New member with questions
 

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have thought long and hard for years about building a Cobra kit when I retire in 3 years. I have long been a car nut, and have completed a frame off nut and bolt restoration of a '72 Hurst Olds. So I can swing a wrench and complete most anything required regarding a car. Especially of a 60s-70s vintage.

After a lot of looking online, I thinking about either ERA, or Factory Five for the kit, probably a "deluxe" kit, with most things being completed, leaving only driveline, and body & paint with some electrical hook-up by me. What are your experiences regarding those 2 builders?

Secondly, I'm really struggling with which engine to go with. FE or small block stroker, or possibly a coyote. I would to hear your input, and experience.

Thanks for your input.

Welcome to the forum. You've asked some really good questions. Since you're looking at something close to a turnkey minus car, there are other options beside ERA and Factory Five, although both are great replicas and there are many around. Suggest you attend some local car shows and visit with the owners to learn about their experience. Others you may want to consider are Superformance and Backdraft.
I built a Lone Star Classics kit and installed an FE motor in it. Later on I sold that car and purchased a Superformance which is a true turn key minus car. They are built in South Africa, but there is a pretty good network of Dealers throughout the US. Both SPF and Backdraft are complete from the factory minus the drive train. In mine, I installed another FE, this time a 427 stoker, but they will accommodate basically any engine you want. Engine choice is an individual decision and, among other things, how close to replicating an original you desire. All the engine choices you mentioned are work able.
Take your time to investigate the manufacturers and learn their unique differences. Best of luck to you in your adventure.

:D:3DSMILE::D

You need to decide if you want “original” or a hot rod that looks like a Cobra. That answer will exclude some makes and push you towards others. It also helps with engine choice.

ie - ERA will be close to original and 427 cars would typically have FE engines. Backdraft is more of a hot rod modern take on the Cobra and typically has a Windsor striker or Coyote.

John

Both good but completely different.

I've already learned something! Didn't know Superformance and Backdraft offered " turnkey minus" cars. I'll check them out.
Still struggling with FE over small block stroker. FE probably many more dollars, heavier.

Your goal is to get a Cobra. But what are your motivations:

1. I want a Cobra and a kit is the easiest and cheapest way to achieve my goal.
2. I want to build a Cobra because I love fabrication, and Cobra kits are plentiful and the end result is a cool car.

If your answer is #2: Good for you. Build a kit.

If your answer is #1: Look closely here. The failure rate of people with that goal is mind boggling. Only a small percentage of kits are completed by their original owners, and those that do seem to report completion a decade after starting. If you want to get a Cobra to drive, buy one that is done. Kit builders always forget that it is a labor and TOOL INTENSIVE TASK! You will need many tools that the typical weekend garage mechanic will not have. First and foremost will be a lift. Without it you'll take a lot more time to finish your car. Second, if you for example have never paineted a car, you're choosing the absolute WORST first car to paint. There are absolutely no flat surfaces or straight lines and a poor amateur paint job significantly reduces the future value.

Look on www.cobracountry.com and just buy an already built, sorted out car.

Edit: This sat in a compose window for a while and others piped in, especially about the "finished roller". That is probably your best choice. Even installing the engine can be a modest task and in some cases, require minor adjustments to the frame esp. motor mounts. But a much more manageable task with a better "calendar" for achieving a car that can be driven. Then you get to sort it out. And a sorted finished car is still something that you should consider. PS. Also add to the list of "roller" builders, Shelby American. A well built Shelby American CSX car will hold its value or appreciate, and noone owns one of these toys forever.

A Cobra with a Coyote is also a tougher sell. Some love them, but why put an engine like that in a Cobra? We have Cobras because we love the rough running smelly lumpy chunk of iron that needs some mechanical attention after every drive. If I wanted something I couldn't hear I'd get a Mustang.

Check out the backdraft I was going to build one and found for me I just got more for my money with a backdraft.What ever you decide welcome to the madness.

Your choices for an FE are a rebuilt old engine, usually with questions of history and reliability. Or a "new recreation" by the Shelby Engine company and a few others. Either are going to be a pricey addition. A stroked Windsor can give you the desired displacement or more. Fuel injection can also be a plus with the newer auto-tuning digital systems.

