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If and when the time comes with my Aviad, I will be thinking seriously about the reinforcing "bars" to even the pressure against the gaskets and avoid the "pinching" effect at the bolt locations.:cool:
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I've patterned and cut some pan reinforcements for a BB Chev in the past - but just for the corner locations. Doing the whole rail with what I have in the garage would be a big job. It would be nice if someone with a CNC machine or something could work up some patterns for some typical pans and market them.
Mickmate - are you out there?? |
I think I'll remove the pan, get some stainless bar, maybe 3/8" or 1/2" wide by 3/16" thick, lay it out over the pan rail, weld the joints, and drill. I don't think it would take me more than 2 hours.
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Send some pics if you do it. |
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Always show your work.;)
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Yes please - show us what you come up with.
Good luck. |
May take me a couple of weeks, but you'll see it.
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Here are a few pictures of what we came up with to try and help with the leaking oil pans.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...ch-mods-2.html |
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Studs
I started using set screws for valve cover studs, after seeing them on a friend's race car. You don't really need high strength ARP studs with coarse/fine threads, and the coarse threads allow you to tighten them with more friction on the nut w/out collapsing the gasket.
I used to use ARP studs on the pan, but they kept backing out. I don't recall what I have on the pan right now. I know I tried using studs with silicone on the threads, but that was a long time ago, and I haven't been under that car in a while, so I just don't remember. The Cobra has bolts from a previous owner. Sorry to ramble, just thought I'd provide a data point on studs vs. bolts. |
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cobrakiwi: You said it is - can you provide p/n for rails? Puhleez? BTW, my engine is 460 CID (385 series). |
Yes, I am talking about the stainless reinforcing rail.
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Thanks |
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