How can I improve this Cobra?
 

Perhaps a strange question for this forum but…

I have a 1995 ERA 427 S/C. It a beautiful dark metallic green with white stripes. It has stainless pipes (powder coated black for authenticity), Trigo pin drive wheels and it’s visually is the prettiest one I’ve seen. Nothing is broken. It always starts, never stalls, sounds great at every RPM, has great throttle response, and sounds better than it looks. Interior is perfect – like all ERAs.

Underneath, it has front and rear anti sway bars, Jag rear end w/3.45:1 rear gear. It has a Tremec TKO 5-speed. It’s being powered by a 1966 428 FE, with the 1966 PI aluminum intake, and 1968 CJ heads, and Holly 750 4bbl. Mallory ignition. Canton oil pan and remote oil cooler. It’s got the right LeMans valve covers and air cleaner.

Sure, I wish it had a side oiler with dual quads but that’s not gonna happen.

I don’t use it on the track. I’ve had it for one year. Yes, I know it’s not “real”, but it’s an extremely “stock” build (plus the CJ heads – but they are visually identical from the outside). I like that it is quite authentic and I wouldn’t want to do anything that would make it more obviously fake.

So again, it runs perfect but I can’t help but to continue to think of ways to make it better from a performance standpoint. I don’t know why I want to, but… you know the deal… What should I do that makes any sense?

I expect that many would say “don’t mess with it.”

Seems like new heads, intake and or cam would be logical upgrades. But seems like a shame to lose the 1966 PI aluminum intake and the 1968 CJ heads. That leaves the cam. As far as I know, it was a fairly stock rebuild on the engine, when it was recommissioned in 1995.

What would the effect of a more aggressive cam be?
Would I be asking for trouble by going down this path?
Easy or hard to do?

Again – currently it all works and drives perfect so I know this is nuts, but here I am…

I would be in this camp. Sounds terrific.

As you probably know, always consider the rear gear ratio, intake, cam and carb together, when exploring the HP possibilities.

Do you know the specs of the current cam?

Also, getting a nice set of magnesium Halibrand wheels will lighten the car up a bit. :D

Head work/intake work, camshaft.

You don't have to ditch the heads, but a well thought out port job would let the engine limber up a little bit.

A more aggressive cam does several things:

1. Moves the curves to the "right". This means that it takes away from the low end power, and depending on the head flow, can take away from the high end power as well...depending on how much more aggressive you go on the cam.

2. Makes the engine a little more "fussy" on idle and low end. This could result in making the engine harder to tune, making the engine "buck" when cruising in overdrive, etc.

If it were mine.....I would lean towards:

1. A deeper rearend gear. Since you have the OD, a 3.70-3.90 rearend gear would wake the car up quite a bit.

2. Head work/intake work.

3. If you wanted to get real deep in the engine, a stroker kit...

Keep in mind that with increased head flow, comes the ability for the cam to work a little easier. So look for a step up in where the peak horsepower rpm is.

change to Webers. The cam is probably about right for them and you will never regret to look and performance upgrades

I was able to track down the guy who rebuilt the engine in 1995. He obviously didn't have a detailed memory of the project (or paperwork). He thought it was fairly stock build - could still be the original cam for all I know. He said the car it came out of had been in an accident long ago and had very few miles. The engine was not siezed and didn't need "everything" replaced - I really don't have any more info unfortunately. I don't know how I could get any more information. The engine sounds thunderous - easily capable of setting off other people's car alarms.

For the wheels, I should check closer. The spinners say Halibrand, but I've been assuming they are not original Halibrand wheels. I should look again, but I thought they were Trigo.