I would sit in them also, before you make a decision. The Factory Five interior is considerably tighter than most. I’m 6 foot tall with size 13 foot and it’s a tight squeeze for me. The ERA, Superformance, and Backdrafts are considerably roomier both in the cockpit in the trunk.
If you were considering tracking the car, then I would lean towards Factory Five Racing complete kit, as it is set up better for the track.
Regarding the engine, keep in mind not every manufacture supports every engine. My personal choice is a 351 Windsor based Dart block stoked to 427, can go as big as 468. You can achieve more power than a 427 FE for about 6K and 140 pounds less.

What mks427 says is true. I tried on (you dont get into a cobra you wear it) a superformance and the steering wheel rested on my lap. Its important to sit in any car you buy.

This is excellent advice for the O.P.

Unless you have a strong working knowledge of automotive maintenance
and troubleshooting, building a Cobra, even in the so called "kit" form
is a journey many become disillusioned with before completion.

A complete roadworthy Cobra that has met DOT registration requirements
maybe a better path for the first time owner who just wants the exhilaration
of driving/sharing the Cobra experience. After a few years of learning
if the desire to do a scratch build is still there...…..sell the car and do it.

I have the smelly, lumpy, maintenance needy over-powered big block,
attention grabbing, award winning Cobra I've always wanted. I will also say
it took years to get there and the journey was not smooth sailing.

You can get a turnkey minus Cobra from any number of manufacturers right here in the US, no need to go to another continent. Off the top of my head ERA, Unique, Hurricane Motorsports and UCC here in Texas. All of these guys build a great Cobra with high quality parts, and offer a complete turn key Cobra if desired.

And shelby American and suoerformance. (In order of least depreciation and often at least neutral cost and sometimes even appreciation)

Look for a built and sorted out car at www.cobracountry.com

I vote for a completed Cobra with a FE, I have a Unique with a 427 sideoiler and top loader 4 speed and although it’s the most obnoxious hot rod I own I love driving it and the sound a real FE makes.
I have built quite a few cars (15 plus) but they never and I mean never are as easy or quick as I thought it should have been and I have a lift and paint booth at my disposal. I strongly suggest you buy a Cobra and then if you love it like I know you will consider building one with improvements that you learned from your first one.

I have a 427 CI small block chevy in my Cobra. I recommend a smaller engine. Given a choice I'd go for a small block body and a small block motor for street driving. It'll be easier to work on and much more usable on the street.

I'd probably go for the pipes under the floor too.

I have said many times I would do the same thing. Still ford though.

Agree 100%. A CSX car would be the obvious choice for an authentic, no excuses top of the line Cobra. I thought the OP was looking for the best replica Cobra. There have been some really good buys on CobraCountry recently, probably the best way to go, a quality replica ready to roll.

It's hard to beat the small block ford.;) Mine came with the bowtie.

If you are in the Cincinnati area drive seven hours South to Gadsden Alabama and visit Unique Motorsports. They have several cars that you can sit in. I'm sure they can take you for a ride.

With an FE you can install a aluminum intake, heads and water pump to save 150 lbs.
Unique has IRS rear end a big plus for some people.

I had a 500 hp fuel injected 347 and it was fast. I put 42,000 on that car. Loved that car and could go anywhere in it. I had the padding reworked in the seat so I could take long trips. Most Cobra seats are bad.

I drove a 408 W with 530 hp in a B&B for several thousands of miles. It was a great driving car. And fast. Well, any Cobra with 300 hp is fast.

I have driven a couple of Unique's with 427 FE 620 hp. They sound great, Very fast. I didn't feel a heavy front end like most talk about.

I suggest you ride in a small block Cobra and a FE before you decide.

We had a guy that was undecided about the motor and hp he wants in his new Cobra. I took him for a ride in the green Unique with the 620 hp FE. After the ride he said a 400 hp Coyote would be enough.

Buy the motor you want and remember you can always add hp later.

I started with 250 to 300 hp and worked my way up to 500. It gave me something to do in the winter and I didn't kill my self the first week.
You have to learn how to drive a Cobra. They are a different car.

Remember A Cobra is not for everyone.

I agree with a lot in this thread, but a 427 car is likely no more nose heavy than a 289 car. A typical ERA 427 is 51% front and 49% rear weight. I have actually seen some combinations where the rear had more weight than the front. The engine is mounted behind the front axle.

No doubt some replicas are designed differently and would be nose heavy.

John

The way the chassis is designed it is pretty easy to get 5050 distribution. That is not the only issue with the large displacement engine. The engine braking with a limited slip will cause the car to lose traction on the rear which is no problem unless you need to steer while at it....and then you can find yourself facing the wrong direction in a blink.