Spinners Backwards?
 

I was attempting to take my wheels off for the first time since purchased in August per SPF Manual and one of the wings broke off the right rear spinner. After a few choice words to myself and sitting in disbelief, I noticed the broken wing had a 'L' stamped on the back side. I got a mirror and checked the others and the front right also has an 'L' and the two left sides have an 'R' stamped on them.
I am assuming that I now should be attempting to remove them backwards from the manuals direction.

Dennis Olthoff explains here.

Superformance Cobra, Daytona Coupe and GT40 Wheel Care - YouTube


crASH

James,
I believe the L on the right and R on the left refer to left hand and right hand threads respectifully. IE, turn to the left to tighten the one on the right and turn right on the drivers side
Maurice

they loosen toward the front of the car

Thanks guys. I do understand the top of spinners loosen towards the front. I thought maybe the spinners were on the wrong side and needed to come off backwards, if that is even possible.

James
An easy way to remember is, no matter what side of the car you are looking at the spinners tighten towards the trunk.

Stu.

Did you manage to get one off?

What kind of hammer were you hitting the spinner with?

You might want to ditch the crappy aluminum spinners and go for stainless steel ones from CobraRacing.com Hubs and Accessories

http://www.cobraracing.com/Images/XP2004sp_800.jpg

Ass tight.

I did get them all off after using Liquid Wrench and waiting a couple of hours and I used Cobra Valley's 6 lb Muther Thumper.
The one that broke did so on the only the fourth hit with somewhat medium force. The others were hammered even harder with no breakage.

I will probably replace just the one spinner from Trigo right now, but will be looking very strongly at the polished stainless ones when I have more funds. Do you know if the ones from Cobraracing fit the Trigo wheels on an SPF. Looks as if they have a pretty good price for the stainless, too.

I have them on my ERA, and I know they fit the Shelby hubs as well. I don't think I've heard of different hub thread sizes between ERA/CSX/SPF/Kirkham so I would bet they're all the same.

I went with the stainless spinners just to avoid the problem you had with the wing breaking off. Was on a cruise last year when one of the folks broke the wing off the spinner on his Daytona Coupe.
If you're going to go with the polished look have George polish them when you order. Got mine unpolished and decided I wanted the polished look and beat myself to death trying to polish them myself and ended up sending them back to be polished by George.
DonC

Proceed with caution when swapping spinners between different wheel sets. While the threading on the hubs may be compatible, the depth of the engagement of the threads on the spinner and the angle of the contact surfaces between the spinner and the wheel differ. Swapping spinners can be done but it is important to do your homework before purchasing replacements. For example, there are important differences between Trigo’s, WAW1 & WAW2 wheels and their spinners for example. Regarding Vintage Wheels, and the interchangeability of hubs and spinners, I have no accurate data, so I won't comment, but would like to add info from knowledgeable sources to my info collection.
If you broke your spinner pounding it in the wrong direction, or relied only on beating a frozen spinner off without trying a few other options, breaking it is understandable. Be sure to inspect the threads and bearing surfaces for damage before reinstalling. Totally clean all surfaces of any old anti-seize compound and re-lubricate all bearing surfaces with anti-seize compound. Dennis Olthoff's video regarding spinner installation is spot-on. The proper hammer is important and over tightening is not necessary. Safety wire will not prevent a spinner from coming off. It only acts a marker to identify a possible problem - and only IF you check them regularly.

Depending on how you use your car, you may want to stick with the aluminum spinners. Going to the stainless steel spinners will increase your unsprung weight, which is something you try to avoid if you race your car.

And Blas is correct, not all spinners are the same even if the threads are. Buy what is specific for your wheels.

Thanks Blas and Silverback51 for your advise and help. I spoke to a Trigo rep who was also very helpful to me before I was able to read the latest posts. I ended up ordering an aluminum replacement from Hillbank. Michael at Hillbank was great in making sure I got the right spinner ordered.

Replacement spinner was ordered on Monday night and delivered today, Friday. Perfect match with my others. Michael at Hillbank took good care of me on this order.

This thread is timely as many of us including myself are doing maintenance before the driving season. Today I had to remove the RF Trigo Knock off on my PS FIA Wheels to adjust a wheel bearing. It had not been off for over 3 years (no flaming please). It was initially stuck and didn't want to move. I had used anti sieze liberally during assembly. I wacked on all three ears equally with a 3 lb sledge and an 18" piece of Oak Wood and then broke out the propane torch and used it discretely. It did my heart good when it started to move. "Note to self"... remove knockoffs yearly.

I remove mine two to three times a year for cleaning and/or maintance.

And a little anti-seize on the threads and mating surface helps too. Don't put too much on it's nasty stuff to clean up.