First concerning issue

[Rawkkrawler]

Thanks to everyone for the responses!

The car was completed in June of last year. The entire fuel system is brand new. Fuel pump, fuel filter, steel line up to the firewall then back to a 3/8" fuel line to the new regulator then a small piece to the carb, which is also brand new.

The car has 1600 miles on it already. In Florida I try to take it out once a week. The 1/2" spacer helped last year but this just seemed to have just come out of nowhere. I did look at the sight glass on the front and rear of the carb and the floats seem high. I never adjusted them when I pulled it from the box but maybe I can drop them a little to see if that helps.

I'll also get in there after that and clean the needle and seat.

I mentioned the tach going to zero but I may have had the clutch in pumping the gas, I can't remember for sure. I haven't ruled out the ignition problem yet.

[Dwight]

check you fuel filter for size and does it have any trash (bits of rubber from the fuel line)in it?
Ethanol gasoline eats up most rubber.

Dwight

[Snake2998]

Perhaps you have an intermittent electrical issue further up the line such as battery earth - did your other electrical gauges die at the same time as the rev counter.

The above wouldn't explain the symptom of lowered power at times.

[Ron61]

I had much the same type of issue with one of my cars several years ago and it took months to finally find it. I thought it was a fuel problem and we check and cleaned the carb, fuel lines, and everything looked and tested OK. Then one day when we had it on my friends lift at his garage and it was at idle he noticed the rubber hose that connected to the fuel line suddenly sucked closed. We had checked that hose several times and it felt good. But it would start to close a little and power would drop and suddenly the engine would die. We pulled the hose off and checked it, even cut it open and it looked good. No soft spots or anything. But I put a new hose on and have never had a problem since. And as coincidence would have it a month or so after that a guy that I worked with was talking about his Dodge Charger doing the same thing. He had spend quite a bit having garages look at it and I told him what I had found. He changed that short rubber line and his problem went away too. And the one he took off looked good and had no soft spots in it either.

Ron

[Rawkkrawler]

Thanks again for the help everyone. Sounds like with some time this may be an inexpensive fix. I'll start by replacing the rubber hose and fuel filter (it's a canister type so I won't be able to inspect it easily).

As far as the carb adjustments, I'm going to get that sorted at as well. I expected some adjustment would be needed but it ran absolutely perfect for 1600 miles in varying conditions, extreme heat and what Florida considers low, maybe 35.

I'll also watch for changes in gauge movement when it acts up in case it's an electrical issue. Unfortunately I'm usually looking for a safe place to quickly exit the road when it starts to fail.

I'll keep everyone posted. And again, this is what makes the site great. Everyone sharing the unique examples of what can go wrong and the fixes you've found.

[Rawkkrawler]

Update...

I found a slight kink in the 3/8" fuel hose between the electric fuel pump and the canister filter. I'm removing the filter between the tank and pump all together and replacing the fuel line as well as rerouting it to provide more of a straight shot.

I'm adding a 40 micron filter just before the fuel regulator to provide filtering. The one I purchased seems ok but is only rated for 300hp. I suspect I'm closer to 375. That being the case, it's only street driven so is it safe to assume that the fuel in the bowl would buffer any starvation issues?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-645150

Once finished it'll be tank-fuel pump-40 micron filter-regulator-carb.

Sound ok?

Many thanks to all who have responded!

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by Rawkkrawler

Thanks to everyone for the responses!

The car was completed in June of last year. The entire fuel system is brand new. Fuel pump, fuel filter, steel line up to the firewall then back to a 3/8" fuel line to the new regulator then a small piece to the carb, which is also brand new.

The car has 1600 miles on it already. In Florida I try to take it out once a week. The 1/2" spacer helped last year but this just seemed to have just come out of nowhere. I did look at the sight glass on the front and rear of the carb and the floats seem high. I never adjusted them when I pulled it from the box but maybe I can drop them a little to see if that helps.

I'll also get in there after that and clean the needle and seat.

I mentioned the tach going to zero but I may have had the clutch in pumping the gas, I can't remember for sure. I haven't ruled out the ignition problem yet.

This is your first problem, and needs to be addressed asap.

ALL carburettors need to have their float level checked and adjusted, especially removed from a box and fitted for the first time.
It has gone through transportation with the floats banged around upside down etc.

QFTs are great carbs, and I'm SURE the carb would come with instructions to tell you to set the levels correctly prior to engine start.