Oil filter threads

[Ant]

Originally Posted by Jac Mac

Chev/GM filter does not have an internal filter by-pass valve, Ford does.
Since yours is dry sump Ant all you have to do is flick the belt off & spin the pump by hand to pre lube, dont have to worry about keeping the battery drill charged up then

Jac Mac you are right I could take the belt off etc thats what I did when we dynoed the engine and used a speed brace, but its a bit inaccessible as my engine bay is quite crowded, I need a filter mount and it would make it easy to prime the engine on a more regular basis, mind you when my road car has done 500,000k of hard miles with no issues. I am thinking its only important when the block is dry.

Regarding filters I am going to use these Canton screw on filters
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=25-434
they have no bypass, flow 45 gpm and filter down to 8microns. As you mention I might be better to go for a Ford remote mount as I can use a variety of high performance Ford filters such as K&N etc, the small mounts are HP1, HP4 etc. I had a Fram HP6 mount and it was just massive so I got rid of it.

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by Ant

Jac Mac you are right I could take the belt off etc thats what I did when we dynoed the engine and used a speed brace, but its a bit inaccessible as my engine bay is quite crowded, I need a filter mount and it would make it easy to prime the engine on a more regular basis, mind you when my road car has done 500,000k of hard miles with no issues. I am thinking its only important when the block is dry.

Regarding filters I am going to use these Canton screw on filters
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=25-434
they have no bypass, flow 45 gpm and filter down to 8microns. As you mention I might be better to go for a Ford remote mount as I can use a variety of high performance Ford filters such as K&N etc, the small mounts are HP1, HP4 etc. I had a Fram HP6 mount and it was just massive so I got rid of it.

Ant, you know what I am like, go thru the Filter catalogue until I find what I want then make whatever I need!! The better catalogues show thread size/o-ring dia & overall length & dia, so you just pick whatever you can fit & go from there...as mentioned in above posts the larger thread sizes wont restrict flow & the larger dia Chev/GM O-Ring allows more holes on the outer side.

Dont think this deal you have lined up would work in the setups I run as it would have to pull the oil thru the pressure section of the dry sump pump, We go -tank, pump pressure, cooler, filter, motor... the critical bit is - tank, pump- which is the same way you have yours IIRC unless it uses an extra line to the tank or pan bottom to source oil from..[yep,looks like that is how they do it--more plumbing]

[Ant]

Jac Mac,

Do you tend to use the HP6 size?

The Peterson primer mount uses a -10 line from oil tank or engine sump.

I was going to do the pressure section to t/stat, oil cooler, filter to engine.
Changed to scavenge, cm inspection filter, canton t/stat, oil cooler - oil tank.
That way the filter and t/stat should route cold oil to tank to avoid a cooler failure on a cold engine, also I will be cooling oil and air so not ideal but I don't think oil temperature will be that bigger deal with alloy engine etc.