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Safety Wire Question
I did a search and found a poll that indicated that 90% use safety wire on their knock offs. That was a clear answer.
Remaining questions - source for safety wire and the special pliers? Do I need the special pliers? Are there any videos showing typical instillation? Dave -- newbee says thanks |
Buy a good set of Safety Wire pliers. They'll be a lot less aggravating to use. Mine are Proto. There are videos on YouTube showing proper installation. I bought my wire on eBay.
Larry |
Pegasus Racing or Aircraft Spruce would be good sources.
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Recommendation for size (dia.) of wire to use?
Cheers, Glen |
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Isn't 0.041" quite large diameter for lock wire?
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Quote:
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Typical stainless lockwire is 304 alloy rated at 75,000 psi tensile strength.
0.041" is good for the wheel spinners. 0.041^2X3.1415927X75,000=396.07 lbs 0.032" is strong enough though. 0.032^2X3.1415927X75,000=241.27 lbs Both more than enough to prevent a light weight spinner from rotating during heavy braking. Please don't use the excuse "I like to leave my safety wire loose so I can see that the spinner has moved and destroyed my wheel by the time I noticed it". Its along the same lines as "I like to leave the chain binders loose on my Frontend Loader so I can see when it shifts off the trailer". Loose safeties in Aviation are simply put: An embarrassment and and subject to immediate replacement. Same goes for Neutral and Negative safeties. |
Thanks everyone for the responses. So far we have learned that we want to safety wire the knock offs and use .041 wire.
Looked on Amazon - they have pages of safety wire pliers. Do I want a 6in. or 9in. version, or does it matter? Any other features to look for such as automatic return and/or reversible? Anything else to look for? Dave -- the cart is ready |
i would upload a video but this site wont allow it... SMH
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You'll use them once or twice a year. I bought my pliers at Harbor Freight. It was the same as another brand (made by the same OEM). Get the "long" version.
They also had the same wire as Ace Hardware. |
Not sure what automatics return is. Every pair I've ever used had a spring return for the pull handle.
I use .032" wire. Larry |
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Stu. |
Remember, wire does not hold a spinner if its loose. Its a fast way to inspect before a drive. Install ia slight bit loose and then if you notice taught = GET THE HAMMER OUT!
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Knock Off School
Well we've learned a lot. In no special order; safety wire is your friend, so is anti-seize. A five pound hammer is good, six pound is better. YouTube videos explained how to use the bazaar safety wire pliers.
So I've ordered the pliers, .041 wire and a six pound lead hammer. IIRC there is some anti-seize someplace in the garage. Oh well there's always Amazon if I can't find it. Thanks to all the teachers. Dave -- hit the wings to the front to loosen - both sides |
Be very stingy with anti-seize. A very small amount goes a long way. Too much and it will squeeze out the front onto the wheel and it's a horrible thing to clean up well. It's almost better to apply not enough than too much. Fortunately my wheels were painted so it wasn't that bad, but I could see on an unpolished/unpained original type wheel that it would be horrible to remove the overflow without leaving a mess.
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Take Tony's comment to heart regarding anti-seize. It is a pain in the ass to remove and it gets everywhere. Good luck and enjoy.
Jim |
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"Contrary to popular belief, even the best job of safety wiring will contribute virtually nothing to the task of preventing a bolt from loosening to the point where effective levels of residual stress disappear. All that safety wire can do is limit the rotation of a bolt and prevent it's physical departure." Carrol Smith. I make mine snug, with very little slack. Then use the pliers to bend the wire 90*. The wire kind of looks like a Z. If the spinner comes loose, it will straighten out the wire, and I'll see it. |
[quote=bobcowan;1486203]This is correct. Safety wire isn't really strong enough to hold the spinner in place. It's just there to let you know when it's coming loose.
"Contrary to popular belief, even the best job of safety wiring will contribute virtually nothing to the task of preventing a bolt from loosening to the point where effective levels of residual stress disappear. All that safety wire can do is limit the rotation of a bolt and prevent it's physical departure." Carrol Smith. Well I guess I stand corrected and I've been following the wrong procedure these last 40+ years. I probably should contact the World's aircraft, engine and components manufacturers , lest I forget also all the Militaries Aviation and FAA ,EUSA, CAA, that Carrol Smith says and knows more than they do. I would ask who in the *uck is Carrol Smith, but that would be adding more Kool-aid to the pitcher. Darn Flat-earthers logic beats me every time. PS. Chuck Yeager died yesterday. I'm glad he didn't have to read this thread. |
Loose vs snug: It is true that in true safety applications you'd better be tight or it won't pass muster. But I can see both sides. We used wires on some parts of farm equipment and I never heard of the "put a little slack in it so you see if it tightens up to tell you that it was loose" method.
The third opinion is that if you tighten them down correctly the wire is nothing but a pretty dressing. Pound the spinner with the lead mallet until you hear it "sing". Then it's tight. Check them frequently. I used them on mine because I thought they looked cool and people would ask questions. I didn't put slack but could tell if they were changing because of the tension. Tap the wire and listen, like a guitar string. If one is loose it'll sound different. |
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