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Knockoff Engagement On Hub
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I am curious what members think is the safe engagement of the knockoff on the hub. I see many FIA cars with the spinners only on a few threads.
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Knockoffs
I have several threads showing. First make absolutely sure the hubs are seated in the slots on the wheel. You can still put the wheel and spinner on if they are not but that is very bad. I know from experience. lol Procedure is to bang the spinners with the lead hammer until the sound changes and it feels different. I give them another shot or two after that. The purpose of the safety wire is to check to see if the spinner is loosening not prevent it from doing so and that is why the wire is put on loose. I have seen some owners say they are using very thick safety wire but that is difficult to work with. Use a little anti-seize to prevent galling.
Fred Quote:
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I would not feel comfortable being on the road, let alone trying to track it, with only a few threads engaged. The spinner should be pretty much flush with the hub. With only a few threads engaged the likelihood of a bad outcome is increased. It's a weak connection.
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You will know right away if they are loose trust me . If you are concerned, just do a couple slow hard brakes and hard accelerations and jerk the steering wheel a couple times then get out and check your wires and pen marks. If nothing has moved you should be good to go.
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At least that FIA is using the steel wing nuts. Still, if I saw that on my car, I would machine 1/4" off the back of the wheel mounting surface. Nobody's going to notice the wheel position relative to the fender lip.
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I see this on the rear mostly. Why is this? Are most of the repos of this wheel not to the right specs. I know its hard to find them in the right widths. Most fronts are 7 1/2 instead of 6 1/2. Same on the rear 9 1/2 they should be 8 1/2. They must use a different spec casting than an original wheel. They must do this so they very the offsets for the different kits. So even if you order one to fit an original car it seems that the hub is to thick and you dont get enough thread engagement. Yes the front and rear hubs are a different length. The rears hubs are shorter so the need a thinner hub in the wheel. My hubs are to original specs. I guess you need to have new hubs made with a longer thread to get full thread engagement with most of the wheels on the market today.
I wanted to add this problem seems to be with FIA wheels The hubs are thicker than cobra wheels. |
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Does ERA offer the steel wing nuts or can you point me at a source for them? Ed |
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Here is another example, 2345 just like it came off the track 55 years ago.
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Well it looks like it was common on original 289 competition cars. Here's some pictures I took at SAAC 31.
http://www.metaphormixer.com/SAAC31VIR/s31-23.JPG http://www.metaphormixer.com/SAAC31VIR/s31-18.JPG http://www.metaphormixer.com/SAAC31VIR/s31-26.JPG http://www.metaphormixer.com/SAAC31VIR/s31-19.JPG http://www.metaphormixer.com/SAAC31VIR/s31-11.JPG |
I was told by an old Shelby employee ....
If you have 6 threads engaged you will be fine. I too have this phenom on my cars, nothing has popped yet. :) BTW, once they are loose the safety wire does not hold it on. Had that happen once too... The wire put on loose can indicate "if it gets tight" upon the pre-drive inspection a problem. Keep them THIGHT! |
Unfortunately, Peter says they are no longer available. The source manufacturer has literally died.
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I think John Bessey (Comp Classics) has them, at least the smaller 289 style.
I have a set I would trade with-for a 289 set from John Bessey……… Like the ones in the dragonsnake picture. Mine are SS and like the ones on the FIA cars above. |
May I ask who was that source? You can still get them in I think stainless steel. But i think they are cast and not forged.
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Stainless are available here:
Hubs and Accessories |
Didn't they go out of business some time ago?
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