Jag IRS

redmt · #1 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 04:22 PM

I'm collecting "stuff" for my Cobra. The kit isn't actually in sight yet but still I'm collecting "stuff". I have a lead on Jag rear ends and was wondering what I should be looking for and what a fair price should be? I'm also thinking that I might as well use the 428 I've had for years and the mechanical fuel injection set up I have. I'm starting to feel a little like Johnny cash but I guess I'd better start somewhere.

John

Tom Wells · #2 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 04:50 PM

John,

Here's a link to a post I put on my web site a while back dealing with the different Jag rears: http://www.firstcoastcobraclub.com/v...167&hilit=jag*

It will most likely give you more information than you ever wanted to know about identifying them

Alas, CWI has closed.

If you do get a Jag rear, you will be making a little bit of a choice, as all kit cars don't use the Jag rear. For example, the Factory Five uses a Ford 8.8 for its IRS. The ERA, Unique, Power Performance and a number of others do use the Jag.

Have fun with it, and most of all, build it your way!

Tom

Grubby · #3 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 05:41 PM

Check out my add in the for sale section. I have a complete Jag based rear that was built by ERA for a roller. ERA does mount their rears in a sub frame similar to what Jag used, but it could easily be mounted directly to the frame like Contemorary did.

Let me know if you want more details.

John

mickmate · #4 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 05:45 PM

The best width, ratio and type is the E-type Jag for some of the earlier type replicas, originals used a 3.54:1 but that is a little tiring for highway stuff unless you run a 5 speed in it. Do a search on what gear ratios people like here on CC. The other thing to look for is the two tags on the rear. One is the ratio the other is a BPL (British Posi Lock which is the LSD). If they are missing you can turn one axle and see if the other turns the same direction. You can also count ratios by turning the pinion and counting.
I would say a good used complete one should be in the 4-500 range. Good hunting.

Excaliber · #5 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 06:23 PM

I wouldn't even consider the mechanical fuel injection. Just go with a carb.

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 06:54 PM

Quit hoarding parts; hoard cash instead. When you have enough cash, then get your Cobra.

redmt · #7 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Quit hoarding parts; hoard cash instead. When you have enough cash, then get your Cobra.

I am the absolute king of domestic embezzlement,,,,,,,,,,

redmt · #8 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grubby

Check out my add in the for sale section. I have a complete Jag based rear that was built by ERA for a roller. ERA does mount their rears in a sub frame similar to what Jag used, but it could easily be mounted directly to the frame like Contemorary did.

Let me know if you want more details.

John

Never could find your ad. How about a link?

patrickt · #9 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redmt

I am the absolute king of domestic embezzlement,,,,,,,,,,

Seriously. Hoarding parts is dumb for two reasons: 1) The parts you hoard will most likely not work together in the car you finally choose. If you try and force them together, the car will look like it. 2) More likely, you will never get your Cobra. The moment will pass and more important things will come down the pike. You will then be stuck with a garage full of mishmash which you will then sell at a loss.

joyridin' · #10 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Seriously. Hoarding parts is dumb for two reasons: 1) The parts you hoard will most likely not work together in the car you finally choose. If you try and force them together, the car will look like it. 2) More likely, you will never get your Cobra. The moment will pass and more important things will come down the pike. You will then be stuck with a garage full of mishmash which you will then sell at a loss.

This is great advice. It seems like 50% of the parts you accumulate end up not fitting on the car you eventually purchase. Then you realize you had possibly thousands of dollars tied up in parts and you could have had your car a year earlier had you not spent the money on the wrong parts. Then, you have to try and unload the wrong parts to buy the correct parts and end up taking a beating on some of them.

Just save the money, buy the car, then get the parts. You'll be a lot more motivated and you'll end up with what you want, not what you are stuck with.

FIA-ERA · #11 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 07:39 AM

Now, now, guys I don't think "hoarding" parts is all that bad. NOW, you really have to know which car your planning on. I bought the very first part on my car 8 years BEFORE I ever had the car. I had the color ERA FIA brochure and pinned it up on my work space. When I found a deal, I bought it. I don't know how many times I wanted to sell the stuff I had collected but my wife said no. I do believe you need more than a lot of money to buy these cars but if your dedicated you can do it. There's no way I could have afforded some of the items if I hadn't bought them over time. This is just me and I was fortunate. Good Luck, Matt