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ClearGuard Nano SR Paint Protector Film
What is the current thought on wrapping paint with protective film. I've found a very reputable company locally (they wrap clear film onto new Bugattis, Ferraris, etc. as well as customers' cars). Their services have a great reputation, but I'm still skeptical of the long-term impact. The specific film they use is ClearGuard Nano SR. If I do it, I plan to wrap the whole car, or at least the front and rear fenders and sill plates.
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I have got a thought try a garage with humidity and temp controlled environment.Then you could protect everything!
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I think Kevins2 had quite a bit of PPF applied to his so you might check with him. I installed about $1200 in PPF kits (XPEL) on my GT350 so I guess that makes me in favor of it. I also installed some pieces on my ERA - primarily the rockers up to below the doors, the rear fender flares and the roll under behind the rear tires. Trying to do the front of a Cobra with bulk PPF is beyond the capability of most of us - so I just keep my distance from everyone to avoid road rash up front. But if you are going to drive quite a bit in traffic or highways you really do need something up there - or figure at some point out in the future, just getting the front end re-sprayed.
A lot of the GT350 guys have their whole car wrapped because they track them. It usually requires partially stripping the car to removes lights, emblems, mirrors, bumpers, etc to get a clean installation - so that may be a factor in your decision. Only drawback I see (provided a really good installer is used who is careful with his cuts and doesn't cut the paint) is that they say it needs to be stripped off in 6 - 8 years approximately and replaced or it starts getting more difficult to remove and can risk damage to the paint. But these cars spend a good deal of time parked in a garage and used for weekend fun - which I would think would greatly extend the life over a daily driver. Anyway - that's what I know. |
I had the front, rocker and quarter panels done on my ERA Slabside about five years ago. Here in Vermont we have stone residue year round left over from winter sanding. Repainting is expensive. I've been very pleased with the paint protection given with no discoloring.
John ERA Slabside #3010 289 BRG |
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I'll check with Kevin. My "learner" has a LOT of freckles on the leading/underside of the front end. Not so much on the leading edge of the rear fenders, so just applying it in spots is an option. I'm a little concerned the installer (arguably the best in northern CA) told me several stories about custom paint issues--either paint lifting during application or during removal. Kinda defeats the purpose of spending a boat load on protective film! Also, they tell me they can't wrap the whole car because of the lack of body panels. This film is "guaranteed" for 10 years, after which it's recommended to be replaced. I'm thinking I may just stick with my trusty Collinite Insulator wax and look at the inevitable rock chips as badges of honor. Oh, and after hearing the disclaimer from the installer I talked to the painter. He said that he's not worried about the paint coming up, but definitely wait for at least 12 months before applying any film, so I've got a few months to decide. Evan |
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That's a good endorsement. Who did your paint, and how long did you wait before applying the PPF? Which film did you choose? Thanks, Evan |
Evan,
The paint job was done by Big B through ERA. The clear film was applied about two months later. Not certain the brand of film used but it certainly fights stone chips. My car still looks the way I want it to without having to spending more hard earned money. John ERA #3010 Slabside 289 BRG |
So far I haven't impact tested this but I had some really heavy thickness paint protection film about 6" wide from something - kind of a generic, older style product. I overlayed 2 or 3 layers of it on the bottom of the oil cooler scoop (out of sight) so that if I ever mis-judge a curb or speed bump and lightly bump the underside of that scoop, it might protect it from paint damage. Of course a hard grounding - it probably won't do much tp help.
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Our Cobras are difficult when it comes to these types of decisions. Due to the lack of body panel seams (there aren't any), it is very difficult to perform paint repair as you will either have a blend line somewhere, or have to respray the entire car's body. There isn't much car in the first place, so respraying the entire car isn't that big of a deal as opposed to living with a blend line.
