Need shop air compressor recommendations

[Bernica]

I've been through many for my garage and finally went with the IR T-30...

2-stage
240v
5 HP
14.7 CFM @ 175 PSI (it cuts off at 175)

Then I piped the garage from it to give me outlets in various places and made sure I used a good oil / water separator setup with a regulator just after the compressor outlet. Make sure you mount it on rubber pads and bolt it to the floor well and use a flex hose connector as shown in the pic.

It is more than adequate. But is wasn't $800 either. Probably my last compressor.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Bernica

I've been through many for my garage and finally went with the IR T-30...

2-stage
240v
5 HP
14.7 CFM @ 175 PSI (it cuts off at 175)

Then I piped the garage from it to give me outlets in various places and made sure I used a good oil / water separator setup with a regulator just after the compressor outlet. Make sure you mount it on rubber pads and bolt it to the floor well and use a flex hose connector as shown in the pic.

It is more than adequate. But is wasn't $800 either. Probably my last compressor.

Gee, that almost seems like a big block when a small block would be more than adequate...

[mikeinatlanta]

I have a 5hp, 230 Volt, 30 gal, belt driven, cast iron, two cylinder CH and have one really big regret. I find that I often need a two stage. Two stage will be more able to support high CFM items like my blast cabinet, paint sprayers, and my DA sander, It really sucks having to switch out between corded and air DA due to lack of air. Tanks size matters for about 30 seconds of tool usage. For my blast cabinet it's one minute on and three minutes off for recharge.

[bwcobra15]

Originally Posted by Derald Rice

A suggestion if your shop is attached to the house (mine is attached) :

My wife used to complain about me leaving the compressor on through the night, and it would cycle on, waking her up. It really never bothered me, I can snore through anything.

Then I had my compressor circuit wired through a relay from an overhead light circuit. When I turn the lights off, the compressor cannot cycle on.

It has worked flawlessly, and wife is much happier now.

As for a compressor recommendation, stay away from the oil less, and get as big a unit as you can fit or afford.
I have a 80 gal IR, it is going on 15 years with no issues.

Fortunately for me, the garage and workshop is detached. Its my man cave escape pod. Heat/AC, U-Verse digital TV, stereo, internet.

I do intend on putting the compressor in an insulated closet or out shed. not sure yet. It depends on the farthest hose run I can do.

[David Kirkham]

Originally Posted by razerwire

I have went through compressors of all types and brands. I have found I use my air tools less and less, battery powered tools have taken over. If you wand to buy once, cry once I have a screw compressor that has been running 10 to 11 hours a day min, 5 days a week min. for over twelve years at truss plant. It has been so trouble free I put one in my home garage, but I find it easier to use battery tools. FWIW

I have to say I second this.

Davis

[bwcobra15]

I do use the heck out of my Ryobi 18v lithium drill and driver. My employer also sells Milwaukee tools and i'm looking at some of those.

As for the air compressor, I'm leaning towards this unit:

Husky 80 gal. 3 Cylinder Single Stage Electric Air Compressor-C801H - The Home Depot

Its a little above my budget but I think more is better than less at this point. I may want to add a blast cabinet to the shop at some point, and use a sand blaster outside.

[Bernica]

Trust some of the guys who have replied above. A screw compressor is way good, but out of most guy's budget. A blast cabinet will work your compressor hard, this I know. As far as the Home Depot stuff, not for me.

[Detroit Bill]

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/newr...reply&t=132369

Cast iron, reasonable size, good size air filter, reputable name. You should be able to get parts for it forever.

You really have to ask yourself what you are going to do with the compressor.
Drills, drivers, nailers, wrenches really don't use that much air.
Sanding, grinding, sand blasting all hammer a compressor.

With a DA sander you will feel fine if the pressure drops but as it does it will begin to leave swirls that will show their face when you go to finish. You need running pressure, pressure in the line before the tool with it sanding over time. You set the regulator by that pressure. We have an inline gauge we put in to test at each station.

You said you are running line. Beware long distances and small ID lines.
If you are running any distance you need a larger "main" There are pressure and volume drop over distance. If you can make your air lines run in a circle feeding off the circle it is the best solution. Finally the hose to the tool. Running a 100' 1/4" i.d. hose before a sander is a disaster, might work with a wrench but you will likely lose force and speed. You are better running a reasonable length 3/8 I.D. line and then terminating it with a 1/4" whip to keep the weight of the hose off the tool.

Finally a lot of the noise of a piston compressor comes from the air intake. If you can plumb it a short distance out of the room you are working in it quiets things down a bit.

I like air tools for serious work. For small projects which most are at home electric is fine.
I have a small compressor at home, I use electric tools mostly. If I have a big project I do it at work (lucky me). At work I have a 30 hp rotary screw. It puts out a legit 100 cfm all day every day, totally different situation but every tip I gave above applies no matter the size of the compressor.

Have fun.