04-23-2012, 04:27 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
|
|
Not Ranked
Without any info
JBCOBRA JB without any info 6,000 rpms. This is with a cast crank bottom end
If the motor is 4 bolt main or has a main support plate with cast crank 6,200. For a forged crank 6,500 rpms. The golden rulke is 500 rpms pass your max HP reading. After this you are just wasteing gas and motor. Strokers don't need to be twisted to 7,000 rpms. The reason for a stroker is more BOTTOM end power. It's about matching the motors power band to the car and your driving. Where the car will be the fastest is 1,000rpms below max torque reading and 500 rpms over max HP readings of the dyno. Change the rearend ratio or the transmission ratios. It's cheaper than rebuilding a motor that has to be overrevved and doesn't need to be. I run stroker motors and run wide ratio trannies and low ratio rearends. I have run a 3.31 jag rear for 15 years and with the power of a new stroker will drop down to a 3.08 or 07. ratio The motor has 600ft of tork at the bottom end. Rev limit is 6000 with hydro lifters and some tricks done. You need to be 100% sure you have an OILING SYSTEM than can handle 7,000 rpms. What you read on the gauge IS NOT what is at the other end of the motor. There can be from a 10-40psi drop in pressure. Run a HVHP oil pump with an 80# spring and 15-40 oil for racing 10-30 is too thin IMO for any abusive driving or idling. Give it time to warm up before driving. This is the number 1 problem people have with there car and not waiting until heat is built up in the motor and oil is in the 140F temp range. Rick L.
|
7000 rpms
Hybrid Mode
