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My clutch price was based off me doing the work. A new pressure plate and friction element is $350. Flywheel can be resurfaced. My labor hrs are free. I spoke to my buddy he had $3500 in Porsche parts but that included a new flywheel for $900. I have never had to replace a clutch but get the summit catalog and see the price of the parts. Let see I paid Lexus $1900 for valve cover gasekts, and timing belt. I paid them because I dont want to screw with a Lexus due to the the multitude of electrical connectors i always break etc. To remove the valve covers on a Lexus you have to remove the coil packs, throttle body, intake pipe and about 60 bolts and screws, on a Cobra its 5 screws!!!
Hey if you want to pay me $80K plus for a roller like Kirkham I will give you customer service only a 21 year old playboy bunny could compete with!!! |
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Parts for a "new clutch" will be around $300-500 (OR MORE depending on the clutch), plus at minimum resurfacing of the flywheel for $75-100 at the machine shop. That's no labor on the actual clutch install. So $400 to $600 before the labor kicks in. A new clutch+labor should be budgeted for roughly $800. Hopefully less. Now a new trans on a 10k mile car that was driven by some old guy that grinds gears constantly or who rests his arm on the shifter non-stop is another grand for a rebuild. Then the rear diff that's shot from doing half-assed burnouts. There goes another $300 in parts or more with fluid plus labor. Lets call it $500. New tires, not some used rubber from the junkyard or 1960's tech tires, but good tires, mounting and balancing at a shop that doesn't scratch the wheel and who can deal with knockoffs properly, there goes another $1200. Replace various bushings and suspension components as needed, $500 with labor. THe oil pan is leaking after 10k miles. New gasket + oil change at $250. Carb needs a thorough rebuild and tuning after putting crap ethanol fuel in it. Another $300. Just tuning for better driveability will get you close to that $300 number. Brake job, just the pads, we will spare the rotors this time, $250. An annoying squeak that needs to be tracked down, $50. It was an easy fix. Why is the fuel gauge not working? Well, there goes another $250 with the sending unit replacement. All of the above can and should at least be CONSIDERED and BUDGETED for at 10,000 miles on these cars. Sorry, that's the truth. Search the Superformance, Backdraft, hell, any forum and look at the problems that creep up. It's great that you could never possibly see putting $5,000 in to one of these cars upon purchasing, but you are avoiding reality for what many owners will face when purchasing a relatively high(er) mileage Cobra/kit/replica/classic/etc. Labor will obviously vary upon region/area. The $5,000 I suggested earlier was just a real rough number, but hopefully you at least realize why that number isn't all that far out there. |
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Dude if you buy a car that has all those things go wrong with it in 10k miles either you need glasses or your name is hard luck Charlie.... Kevin..... |
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You can add water pump, fuel pump, odd electrical issues, cooling system, perhaps even major engine/oil consumption issues, etc to that list if you really wanted to. Either way, if you are buying a 10k mile Cobra, they are items that one would most certainly want to BUDGET for. I'm not saying that those items WILL need to be addressed, just to make sure you budget under the assumption that they might need to be addressed. Or tell someone to buy a car and promise them that nothing will be wrong with it and everything will be perfect. (pretends first and second page of Superformance/Backdraft forum don't exist) |
Can you resurface an aluminum flywheel?
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MadMaxx
Do you care to elaborate on the 22 issues that needed sorting? It would be interesting to see what a shop would charge for 22 items. And 1.5 quarts in 3k miles isn't something that a new owner should at least investigate (even if it turns out to be "normal")? http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/supe...rted-spfs.html Is your name, by chance, Charlie? |
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I will list every prob I sorted. Bdr/SPF
1) turn signal mechanism wire pinched between column and dash 2) pinched ignition wire to ignition module - a biatch to find after 3 igniton modules fried 3) oil temp gauge - I May have broke 4) eratic tach reading -wired wrong 5) Ebrake adjustment-all cars 6) oil pressure drop under high rpm - mellon oil pump loose clearance 7) water pump backing plate coolant leak- piss poor design from Ford 8) thermostat housing leak- orig owner never retorqued 9) paint / fiberglass on one panel 10) wrong motor mounts on both SPF oltoff only right mount to use 11) fuel gauge reading wrong - sending unit needed adjusted 12) valve cover gasket leak- orig owner never torqued 13) intake manifold leak- orig owner never torqued 14) rear diff leak, never fixed small drip one drop a week at worst 15) clutch slave cylinder replacement / alignment on all $15.00 part 16) exhaust header gasket leak orig owner never torqued 17) convex mirror on fender mirror to make functional 18) brake booster vacuum source shared with PVC . Changed to dedicated source 19) carburator way out of adjustment - no cost - just one engine. Blykins refused to sale me a new one until I tried adjusting this one. Wouldn't take my money, he was right. 20) extremely tight throttle return spring set up. Spring mounted to wrong boss could barely push pedal! 21) door latch rattle, tightened two screws. 22) clutch pedal would not rock freely on mount very annoying used Drexel to countour so it would rock on mount without "snagging" 23) oil pressure sending tube popped out and leaked oil everywhere. Replace with braided line 24) terminal broke on coil. Wire didn't come out, terminal didn't come loose it broke in half. Freaky as it had slack in wire. Cosmetic issues 1) headlight bezels, license plate light rust through chrome. Must not have used nickel before chroming 2) side pipe ceramic coating rust bloom 3) wood steering wheel polyurethane flaking. Prob from use Zero transmission, suspension or rearend problems, never a vibration prob. Better than my lexus! Some took 20 minute other took 60 hrs. |
As far as oil consumption anything over 1k miles on a carbureted engine and in my opinion I don't care as long as it doesn't get worse. I never had an engine I was ever worried about oil consumption.
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At that point, I would say $5000 might be a little low on the budget side. |
lol, i havent bought gas for my daily driver in 2 years. I have an electric car. It is obvious the original poster, Ace, is not a cobra guy but wants the thrill, experience, and thumbs up from the old timers. And that is fine. And he should skip baby steps and get the best body with the best baddest engine. i not.he will always lust for the Kirk orCSX.at.every.car show
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I believe I saw somewhere he hasn't purchased one yet.
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I would trade my entry level electric car for a Tesla. Who wouldn't? Like asking a FFR owner if he/she wants to trade straight up for a Kirkham or CSX.
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Hi, Ace, it is in no way a disrespect to you and your future purchase but to me a "Cobra guy/girl" is a person who craves a pure driving experience- a light body roadster, fat tires, brute horsepower engine and more power, loves the smell of gasoline, hot sun beating down, wind in your hair, bugs in your teeth and sweat down your neck. It is a motorcycle on 4 wheels.
Go to any car show and the Kirkham & CSX owners always have the biggest crowds around them. They are simply the best of the fakes and if you fall in love with Cobras, you are going to lust for an aluminum body Kirk, CSX or original. Thats just American, always upgrading, either cars, houses, wives, etc. I doubt you will trade from SPE or BDR to a FFR home build. Good luck on your future purchase. As for me, I am still on the fence buying used or just wait for a BDR GT3 GT carbon fiber body with an electric motor that sounds like a chevy! Best, NYG |
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