Roush 427R first start after 7 years?

romko007 · #1 (**permalink**) 09-21-2020, 07:28 AM

Hi guys,

For seven years my Roush 427R engine has not been started.
What procedures should I follow before starting the engine? Someone told me to pull the heads off and clean everything. What would you do?

Roman

S1965C · #2 (**permalink**) 09-21-2020, 07:34 AM

I'd start with fresh oil and filter. Then pull the carb bowls and make sure everything in there is clean and tidy. I'd also drain the tank and replace with fresh gasoline. Check the coolant level, but for just getting it to run you don't necessarily have to change that out in the beginning.

With the vital fluids out of the way, I'd then pull the distributor and insert an oil pump shaft to turn it using a drill. Pull both valve covers to ensure you are getting fresh lubricant to the valve springs. Some valve springs being under constant pressure/stress over that period may have weakened. But so long as none are visibly broken, I'd try to start it as is without pulling the heads.

I'd also pull all the plugs and spray some lubricant into each cylinder. Then hand rotate the crank before reinserting the plugs to ensure the upper cylinders get some lube and the rotating assembly is spinning free and easy.

Getting it started and running is one thing. Driving it thereafter is a whole other matter (i.e. flushing the brake fluid prior...it probably has water build-up after sitting that long).

twobjshelbys · #3 (**permalink**) 09-21-2020, 09:16 AM

Or put in some fresh gas with carb cleaner and use the start button. Let it warm up and change the oil and coolant.

If you change fluids before you start it then you're leaving behind suspended stuff in the pan that has settled and just goes back when you run it. At a minimum you need to change it again immediately. So just start it.

If it doesn't start then clean the carb.

romko007 · #4 (**permalink**) 09-22-2020, 03:35 AM

Thank you for your respond.
I will follow your advices.

S1965C · #5 (**permalink**) 09-22-2020, 07:03 AM

Please keep us posted on how it goes.

Karl Bebout · #6 (**permalink**) 09-22-2020, 08:41 AM

Only things I add to Tony's recommendation would be to give a squirt of SeaFoam, or some other snakeoil into the cylinders and then crank the engine, with the plugs out, until you have some oil pressure registered. Button it back up and start er up....in a well ventilated area.

twobjshelbys · #7 (**permalink**) 09-22-2020, 10:16 AM

The important thing to realize is that changing the oil after sitting is a waste of time. If moisture is built up in the crankcase it'll still be there and the sediment will still be on the bottom. Oil doesn't degrade (remember it was buried for millions of years) it only gets dirty and unless you run it to warm it up you will neither remove the sediment or the moisture. Run it at operating temperature for a bit and then change oil and filter.

olddog · #8 (**permalink**) 09-22-2020, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

The important thing to realize is that changing the oil after sitting is a waste of time. If moisture is built up in the crankcase it'll still be there and the sediment will still be on the bottom. Oil doesn't degrade (remember it was buried for millions of years) it only gets dirty and unless you run it to warm it up you will neither remove the sediment or the moisture. Run it at operating temperature for a bit and then change oil and filter.

For practical purposes this is close enough but not factually correct, for the purists.

I'm not sure how many years it was buried, but what was buried was vegetation and not refined oil. What we use is refined oil that has all types of things done to it. Molecules are cracked and chains of molecules are attached or polymerized. Motor oil is a concoction of additives that are mostly hydrocarbons that came from crude oil and went through some chemical altering process. There are additives that prevent rust, others increase shear load resistance, and on and on.

I'm quite certain that what I just wrote is also technically incorrect in some ways, as well. However to get to my point, oil does not wear out, but it does break down and additives go bad.

The oil that is in it is fine to start it up on. After a couple heat cycles, definitely change it out.

romko007 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-23-2020, 01:50 AM

There is currently no oil in the engine

Possibly there is oil in the oil pan

twobjshelbys · #10 (**permalink**) 09-23-2020, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romko007

There is currently no oil in the engine

Possibly there is oil in the oil pan

In that case I'd drain what is there and then top it off to the dipstick. Don't bother with the filter yet. You're going to leave all the sludge behind. Then run it per above to warm it up, drive it a little, AND THEN CHANGE OIL (AND FILTER) AGAIN IMMEDIATELY!!! Don't let it cool off for solids to settle.

Was it put away low or did it leak out????

twobjshelbys · #11 (**permalink**) 09-23-2020, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olddog

I'm not sure how many years it was buried, but what was buried was vegetation and not refined oil. What we use is refined oil that has all types of things done to it. Molecules are cracked and chains of molecules are attached or polymerized. Motor oil is a concoction of additives that are mostly hydrocarbons that came from crude oil and went through some chemical altering process. There are additives that prevent rust, others increase shear load resistance, and on and on.
.

OK, that is technically correct. As far as I've ever seen, oil doesn't have a shelf life. So if you check the "Use by" date (if you can find it) it's probably out somewhere to 20,857.

tortuga · #12 (**permalink**) 09-24-2020, 03:30 PM

Get rid of ALL the gas everywhere. Rebuild the carb, (easy), blow all the lines out everything, put in new gas.

Drain all the oil, then put in some crummy new stuff, bar the engine over until the dizz is pointing in a direction you will remember with the body also poing in a direction you will remember, then pull the dizz and prime the oil through the engine. (Good idea to take the valve covers off and look for oil coming theough all the rockers). Put the dizz back right how you found it, (dont turn the engine over while the dizz is out or you will be timing the thing). Put the dizz back.

Pull and toss the plugs, spray some lube in the holes, turn it over a few times with the starter now (with the plugs OUT), put in some new plugs. Leave one out with a wire on it, turn the engine with it grounded check for spark.

Check gas is getting to the carb (the accel pump will tell you).

You should have gas, spark and compression...

Start and warm up, change the crummy for good oil.

now for your crummy rotten brake calipers and clutch slave cylinder likely full of water...