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Superformance shifter handle and boot
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Hi All,
I noticed the rubber boot of my superformance s/c cobra has developed a few holes. The replacement superformance part currently costs $50. I believe a forum member in another thread mentioned that the superformance part is just a ford piece. Is this the right ford part below? It’s about half the cost. Finish line has one as well, but I’m unsure who makes that piece. Also, I noticed the cosmetic rubber o-rings on my shifter handle have begun to crack. Has anyone ever replaced them before? If so, do you have the replacement size of the o-rings handy? I figured I could replace these rubber parts all at once. Thanks! |
O-rings can be sourced locally at a hardware store. Boot appears correct, option would be a leather boot. The rubber boot is open to the elements under the car (moisture etc.) and it is always exposed to heat. Replacement is a common maintenance issue. Boot longevity can also be effected by the location of the hole in tunnel to the shift mechanism. If the boot is always pinched it will crack. You might want to get 4 of those spring clip speed nuts. The mounting screws for the chrome ring usually just screw into the fiberglass tunnel. A couple times in and out with the screws and the holes are oversized.
Blas |
I need a new shifter boot and ring myself and need to do a bit of shopping around. There must be a slightly taller and/or softer rubber boot out there to clear taller short throw shifter bases and resist binding or even bouncing the shifter out of gear in some cases. As I'm typing, I think I remember a recent thread about this. I'll do some digging.
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That is the correct boot, they are available from many sources for far less that what you were quoted by Superformance. I agree on the o-rings, most hardware stores will have them.
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Thanks for the info. Just ordered one from eBay. Total cost was about $23.
One of the reviews said that it was a direct replacement for a Superformance Cobra. |
If you purchase a cheap knock-off rubber boot, you will find that it will develop a whiteish grey chalkie finish on it after being exposed to the sun and the UV rays for a while. They also tend to be a bit thicker and contribute to the shifter popping out of gear occasionally..... a taller boot just adds more stress to the boot because of more boot material is moving around when you shift so it cracks sooner.
Blas Note: A good time to check and tighten all your grounding points under the dash and in front and back while sitting in the front seat as the boot replacement is a quick project, and your in a working mode.... Blas |
Just a quick note I discovered today. The part number in the photo with the boot actually coincides with a bellows that has one straight edge. Part number C2AZ-7277-A is the one with a round bottom.
Blas- Good points about the 4 screws for the shifter ring. I updated my base with some Home Depot clip on speed nuts when I noticed two of those shifter ring screws were already loose and backed out because they had only caught the edge of the fiberglass cut out hole for the shifter. Jim- I probably ordered a boot from the same e-bay seller you did today. Let’s hope they do the trick. |
SPF parts
With the exception of the body, frame, some underpinning and things; there are heaps of SPF parts that are standard kit car bits and many others that are just sourced from the market. Makes doing your own work even more enjoyable.
Join superformance.org, the cross reference file is worth the price of admission... Steve H SPF 1764 |
If the boot has developed a crack on one side, you can loosen it and rotate it 180 degrees. You'll avoid having to buy a new one and get a few more miles / months / years of wear out of the current one.
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Gene, what is the base diameter of the boot you ordered?
I've got a $22 Mr. Gasket boot and ring coming but I'd prefer a better quality boot, if the base is the right diameter. I need 5 1/2". My boot is cracked but I'll not change it until warmer weather. The crack allows some warm air for my right hand, here in our nipply AZ winter weather. |
I got a new repro shift boot and o-rings installed on the car. The hardest part of the job was removing the tight shifter knob.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. FYI - My local Ace Hardware had the o-rings in a size that came very close to what was originally there. Specs are: I.D. 7/16” O.D. 9/16” Width 1/16” Cost was .35 cents ea. |
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Hi Karl,
The repro boot I ordered has the 5 1/2” base dimension. Just make sure you don’t order one that has a straight edge for console equipped ford cars. |
Thanks Gene. That's exactly what I'm looking for. Much nicer than the Mr. Gasket one I brought. Is it a Ford Parts item or did you get it elsewhere?
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Hi Karl,
As Mark IV eluded to in his post, the part is no longer available from Ford. However, using the manufacturer part number C2AZ-7277-A in an eBay search will bring up what you are looking for. I ordered mine from one of the vendors on eBay for less than 1/2 the cost Superformance wanted. NOS boots are available on occaision, but they cost anywhere from $100 to $300. I would venture to guess that most of the reproduction boots probably come from Asia. Hope this helps! |
Thank you Mark IV and Gene. I'll get it done.
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When replacing the rubber shift boot is it easier the remove the ball and
reverse lock out and slide the boot down from the top or is it easier to remove the two bolts , remove the complete shift lever and slide the new boot up from the bottom? |
Kit,
When I have done it I removed the ball and lockout and then pulled the boot up. That way you do not have to remove the shifter. Getting at the bolts from underneath is not as easy as removing the top end. Jim |
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I just undid the two bolts holding my "hipo" stick to the shifter mechanism and pulled it out of the boot. A shot of spray silicone made inserting the stick down through the top of the new boot eazy.
BTW, my shifter is a PRO 50 on my Tremec 500 tranny. |
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