Don't ever buy an ARP complete bolt kit

[undy]

Their FE kits are designed for iron block/heads and don't "fit" aluminum motors.

Aluminum heads/block motors are a different animal, especially with the intake bolts. The "crate bolt" ARPs just don't grab enough aluminum threads before they pull those few threads out. That's why I NEVER use bolts for my FE intakes. I custom make my own stainless studs. Since doing so I've never stripped an intake thread and it gives me attachment points for throttle linkages, halon systems and the like. They also stay torqued down better, requiring less after-the-job wrenching too. Leaking FE intake gaskets are now a thing of the past

[blykins]

ARP is way overkill for an external fastener. You don't need a valve cover bolt that's a 12 point 180ksi fastener. I reserve the ARP fasteners for the heavy duty stuff like mains, heads, etc. I also use their camshaft bolts and balancer bolts just because I like using new parts and those don't break the bank.

I have another source for stainless steel external fasteners that I use for every engine build. They are engine and option specific, come with a lot more, and are about $50 less.

[mreid]

Originally Posted by blykins

ARP is way overkill for an external fastener. You don't need a valve cover bolt that's a 12 point 180ksi fastener. I reserve the ARP fasteners for the heavy duty stuff like mains, heads, etc. I also use their camshaft bolts and balancer bolts just because I like using new parts and those don't break the bank.

I have another source for stainless steel external fasteners that I use for every engine build. They are engine and option specific, come with a lot more, and are about $50 less.

That is the best answer in this thread, yet!

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by blykins

ARP is way overkill for an external fastener. You don't need a valve cover bolt that's a 12 point 180ksi fastener. I reserve the ARP fasteners for the heavy duty stuff like mains, heads, etc. I also use their camshaft bolts and balancer bolts just because I like using new parts and those don't break the bank.

I have another source for stainless steel external fasteners that I use for every engine build. They are engine and option specific, come with a lot more, and are about $50 less.

You may remember that I had a broken oil pan bolt in 2009. It was a b!tch to get out - took me a week and a lot of pain and suffering.

I doubt that would have happened with ARP bolts......certainly not the norm, but just a thought.

[PatBuckley]

Originally Posted by undy

Their FE kits are designed for iron block/heads and don't "fit" aluminum motors.

Aluminum heads/block motors are a different animal, especially with the intake bolts. The "crate bolt" ARPs just don't grab enough aluminum threads before they pull those few threads out. That's why I NEVER use bolts for my FE intakes. I custom make my own stainless studs. Since doing so I've never stripped an intake thread and it gives me attachment points for throttle linkages, halon systems and the like. They also stay torqued down better, requiring less after-the-job wrenching too. Leaking FE intake gaskets are now a thing of the past

I take it you install the studs after the intake manifold is in place?

[undy]

Originally Posted by PatBuckley

I take it you install the studs after the intake manifold is in place?

Yes, it's no different than installing bolts. The studs allow me to use the entire depth of the threaded holes. I picked up a 3' length of stainless all-thread, cut each to fit and slotted the ends with a band saw for an easy install.

[RestoCreations]

Thanks for the tips. I will give ARP a call and see if they will work with me on the matter.