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First bonehead mistake. Need advice.
I'm surprised it took me this long, but I made my first significant bonehead mistake this evening. I was drilling a grommet hole with a nice, new, sharp 15/16" hole saw, and the pilot bit drilled a hole in the hard AN -8 fuel line I didn't realize ran right behind the panel. As you can see in the photo below, it runs between the frame and bonded panels, and it also runs through several tight spots including above the rear suspension. As much as I would take the time and trouble to bend and flare a new one, I'm not even sure it's feasible. I can probably (but not easily) cut out the damaged section of line. Any advice on the best approach to repair this without replacing the whole line would be appreciated.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5473/9...316f386c_c.jpg Mod note - fixed image link - CW |
Ugg... that sucks.
Maybe replace that with some -8 SS braided teflon line. |
I agree with Dallas on this one. That is a fuel line and the work and few dollars it will cost now to replace the whole line is cheaper than replacing a burned up car later on. Remember these cars shake a lot and I never was one for patching a piece into a fuel line. If I had one that I couldn't get the old one out, I just cut it off at the ends and ran a new one in a way that I could get to it if needed later on.
Ron |
I agree with Ron, you can just abandon or remove the old line (as much as possible) and install a new one, it's kind of what they do with buried pipelines...... but this ain't no buried pipeline.
Most importantly, relax, have beer and tell yourself...Hey I really installed that grommet in the perfect place, too f-in bad the gas line was in the wrong spot, I'll have to move it. Cheers! Bill |
I also agree with Bill and Ron, fuel lines is not something you patch up. don't want to be crude but, sometimes we need to suck our mistakes and re-do things. Been there done that buddy.
Be thankful that you noticed this before you were on a cruise or a normal run...could have been disastrous and worse that that deadly. We are here with you! Lou |
Disconnect original line at the tank and either remove and replace it with another line, or leave it in place and reroute another line from the tank to the engine compartment.
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depends on how long the line is, how difficult to replace, if you can make a clean cut with a tubing cutter, does the line need to be someplace else now that something else is going to be run through the grommet...
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Two words.. Duct tape. Just joking of course.
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If I replaced the whole line, front to rear, with a braided teflon AN line, is there any problem with that (aside from the cost)? I think that would be more realistic than hard line, and I also could use one continuous piece to go from the filter at the tank all the way to the pump at the engine without additional fittings.
Either that, or my son suggested "glue." Thanks! |
Quote:
The teflon lines are pricey but they hold up better to today's fuels. I've seen some other braided line rot pretty quickly. If the line runs through a bulkhead, use a grommet so vibration won't rub a hole in it. John |
Just put some tape around it ..:):):)......................not.....
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Definitely replace with teflon line.
If you have to go through a bulkhead, and you have the option, your first choice should be a bulkhead fitting (for the same reason you are replacing the line). If you don't have the option of using the bulkhead fitting solution then the grommet is the next best fall back. Shop around for your line. Some manufacturers have a very stiff line that will buckle as you attempt to bend it. Others have a more flexible version of the same product that can tolerate bends more readily. Ask before you buy. Map out your fuel line path for the least bends and choose the best vendor you can to meet your pathing solution and of course remember the Kinghts Templar's words of wisdom to Indy as he pondered his choices for the Holy Grail - Choose wisely! Ed |
So I tore out the hard line and it looks like I may have gotten lucky. When ERA passes the fuel line through the frame above the rear suspension, they don't just drill a hole in the frame. They weld a tube inside the frame so it's smooth. It's barely large enough for a piece of -8 AN braided teflon hose to pass through, which is good. So I plan on running a new braided flex tube from the filter at the tank all the way to the pump at the engine, with no intermediate fittings. I'll clamp it down using the padded Aeroquip clamps and add a shrink wrap tubing where it passes through the frame, for extra safety.
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Fuel Line
I am not a fan of replacing sections of fuel line as has been mentioned, even though our cars have plenty of other fittings and components that can potentially leak.
How long is the hard line section, as I would replace it with same hard line or use a good quality flexible line designed for fuel. |
Lol, I thought I was the only one that did stupid sheet like that! No big deal in the grand scheme it won't matter run a new line.
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Measure it first with a micrometer:, then mark it with a crayon, Then cut it with an axe.:JEKYLHYDE
JD |
New fuel line in. Even though I probably didn't need to, I added rubber padding from McMaster Carr in several spots.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5525/9...4153c722_c.jpg |
Good for you...onward and upward! You'll probably be on McMaster Carr's Christmas card list before this is over.
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Those little extra rubbers stop rattles..........:)
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I have a teflon line for my clutch slave cylinder. I had an electrical issue which made pinholes in the line. I replaced it once without understanding what happened and it did it again.
Having teflon line buried in the frame may cause the same problem. I'd rather have the line under the body so any leaks will fall to the ground, not collect in the frame. Granted, my condition is peculiar, but it happened. |
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