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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 11:20 AM
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Default Cooling Fan Controls

Ok guys,
I have 12vdc going through my fan to the common on the 3 position switch I installed. In one position (manual) it takes it to frame ground and the fan runs. In the other position it runs to a fan swith ( BWD WT359 ) the auto parts store sold me. I was told it would take the voltage to ground when the temperature got to the need of cooling and make the fan run.

This is not happening, but there is 12 volt on the wire connected to the spade and the brass body is grounded because I read 12 volt from the spade connector to the brass on the sensor.

Did they sell me the wrong thing or is it broken. The guage made it up to 220F before I cooled it manually.

Thanks
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:39 AM
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The BWD WT359 is a sending unit for a temperature gauge, not a switch.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:53 AM
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I swear people do not know their own parts do they? No wonder it doesn't want to work.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:59 AM
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The 12v you are reading is feeding through the fan motor. The high impedence of your meter makes it look like there is 12v at the switch, but it is actually on the positive side of the fan motor. Sounds like you just need the correct therm switch. Here's one:

Zirgo ZFSWF - Zirgo Temperature Control Switch-Sensors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:53 PM
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Wire it a little differently and the manual overide will work while the key is on and it will be off when the key is off UNLESS the temp has the switch in the cooling system closed, allowing the fan to run after shutdown UNTIL it cools down while parked. Then it will either come on during heat soak or shut off after cooling down. Best of both worlds.

PS: As stated below, use the circuitry to control a relay with the fan wired though the relay. A switch alone is not capable of carrying the current draw of the fan motor.
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Last edited by Rick Parker; 01-02-2012 at 04:09 PM.. Reason: Additional info
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:48 PM
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You might want to Google "cooling fan relay diagram" and look into running your circuit through a relay package.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:13 PM
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Thanks gents, a relay shall be installed if the sensor cannot handle the current.
I appreciate all of the quick feedback, but with 23 degrees around here looks like I have plenty of time to do it right lol.

Kirk
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:58 PM
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Smile fan diagram

Let see if I can post a picture of the diagram in my files.
Dwight

got it
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Last edited by Dwight; 01-02-2012 at 08:01 PM.. Reason: add pic
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:48 PM
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Dwight,
Is the Diode to keep the fan from back feeding 12v into the electrical system when the fan is freewheeling by the air traveling thru the rad when traveling at speed.
Tim
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:20 PM
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yes I think so. I did not install a Diode. I installed a light on the dash to let me know when my fan is running. At first I had a LED light but it would blink when I was driving down the road. The fan was not on but the wind spinning the fan blades would induce a low voltage into my dash light. I had to change it for a bulb type and the problem disappeared. I could have installed the diode.

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Last edited by Dwight; 01-03-2012 at 04:21 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:58 AM
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Check out Classic Chevy Truck Parts 47-59, Mark VIII Fand Relay Kits for the Mark IV fan relay kit. These kits will solve all your wiring problems.
Bill
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:19 AM
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I don,t get all the override switches and all....:virtually every car on the road today relies on an electric radiator mounted automatic fan switch to cool the radiator. The only reason one would require an override switch is because something is not right. Get it right and enjoy trouble free driving, traffic or not. Keeping it simple seems to be the hardest thing to do.
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