Msd

[hauss]

Just purchased a new distributor, for my car. I have a big cam, 427 stroker. Cam comes on hard at 3k rpm . Wondering how others are setting up their cars, any recommendations for springs ,bushings and timing. Purchased a bilet MSD for a 351 Windsor.

[hauss]

anyone?

[patrickt]

I just posted this on another thread, so I might as well post it here. This curve has served me well for the last 15 years. FE, iron block, aluminum heads, total timing at 35 degrees and it comes on as per this graph.

[hauss]

All in at 2500 what does your car run at 55mph . Gear,temps and rpm. I am trying to fix a high temp problem on mine.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

All in at 2500 what does your car run at 55mph . Gear,temps and rpm. I am trying to fix a high temp problem on mine.

After fully warming up, which takes a good half hour of driving, I run consistently at 85 to 90 degrees centigrade for both oil and water. On a highway run, the water will ease back down a few degrees, sometimes below 85, while the oil stays constant. The water will then go back up after getting off the highway and sitting at the stoplight. The SPAL fan will keep the water at 90 or below even on a hot day. What I tend to do after, say, an hour's drive is to turn on both my pushers and SPAL puller about a half mile from home and then, when I do that, and pull her in to the garage and turn the fans off, the heat load soak does not turn the thermostatic switch on for the SPAL fan. Yep, I just pull her in the garage, shut her off, and she doesn't make a peep.

[patrickt]

As to RPMs, my rear is 3.54, so in fourth gear every 1000 RPM is about 22 miles per hour. In fifth gear, every 1000 RPM is about 34 miles per hour. I don't really use my speedometer, I tell speed from my tachometer.

[Morris]

You guys should look into locking your distributor down so there is no movement or timing advancement and use a MSD starter saver to lower the timing when rpm’s are below 800 rpm’s...engines run so much better....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8984

[hauss]

Not sure how that would help me. car runs warm, starts no problem. Just trying to get the temps down. old distributor was hanging up full timing. I replaced all the springs weights bushings and still hangs up.Purchased new distributor. Want to set timing so I can drive car with lower temps under normal conditions

[spdbrake]

Hauss,

I remember you said you're running a Gilmer pulley setup. Those are typically 1:1 ratio crank -to-water pump.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/7....1004/10002/-1
From the tooth count its a 40 tooth pulley.


But you can get a 32 tooth
https://pitstopusa.com/i-5058161-pet...re-2-wide.html

Or a 28 tooth
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brinn...oth,28904.html
https://pitstopusa.com/i-5058160-pet...re-2-wide.html
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/64863/10002/-1

The water pump rpm increase in speed will help your cooling, especially in slow traffic/stop and go.

[hauss]

Low speed works fine, high speed car starts overheat. Found hanging distributor also, suspect water pump maybe cavitation, turning to fast ? Will look into larger diameter pulley. Have to see what I have. Not sure exactly, how to tackle this problem.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by hauss

Low speed works fine, high speed car starts overheat. Found hanging distributor also, suspect water pump maybe cavitation, turning to fast ? Will look into larger diameter pulley. Have to see what I have. Not sure exactly, how to tackle this problem.

Any chance your lower rad hose is collapsing? Is there a spring in there to prevent that?

[spdbrake]

Originally Posted by hauss

Low speed works fine, high speed car starts overheat. Found hanging distributor also, suspect water pump maybe cavitation, turning to fast ? Will look into larger diameter pulley. Have to see what I have. Not sure exactly, how to tackle this problem.

You will need a smaller water pump pulley or a large crank pulley to increase the flow.

I have not come across any larger OD Gilmer crank pulleys though.

May be dumb question, but are you sure your puller fan pulls air into the engine compartment? If the polarity is reversed it can be a pusher and work fine at low speeds and then become an effective wall at higher speeds.

[hauss]

Their are no dumb questions. No fan is working correctly found out my distributor was worn out internally purchased a new one . not sure how they are made to work on the inside all I can tell you if you grab the top where the weights are you can turn it a little and it will stay there.Tried doing the same on the new one and it rotates right back. this is done with the weights in the closed position. Used blue stop heavy silver and light blue springs set timing to 17 total timing at 4000 rpm is 37 timing go right back to 17 at 850 rpm still have to test on road also new distributor has black base old one was all aluminum except the cap witch is still red. Had a hell of a time with the new install wires wrong location and distributor was 180 off went back to square one set motor to tdc on #1 cylinder moved distributor to new location and re timed all is good car is running great still have to road test. used new Inova timing light and very happy with it.

[hauss]

Two more things, First I have a 42 tooth pulley so, it is big on the water pump. 2nd all hoses are mushy feeling to me, maybe normal for backdraftt. I do not know.I do have one question what are normal water pump rpms .

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

Two more things, First I have a 42 tooth pulley so, it is big on the water pump. 2nd all hoses are mushy feeling to me, maybe normal for backdraftt. I do not know.I do have one question what are normal water pump rpms .

Jeez, I don't know how you'd even measure the RPMs of a pulley when your engine is revving, say, 2000 RPM. Does the pulley look a lot bigger than your friends' pulleys on similar engines? If it does, then you're probably under-driving it.

[patrickt]

Here's a really scientific test. This is my engine just after being built. Does your water pump pulley look bigger, smaller or about the same as what you see here and as compared to the crank pulley?

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by hauss

Two more things, First I have a 42 tooth pulley so, it is big on the water pump. 2nd all hoses are mushy feeling to me, maybe normal for backdraftt. I do not know.I do have one question what are normal water pump rpms .

If your lower rad hose feels soft or mushy there's a good chance it's collapsing at higher RPM. If you can squeeze it by hand enough that opposing sides can (or almost) touch each other that's almost a guaranty that it's collapsing. If it was doing that I'd replace it and ensure it has a spring inside to prevent that from happening.

Hint: I've salvaged a few stainless steel springs from rotor sprinkler heads (Rainbird) that have failed. Those springs are a great fit in a radiator hose.

[patrickt]

Here's another shot with the engine in the car. I think, but have never measured it, that my water pump pulley is pretty much the same size as my crank pulley. So, that would mean it's turning at the same rate and same rpm.

[hauss]

5" on crank pulley 4 1/2" on water pump pulley. looking for backdraft hoses may just remove and bring to napa auto and see what they can come up with

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

5" on crank pulley 4 1/2" on water pump pulley.

That doesn't sound like the problem. You know, in most of the "I'm running too hot" threads that we've had around here (and when there wasn't something wrong with the engine) it usually came down to either the radiator was undersized, the airflow was not being directed through the radiator or the fans were not moving enough CFM.