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Has anybody ot anything good to say about Hydraulic Throw out clutch bearings?
Hi guys
I am looking at actuating the clutch between my FE and TKO 600 with a hydraulic throw out. However, all I have read is negative reports on these units. Many people have experienced seal failure, yet most modern small cars utilise this form of clutch operation. I am wondering if the failures are caused by not having a precisely adjusted clutch pedal stop?? In any case can anybody recommend these as truly reliable and which unit/manufacturer would that be? |
Well, I am not running an FE or a TKO, but rather a 289 with a close ratio top loader. However, I am using a Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing and I have had no clutch problems. I never shift below 5,00 rpms and typically am shifting at around 6500-7200 rpms with no problems on the race car. Typically these shifts are occurring around bevy braking and cornering, so a lot of external forces going on with no problems.
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The reasons an external slave cylinder with clutch fork could be preferred over an internal throw out bearing are:
1)No hydraulic fluid near the clutch. 2)Don't have to remove the transmission in the event of failure. Mark |
Any slight misalignment will eat the HTOB and the cost of finding all of the issues far exceeds the gain. After it failed the second time I just went with the classic external slave and fork.
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Use Tilton.....they have been around a long time with Hyd. TOB......
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I've had a McLeod in my Cobra for 18 years behind my 427 with a toploader first and now a TKO 600 No problems. I also have a Tilton in my Daytona Coupe behind a Coyote and a T56.
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I have a Tilton in my cobra with a 525hp Windsor, TKO 5 speed, no problems, be sure to put in a pedal stop and will last for years!
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But, if you are a regular "shade tree" mechanic, with a nice, but not professional grade, garage, then servicing a HTOB that is leaking, misbehaving, etc. becomes a weekend killing PITA. If you have the room in the tunnel to install a traditional fork and slave, then do it.;)
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Thanks
Thanks guys
Seems as suspected, external slave and fork if possible. If not Tilton, perfect line up and clutch pedal stop. I have new FE/Quick Time RM 6057/ short shaft 600 TKO + McLeod 12” Street Pro, awaiting installation, once the current engine comes out. Can anyone please suggest an off the shelf, aftermarket clutch fork and slave cylinder that is intended as a bolt in for this set up? |
Quote:
I have a list from the guy that installed it: Parts required: External slave kit Clutch fork Release bearing Adjustable fork pivot ball Tremec trans. front bearing retainer 13/16 Master cyl. to replace current 3/4 Like I said I'm pretty sure he got the stuff from Forte after I got them together but my pack-rat email doesn't show it since I just got them together for it. Note the change to the master cylinder... |
I knew there was something about this already. Goes way back.
Start with this one: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...-cylinder.html There are several discussions about the cylinders themselves. Lots of cars use the CNC cylinders. CNC, Inc. - Manufacturers of Quality Pedals & Brake Components Be sure to get the steel sleeved cylinders. The aluminum only ones fail rapidly if things aren't perfect. My clutch fluid was gross because of the aluminum in the fluid and once it starts, the metal becomes a file and things go down hill quickly! Good luck! |
Can anyone please suggest an off the shelf, aftermarket clutch fork and slave cylinder that is intended as a bolt in for this set up?
Contact Mike Forte, I believe he is an advertiser here, he will set you up with everything you need. |
The most common point of failure for the early hydraulic TOBs was their banjo fittings which used o-rings to provide a seal. They looked cool but the clutch heat in the bellhousing would deteriorate the banjo fitting o-rings over time and the TOB would begin to leak.
When McLeod went to their second generation hydraulic TOB they eliminated the banjo fittings and used plain fittings with NPT threading to go straight into the TOB. Once the banjo fittings and their o-ring style seals were gone so to were the leaks. The external slave cylinder with a mechanical throwout bearing arm is by far the most straight forward clutch release mechanism. More importantly if the hydraulic paraphernalia does go kaput, for whatever reason, it is easily serviced on the outside of the bell housing. Ed |
I bought a McLeod HTOB. One of the newly designed "fixed" units. Installed it in front of my TKO 600. Pedal stop is a must. Was able to go to a smaller master cylinder for easier pedal effort. Nice and smooth clutch, easy to push. Loved it right up until it started leaking. Had to take off the transmission to fix it. As stated, not an easy fix. Now it sits on my shelf gathering dust. I'd rather deal with a harder, less smooth pedal than have to do that again.
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Swivel fitting
The early Tilton were leaking around the swivel fitting - 20 years ago.
I would consider this fixed ;-) I actually used a copper ring conversion which I tightened through holes which I drilled into the bellhousing. It is very helpful if your chassis is close to the clutch slave cylinder or TO bearing lever. If you don't have a supplier for that slave cylinder bracket, it takes a bit of fabricating. Time you can save by using the internal version. |
I have a tilton I never used if interested $150 plus shipping. It's what I paid for it.................
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