If you're just looking for 'make work' to keep your hands busy and wallet empty-just leave it and drive it. The normal maintenance and trouble-shooting will be enough to keep you busy.
If you're a real go-fast guy and drag race or open track it (the 428 not good for that) there's lots to do. But a more aggressive cam alone (you'd need better springs and check p-to-v clearances) might get you 20HP if you pick smart. You'd need a coordinated plan of heads, cam, exhaust and intake-$$$ and a constant chase to get all running right.
You've got a 450HP combination now (if it's set up right) and would need another 100HP to ring your bell enough.
If your speed experience is good enough (power to weight ratios in the 5's), clutch is good, just buy another bullet-like a 600HP/482 from one of the quality builders on here and just swap it in. Sell your 428 on the FE forum. Then hang on.

this will make your car really standout

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...6/motor007.jpg

Those Webers do look awesome... are they fussy? How do they tend to affect performance and sound compared to a standard Holley 4bbl setup with stock FE intake?

You're not telling us anything about your mechanical experience level so we can help you. But your posts are. It's obvious that Webers are way beyond your current skill set if you think they look 'awesome' and ask how they sound and if they're fussy.
They're a thing you have to work up to and understand fuel curves and cam events to run. You may buy a set all set-up from a reputable builder (assuming the cam is compatible) but you will always have a long period of improving their drivability. Especially if your only experience is a single small Holley.
So tell us your experience and who built your ERA.

I'm not mechanic and have not rebuilt an engine. I co-own the car with my father who has rebuilt engines and knows his stuff pretty well. This my first car with an engine worth tweaking. I'm sure the Weber's are beyond my ability to manage but conversations like these are part of the learning process. I have no intentions of switching to Webers. I was just commenting that they look "awesome" - which they do.

My engine was build by a company called North East Motorsports out of CT. The company no longer exists.

Anyway - not trying to waste anyone's time. I was just curious about general thoughts on cams in FE blocks.

"How can I improve this Cobra? "

You could put in my name! :)

Yes, I would look closer. If they're on the dull side alot and need maintenance because they don't hold their shine for very long, then you may have magnesium Halibrands. :eek:

And as Chas will tell you, they're alot of hard work and a PITA. So, he thinks you should trade me straight across for my Trigos, unless they've been clearanced on the backspacing for the ERA rear end. Then I can't use them. :(

BTW, here's a wonderful book written by one of the best FE engine builders in the USA and he frequents here alot.

Amazon.com: How to Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines (Performance How to) (9781934709153): Barry Rabotnick: Books

Brent is another great engine builder, but he hasn't written a book.....yet. Not likely soon either, since he's expecting. :)

Avon tires...

i to would like to up grade some things myself however i can't seem to start my own threads for any discussion. i have tried to reach some of the moderators for help but no luck. suggestions? sorry to hijack the thread.

Relax Mg groupie---probably 99.9% of ERAs are built with Trigos or Vintages. :p
But we haven't been told who built this ERA yet.

When the CC homepage appears, see and click the 'Forums' button on the upper left. Select a forum you want to post in such as 'All Cobra Talk' or 'FE Forum' and select. Then when that opens look at the upper left for 'New Thread' blue button. Create your thread.

This ERA #434 was not built by ERA.The motor was built by Northeast Motorsports. The car was built by a meticulous man named John Buzutto who unfortunately passed away. But he kept detailed records of everything, which I have (not much on the engine though). It was then bought by Wayne Carrini of F40 Motorsports (Chasing Classic Cars show), who powder coated the pipes black and then sold it to his friend Herb Chambers (owner of many northeast car dealerships) for his private collection. I bought it from Herb, who had never registered it.

If it aint broken... Fix it till it is!!! :LOL:

I'd personally just leave it alone & enjoy... I'm of the less is more camp.

The most I might consider is swapping out the rear end to improve the "pick-up" so to speak.
If that wasn't enough then I might consider going to a lighter flywheel to get a more "aggressive/rev-veer" feel in the engine.

Plenty of fun can be had with 450-odd-horses. ;)

Either way, enjoy...

thanks era chas for that info!!!!!

actually Webers are pretty easy for anyone with average intelligence and determination. If you do not enjoy working on mechanical things then leave it alone, if you do, then you will have no problem figuring out Webers. I am not sure why some people make such a big deal about how difficult they are, I found it the most fun part of my Kirkham build.