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Oil pan studs or bolts?
I remember Barry R. saying in a post that studs don't provide enough clamping force vs bolts and will loosen over time, but that doesn't make sense to me. I like the installation advantages studs provide. Also, once you retorque them a few times to account for gasket compression, you can put another nut on them to keep the first one from loosening. Thoughts?
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I don't have much experience in that area but, I used bolts because I had them at my disposal & had bought studs where I could afford it(thought it most important). I've had the pan off a couple times & studs would have mad things a little easier
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I have always used bolts though studs would make putting the pan back on after removing it a little easier.
Ron |
I put studs in (they came with the Canton pan I bought) and the the nuts CONSTANTLY loosened up! When I stroked the motor, I replaced them with ARP bolts. No more problem.
Tim |
I used studs and 'The Right Stuff'. Once that sh** sets up, loose fasteners probably don't even matter.:LOL:
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I have pan studs on my 331 stroker. I installed them "quite snug" and then used the blue gasket, tightening the nuts appropriately. i haven't had any issues with loosening, and I like the ease of dropping and reinstalling the pan---should I need to.
Pan studs have worked fine for me. DD |
Bolts are old school. I use.....
Studs add torque increase, easy installation and I heard better hold. That's why they use in carbs, no? |
I've had both studs and bolts with oil pans on ally CSX FE blocks and my experience says Barry is correct. I never tried to figure out why but his conclusion makes sense to me.
Studs are easier, though. %/ |
Studs are without a doubt stronger than bolts (not that an oil pan needs it). Nuts backing off is another issue altogether. I like the studs.
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ARP bolts here with little issues.
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I was able to replace the pan gasket in my Kirkham with the engine in the car because I had bolts. If I had studs, it would have been very difficult.
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Studs, right stuff on gaskets, of which I use 2, moderate tension, after a couple heat cycles, go back for 2-3 odd ones that need to be snugged. You're done.
Have had zero pan drips with this system, Canton pan with windage tray. |
Studs, right stuff on gaskets, of which I use 2, moderate tension, after a couple heat cycles, go back for 2-3 odd ones that need to be snugged. You're done.
Have had zero pan drips with this system, Canton pan with windage tray. |
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BTW. what oil pan do you run? |
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Aviaid dry sump pan with external oil pump, courtesy of Pat Buckley (give credit where credit is due). BTW, there is a step where you have to hit the starter to move the throws/counter weights out of the way. Made me nervous with no oil! |
Alright, I'm getting to old and have CRS disease. Just went out and looked.....I have friggin studs, NOT bolts!:o
That's why I had to reposition the crank. |
I put Arp stainless studs and nuts on 2 weeks ago. Have had the pan off 2 times already (don't ask why) and it is easier than using bolts. It will come off again this week and I don't mind at all. The 4 corners are 5/16 studs with 3/8 12pt nuts and the rest is 1/4 studs with 5/16 12pt nuts.
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change your pan? |
Putting studs into ali has the advantage of not wearing out or stripping the threads over time. And if you use nylock nuts then they shouldn't loosen of.
JD |
I will chime in.
I used ARP SS studs and SS locking nuts. One huge reason for me was I could take that tangled mess that came in the gasket box and put hole-over-stud and then drop the pan on. I used grease on one side of the gasket and in 15 years it has NEVER leaked. Just my $.02 worth Tru |
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