Hauling my SPF
 

I've bought a trailer to tow the SPF, and I'm getting conflicting info on strapping the Cobra to the trailer.
I have had some to say it is o.k. to use the lower control arms, and others say no. I would like to use the straps that go through the rims, but fear it will damage the rim finish.
For info it is an open trailer, with tie downs.
Appreciate any advice I can get with those who tow their Cobras.

Thanks in advance
Benny

I use the factory tow rings that are welded to the frame. Two straps in front and two straps in back.

Varmit I used to transport exotics and I wouldn't trust the frame rings. The best way is thru the wheels or over the tires. With the wheels but some detail towels and protect the rim. The best way is over the tires with straps. I've held a h2 hummer in place like that. Gonna cost you a couple of hundred for the straps and e track and an afternoon setting up the trailer. PM me With an e mail address and I'll send the details. Tom

Originally posted this back in September 15th 2005, and again in January of 2007, and again in April of 07, 2008, 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 (perhaps NOW it should be included in the FAQ section http://www.ffcars.com/forums/images/...1_rolleyes.gif

I tie my Cobras (along with every other car I tow) down as follows (all using 10,000lb rated tie downs, ratchets, and axle straps as you can never be too careful/cautious):

Front: Short padded axle strap around the outside of the lower control arm closest to the wheel assembly. Front left to Front left tie down loop, front right to front right tie down loop.

Rear: Short padded axle strap around axle tube as close to the center section as possible. Crossed in the rear to prevent movement of the car once strapped down. Left rear to right rear tie down loop, right rear to left rear tie down loop.

On IRS cars I use the same pattern on the front, but use a long padded axle strap around and through the rear wheel, also in a cross pattern as stated above.

Also, Once loosely tied down, I take the car out of gear and take the handbrake off. Once tied down tightly, I reset the emergency brake just to be on the safe side, but still leave the car out of gear as the rocking motion/movement of the car on the trailer will cause unnecessary wear of the internal gear set of the transmission over time.

Since originally posting the above in 2005, a lot of the commercial auto haulers have switched to "E" tracks such as these below.


E track system

http://www.truckntow.com/images/prod...dium/TH004.jpg

And

this one

http://www.truckntow.com/images/prod...dium/TH003.jpg

If you order from this company you need to specify whether you have the "E" track or the "I" track setup so that the clips are oriented properly.

Bill S.

Thanks guys

I believe SPF uses the frame rings to ship across the ocean. Sometimes the obvious is the best and the easiest.

The "tow rings" are not used for the ocean transport. In fact the SPF chassis have no tires when shipped, they are bolted to steel shipping cradles that allow the chassis to be stacked four to a container.

The "tow rings" are intended for recovery towing and not for tie down. To use them for long periods of time with loads pulling front and rear is asking a lot. It is best to use tire straps, second choice is axle straps to the front and rear control arms with one set of ratchets "crossed" to prevent side walking.

Pictures of shipping here: https://www.facebook.com/TimeMachine...type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/TimeMachine...e=1&permPage=1

I use axel straps to hold my rear end down by going over the rear axels (left axel tied to the right floor anchor and right axel to the left floor anchor) so that I am actually criss crossing the pumpkin. In the front I go over lower control arms and criss cross them as in the back. I have been doing this for over 14 years and NOTHING has been bent or distorted. The straps actually pull against the outside of the lower frame.

I have towed my cobra and coupe from Tulsa to Road America, Hastings Neb, Baton Rouge LA, St. Louis, MAM in Iowa, Dallas and College Station etc. plus the usual trips to Hallett here in Tulsa. Never a problem with movement of the car.

I have a bigger concern with forgetting to strap down my tool box or jack than movement of the car while in transport. Good luck with your haul.

Clois Harlan

Don't forget to put the trannie in neutral after you tie the car down.

Dwight

recovery? is it a jeep? my spf installer told me they are used for tie downs, this was the old dynamic motorsports I believe at one time the largest spf dealer in the country. I am sure they used 7018 weld rod, that is 70,000lb per each square inch of weld. you could drag the car across the country with no wheels and the hook would not break. if you don't trust the hook don't trust the frame as they are made the same

I recently hauled my SPF from Illinois to Florida. Rented a flat open trailer from U-Haul. I followed their suggestion-----ratchet tie down over the tires. Did all four tires. Easy to do and worked like a charm. The car didn't budge. Just remember-----periodically check to make sure the straps remain tight. As an afterthought, consider covering the car with a tarp/cover during transit. It keeps the bugs off the car, helps protect the finish, and hides what's underneath! Safe travels to you.

Does the wind cause the cover/tarp to damage the paint?????

tarp
 

YES ! The tarp flapping in the wind will damage the surface its hitting.
Drive uncovered. Store covered.

Maybe build a wind diverter for the front of the trailer .

The Nut:MECOOL:

call incognito transportation and get it shipped enclosed. I doubt you save anything when you add up fuel cost and trailer rental

The frame is not being pulled in two different directions and more importantly the "tie down" rings are welded to the frame and have a 45 degree angle bend that is often put in a bending situation depending upon the angles of your straps.
The tow rings are required in some countries and therefor are included with the chassis. Short haul across town? Fine, long haul over bad roads, no thank you.

Do what you want, but we prefer the frame or control arms to attach to (yrmv).

The tow loops shouldn't be used for a tie down. My preference for our cars is wheel straps. Faster, more secure, and the car rides on it's own suspension. On an open trailer like Varmit's I can be tied down and on my way in ten minutes without trying to slide my Slovak butt around grabbing axle straps and getting the ratchet arranged. You may do what you want but transporting cars for ten years helps with figuring out the best way to do this. Tom

Thought I'd respond to the comment regarding possible damage by use of a cover during transport--------I didn't have any damage whatsoever. I pulled the car almost 1200 miles and there wasn't even any dust on it! BUT, I should pass along that I used two covers. The first was a soft fleece, form fitted cover made for the SPF. The second was a heavy duty canvas tarp, which was much larger than the car. This allowed for the tarp to be secured at many points to prevent flapping. I cruised between 50 - 60 mph and had no issues, except for a flat trailer tire 2 miles from my destination!

I've got two car covers, one for the inside of the garage, just for dust mostly, and the other an outside cover, may try using both to see how it works out.

I would highly suggest you listen to people when they tell you to not tow with a car cover on, unless it is in an enclosed, weather tight trailer.


Bill S.

Take Bill's advice. I've towed my cobra in enclosed trailer with a cover, open, never a cover. His tiedown method is the one I use. Never a problem.