Backdraft slave cylinder

[hauss]

I am looking for some advice ,on a new slave cylinder for my clutch.I have replaced two in less than one thousand miles on my car .They are doorman brand for a mazda b2600.I have a 2012 with a 351 windsor quicktime bellhousing and a tko600 transmission I am looking for a external type. I found a speedway for 65$ and was not sure if it would work. Please help with correct parts that work thank you.

[spdbrake]

I've only had to change one on mine but the car had been sitting 13 years before I purchased it. Dorman CS103489
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you've gone thru two for shaft seals, I'd suspect its an alignment issue.
Take the removed slave apart by blowing the piston out with compressed air. Take note of the wear pattern on the piston and barrel clock angles in the bore.
It will help you determine which way to move or shim the Next Slave cylinder to lessen side loads (which usually cause premature failure).
The Slave Cyl/Mount kit sold by Iconic may help you.
https://www.iconicparts.com/clutch-slave-assembly.html

DOT 3 fluid btw.

[hauss]

Yep that is the one I purchased. I will try it again using your suggestions . Thank you sir.

[Mark IV]

Alignment is very important. We like a rod end rather than a rounded bolt as it allows misalignment without pressure.

https://www.facebook.com/TimeMachine...type=3&theater

https://www.facebook.com/TimeMachine...type=3&theater

This design allows adjustment in both planes with spacers/bushings.

[hauss]

Originally Posted by Mark IV

Alignment is very important. We like a rod end rather than a rounded bolt as it allows misalignment without pressure.

https://www.facebook.com/TimeMachine...type=3&theater

https://www.facebook.com/TimeMachine...type=3&theater

This design allows adjustment in both planes with spacers/bushings.

wanted to keep stock clutch arm yours looks very nice but would require a lot of work time and $$

[Gaz64]

You need the pushrod to be straight when the clutch is fully depressed, so less spacer thickness with clutch released.
The most pressure on the piston bore occurs at full travel, especially with a short pushrod.

Gary

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by hauss

wanted to keep stock clutch arm yours looks very nice but would require a lot of work time and $$

It does require the arm to "off" the car but the bracket on the arm is a simple fabricated piece welded to the the arm and we thread the pushrod to take a female rod end with a jam nut. Total cost of parts is less than $20.00 including the spacers to center/align the slave to the arm.

[hauss]

Time and labor > $$ to me . I hear what others are saying about proper setup . I think it is just a bad part witch sucks air in the bleed screw so I am looking for a better quality part just need a little help finding one.

[spdbrake]

The bleed nipple won't suck air in. There is no check valve in it. It seals at the conical taper at the base, not allowing to fluid squirt out when the the pedal is depressed.
It can only Suck Air if: You release the pedal while bleeding before the person under the car tightens the bleed nipple.

The Speedway Slave will probably work. I'd try and stick with the same Bore diameter you currently have so there no chance of running out of stroke travel.

If you choose a larger dia slave the the stroke at the clutch will be less and then you may have to up the dia of the master to get the clutch to fully disengage when the pedal is depressed.

[hauss]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

The bleed nipple won't suck air in. There is no check valve in it. It seals at the conical taper at the base, not allowing to fluid squirt out when the the pedal is depressed.
It can only Suck Air if: You release the pedal while bleeding before the person under the car tightens the bleed nipple.

The Speedway Slave will probably work. I'd try and stick with the same Bore diameter you currently have so there no chance of running out of stroke travel.

If you choose a larger dia slave the the stroke at the clutch will be less and then you may have to up the dia of the master to get the clutch to fully disengage when the pedal is depressed.

I understand what you are saying, but a improperly machined hole, will let air into the system. I disassembled my slave and was unable to see any wear on the piston. Not sure of bore diameter but has a adjustable pin on the speedway witch I like. Do you think master cylinder could be allowing air into the system?

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by hauss

I understand what you are saying, but a improperly machined hole, will let air into the system. I disassembled my slave and was unable to see any wear on the piston. Not sure of bore diameter but has a adjustable pin on the speedway witch I like. Do you think master cylinder could be allowing air into the system?

That's mechanically impossible, if it could suck air in, it will definitely leak fluid under pressure.

Master cylinders can suck air, depending on type/configuration.

Gary

[hauss]

I bench bleed the new slave cylinder then replaced the old one.I removed the hydraulic line and while it was dripping installed the new cylinder. I refilled the master cylinder with dot#4 cleaned all the brake fluid and now the clutch works as it should .I do not know why I was unable to bleed the normal way .I just hope that this will help anyone else who may be having trouble with their clutch.

[Gaz64]

Does the slave cylinder bleed screw face up or down?

[hauss]

The bleed screw is up but the fill line in even higher up. Replaced flex hose today but this time it only worked for 10 miles . may have air trapped in flex line so I will rebleed

[spdbrake]

I replaced the factory master cyl with a Wilwood 3/4" remote unit, abandoned the factory hard line running next to the exhaust collector and used a 48" -4 flex line running over the footbox.

Shopping list if you need it.
2 each Russell RUS-640301 BRAKE FITTING (1 at master, 1 at slave)
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/part...0301/overview/
1 each Allstar Performance ALL46402-48 hose
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/aaf-all46402-48
1 each Wilwood 260-3374 master
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/wil-260-3374
2 each Eaton Weatherhead C5506X4 swivel (at the master and slave)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1 each Fragola 499162-BL swivel (cut the nipple off the remote resv base and tapped in, makes a for cleaner routing to the master)
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/fra-499162-bl
Summit's photo is messed up, Shows a 1/4" NPT when the fitting actually 1/8" NPT
Thermo sleeve on all fuel hoses and brake lines https://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo-Tec/893/14011/10002/-1

[hauss]

Turns out the master cylinder was leaking ordered new from amazon . Going to have fun getting to the fitting not sure yet of the best way to get at it. Never saw the leak because it was leaking behind the carpet.

[hauss]

Dam near impossible, to remove the clutch master cylinder had to crawl across the car from opposite side, lay across motor and reach inside of fender and around brake booster .Working blind, just feeling around by hand.Not a job for old men. Finally got it out, but what a chore! Not looking forward, to replacing with the new one. Looking back on it, I should have rebuilt it in the car . I think that would have been a lot easier.

[Cashburn]

Removing the fender gill makes life much easier

[Ozzie Goat]

^^
this

[hauss]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

Removing the fender gill makes life much easier

Now you tell me. Good thing I am still waiting on the new one.I will do this on the install