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Old School 427 or Modular 5.0?
After 5 months of research I have finalized my decision on everything including color with one exception.
Go with a 427W or a new 5.0 Aluminator. I love the look and the sound of the 427. But I am not a mechanic and want decent in town manners. I really like the aluminator 5.0 option but it lacks the character/sound of a 427. I guess my question is....Can a 427 be reliable and have decent drivability? Would an EFI eight stack system make it easy to drive around town or am I just dreaming? Opinions welcome. Thanks |
427w or 427fe?:confused:
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427W please
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You can pick how easy a driver the 427 is. I personally have no problems with around town driving with my 480rwhp carbed 427w.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKUV7...e_gdata_player http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKUV709DxHo Go watch some videos on YouTube, or better yet, find someonein your area to take you for a ride! |
I love the Winsdor, it is such a powerful engine when built right and the price can't be beat, plus the sound is orgasmic... I love the Windsor, did I say that yet.:D Very very reliable engine, nobody can argue that...
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Thoughts about the eight stack or similar type EFI? |
An 8 stack efi would drive like a dream, carb will just keep the cost down a bit, Blykins on here builds tons of Windsors that are monsters, he just finished one that will be posted in an engine magazine and the owner is a member here, PM him, i'm sure he would love to talk about his engine, forgot his name, someone will know who I mean...;)
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I have considered switching to efi, but it seems like a lot of the systems are extremely finicky....which kind of defeats the purpose. |
Old school 427 FE
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A Windsor engine of any displacement can be built to be extremely reliable, dependable, and easy to drive around town in all conditions. You need to pick a good engine builder, clearly define your goals, and pay the right price for quality parts.
For daily driver qualities, EFI is definatly the way to go. Even a Harley doesn't come with a carb any more. Of course, EFI doesn't come cheap. Spend the right amount of bux to get what you want. No need to get stupid about it, but don't try and cheap out, either. An 8 stack can be a little tricky. They look great, and perform great. But they do require a little more maintenance than a single throttle body. Not much, but some. And you need to be prepared for that. Also, the engine needs to be built around the 8 stack system. You can't just take the average engine and drop the 8 stack manifold on top of it, and expect it to perform at it's best. So if you're going to use that system, do it from the beginning. |
What Bob said. Tuning, tuning, and more tuning. But when it is right it will run like a striped A$$ Ape.
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Any Windsor can be made to be as docile and well-mannered as a Modular engine.....with only one exception....it will have tons more horsepower and torque.
Even with a mild cam and sequential or TBI, it would still have gobs of horsepower and torque and would be dead-reliable for you. |
Depending on the kit, there may be some extra hidden costs and hassles going with a modular motor. You may have to modify foot boxes, mounting/bracing points and source custom headers etc...
It may just be cheaper and easier to go with the Windsor, its a recipe that has been done successfully many times over. On the other hand, if you had a desire to be adventurous, then may be the Mod motor would accommodate that pursuit a little more... Either way, the car will probably be overpowered compared to most any other car on the road. |
... not to mention "yes, it's a 427 just like the fender badge says" :)
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Thanks for the feedback. I already own two high hp supercharged modular motor cars. They are great and I like the reliability but I am wanting something different to add to the stable.
Your answers suggest that I can get what I need in a 427W. Appreciate the feedback. Now just need to get the additional garage space added to the house first and then order the car & engine. |
Do it right the first time. The only reason to go non modular is low end torque, if you go pushrod go big block. I have had two small blocks, one a 427 stroker you quickly grow out of the hp and a constant desire for mor low end torque.
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I'd build 527ci with a Shelby block and their big bore option. That's "old school" (i.e., no substitute for cubic inches). :cool:
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MJ
I am the guy fordracing65 was refering to (I think), I had the same issue as you on the new car. IMO your situation is easier since you already have 2 modern powerplants, its a Cobra kit-I would go with the old school approach given that you already have the other 2 cars. Go with a high quality hydraulic set up and you won't have any issues. As for the FI vs Carb debate...I like the carb because they are simple and fixes are easy. FI problems require a lot more diagnostics and equipment to fix-the juice wasn't worth the squeeze for me but I'm sure many will disagree. Jay is putting the final touches on the new car now so I'll be updating as soon as it gets here:D |
I was on the fence about this as well until I measured the size of a modular motor and decided I really do like my knuckles. It is bigger than a 385 series motor, except in length and does not deliver the gut wrenching pull of a 385 series.
I am going W on my build. 9.5" deck, 4 1/8" bore, 3.85" stroke. Should motivate my car pretty well and be very reliable. For me, it ended up about having enough room in the engine compartment to work on it without losing a pint of blood every time I turned a wrench. It also affords me the option to open the foot wells up a bit more. Your decision should be driven by your own criteria, as your criteria may not be equal to others. |
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