As for PPF, the same holds true. Where will you be able to tolerate the seams? I've looked into PPF for some of my other cars and couldn't justify it since it needs to be removed within 10 years and the cost of the PPF with the coverage I want (no seams) is about the same cost as a respray. Unless you cover the entire front end of the car in PPF, you are bound to still get a rock chip or something outside the coverage protection area. Removing 10 year old PPF can be very expensive, time consuming, and possibly harmful to the paint you are trying to protect. My solution is to just drive the damn thing and touch up the bigger stone chips along the way the best you can. If things get really bad, respray. However, there is something to be said about a well enjoyed Cobra with some road rash and patina. Getting that process started is the most difficult part to deal with in our minds, though. I totally get it. |
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I'm a big believing in PPF. I did most of my GT350 and LOVE it. I'm more relaxed every time I take the car out on our horrible and crowded roads. Now I want to do my FFR. I'm wondering where people are putting the seams on the front end since rolls are only 60" wide and our cars have no body seams, so there will need to be multiple pieces of PPF.
I'm thinking I'd do both fenders and then so the nose in one piece with the seams being where the nose meets the fenders so it's in that crease. I've had seams before and they are VERY good. I also have the high impact area done in front of my rear tires on the GT350 and you can hardly notice it, so I'm ok with "patches" of PPF if I can't get the entire car done. Oh, and I went back the following year and did my roof and trunk to cover my factory vinyl stripes. Having the film over all horizontal surfaces is soooo good - no worries about bird poop etching the paint or stripes, so I can't wait to do the Cobra next! (PFA) |
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I had my SPF MKII completely wrapped in Xpel and then coated in Ceramic Pro. Also had the chrome wire wheels treated with Ceramic Pro. The professional installer, Automobilia Auto Salon in West Haven, CT is highly regarded in the industry and not many would even attempt to fully wrap a Cobra because of its lack of body panels and it’s complex contours. The owner of Automobilia, Alex Jones, is a perfectionist and spent a lot of time and effort custom cutting and fitting the film and wrapping all of the edges. They removed all of the trim and bumpers, windshield, etc. from the car so they could have full access and kept the seams they had to use to a minimum and well hidden and then reinstalled everything. Not cheap by any means, but the results are well worth it for peace of mind when driving it and in terms of it being extremely easy to keep looking good.
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And here it is today just waiting to be driven again.
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Beautiful!
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John ERA #3010 Slabside 289 SB BRG |
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That's not too far for me to trailer the car to him to wrap it. Mind if I ask what they charged? You can PM me if you prefer. Thanks! |
The seams in the front run from the front corners of the hood and follow the curve under the headlight buckets. You really have to know they are there to see them.
I recommend that you just give them a call and let them know what you want to have done and ask them for a quote. Ask for Alex or Christian. Their web page is https://www.automobiliaautosalon.com/. |
I will call them, thanks. So the seams run lengthwise from the hood to the bumper area? Not across the car, right?
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They do not run across the car. They follow the valley from the hood corners and circle around under the headlights to the front wheels. They did a great job and they are great people to work with. I’ve had them do all of my cars as well as my wife’s daily driver and it takes a beating during the winter here in CT. Still not a mark on it from road debris and it cleans up easily.
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I had the front, doors and front of rear fenders (spats, essentially) done with XPEL. The front goes across at the leading edge of the hood, so the seam only crosses over the fenders and is all but invisible unless you're looking for it. I had the doors done to prevent scratches from shirt buttons, ladies' jewelry, etc. The installer indicated doing the entire door was easy because it is essentially a flat panel with a one dimensional curve at the top. I've also had the entire front of my Acura RDX covered. Although I'm pleased with both, I've read that films should be removed after 10 years. I'm still well within that timeframe so haven't researched it yet. Not sure what the implications are if you leave it on longer, but can guess it might get harder to remove, and/or yellow. I also assume that on a Cobra that is garage kept and not out in the sun as much as a normal car, the time could be longer.
If there are any experts on this thread or someone that has had film removed, it'd be nice to hear about your experience with film removal. Kevin |
After a year and 3000 miles on my ERA, I decided to forego the wrap. I have a few rock chips--they are badges of honor. It doesn't stop me from driving the crap out of the car.
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