBINES THE SLIDING FREQUENCIES MATHEMATICALLY. IT "CROSS" THE FREQUENCY USED BY YOUR GARAGE DOOR OPENER AND OPERATES IT IN A MATTER OF A FEW SECONDS.

**** THE LOGICAL DEFENSE AGAINST A SLAMMER IS TO UNPLUG YOUR GARAGE DOOR OPENER IF YOU ARE GONE FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. I HAVE A SEPARATE AUDIO ANNUNCIATOR ON MY NIGHT STAND. IF THE GARAGE DOOR IS OPENED - BY ANY METHOD - IT WILL ALERT ME AND GIVE ME TIME TO LOAD A ROUND IN THE 12 GAGE CHAMBER AND GET TO THE FRONT OF THE HOUSE IN TIME TO INTRODUCE THE BASTARDS TO CHRISTIANITY IN THE FORM OF "00" BUCK SHOT.

Make sure you have a great insurance policy.

When I leave for any period of time; Opener is unplugged, latch to door is looked, car is on jack stands, steering wheel is taken off, and dog has free run of everything. Problem with the dog is they poison them. My sons dirt bike was stolen a couple years ago from our shed. They cut three locks to get to it and our dog was sick for three days!!!!!!! Little Fu##'s!!!!!!!!!
Scott

I have inner locks installed they would have to kick out the door pannels,no auto opening doors here not that lazy.

My solution...drilling two additional holes in the slider and secured with a zip tie. Cut zip tie when you need to disengage the door.


http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...Garage_Fix.jpg

Did you already do that, or did you just do it today? Good idea.

My friend read this post and said to me,

"On the other hand, if you are trying to sell your cars, don't worry about any break-ins. Just make sure your cars are insured to the max."

Well, I told him, I happen to like my cars and not interested in selling them.

Door locks only keep out the good guys.A thief will do what needs doing to get in.We have two tier protection,one of them involves a morgue.

One reason I have my garage door on the alarm system.....I know, I know, its not a gurantee, but it is another step to security. This is true, soooooo true.

My garage was hit in broad daylight while I sat in the chair at the dentist, cell phone in the truck. They pried open the walk-in door leaving no tool marks. This set off the door switch and the motion detector. The alarm company called me, (remember, phone in truck) then the police, who investigated but found no evidence of a break-in. When the alarm company finally got through to me they told me I had a false alarm. I told them that, in ten years I had never had a false alarm and hauled a$$ back home. I found a small back window broken and all the glass on the outside. This guy was hiding INSIDE while the police walked around the detached garage. I called the police, drew my .45 caliber friend and went inside to have a talk with my guest who had, alas, departed with about $800 of my tools. The police took prints but didn't hold much hope of catching him/her. The spooky thing was the thief had removed the lock from the overhead door track and hung it on the door, something I never do. Second visit?
Anyway, to make a long story longer, I have shimmed up the walk-in door with steel, added a heavy-duty dead-bolt lock, replaced the back windows with lumber and painted the front windows. All latch and hinge screws are now 4". I keep the house and garage locked up when I'm outside, even if it's just to mow the lawn. This was on the advice of the police officer who did a security checkof my property, at my request.
Bill Stradtner

Most door jambs are double 2 X 4s or 2 X 6s, mainly for vertical frame strength. Then the carpenters lines the opening with shimmed 3/4" thick pine or spruce boards. This is what the hinges and catch for the door lock are screwed to. I think TV shows are very accurate when they show a 200 lb. actor kick a door in or hit it with a shoulder. The screws just split the wood. Use longer screws into the framing, it just takes a couple more whacks. If you watch a karate guy show off breaking boards, he's using pine, which splits very easily. Think about what would happen if someone snuck in an oak board!

CSXDreamer is right,

Most door jams are the 3/4" thick pine. Behind that is a 2x4 trimmer and then a 2x4 king stud. If the door jam is shimmed excessivley because of a loose fit in the rough opening your screws may be too short. As a carpenter I find most of the entry doors on peoples homes do not have the reinforcing brackets and the 4" long screws installed in the strikes. They are provided with the better quality deadbolt locksets but I think that installers get lazy and discard them rather than install them. That leaves the 3/4" door jam and 3/4" screws to do the job. Easy break in. With the 4" screws you are bolted into the framing and that makes your door that much more secure. But we still have windows so anybody that knows how to break in will do it.

John

Doug,
Why all the SCREAMING!

Jack's Caps Lock key is broken ON. :LOL:

He always types in all caps - it's just his style.