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As long as you have a little welding experience (an afternoon of practice), you will be fine. A small 140/180 unit will be perfect to move and reweld the thin 3/4 tubework supporting the body as needed. It's all pretty easy.. just add trial fitting and patience. The MK4 FFR body is the only one you would want if you go that route. The belly needs rework to look right, but that's easy enough too. Be picky about the body and chassis you choose. The rest is just supporting structure and aluminum.
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On Facebook, I recently saw a car for sale, black with gold stripes. I think it was originally a Fiberglass CSX that had a aluminum body installed by Panel Craft. I doubt you would save money by doing it that way.
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1965 Shelby Cobra · Convertible · Driven 3,850 miles CSX 4872 started life as a fiberglass body car, Panel Craft built a custom aluminum body and inner panels for it. The car was built to resemble CSX3010. It is powered by a 428 PI motor and TKO 600 trans. The car has tons of custom features by Cobra Automotive including the hand built racing wind screen. The car is wrapped and can easily put back to a brushed finish. New Kidney custom wheels and Avon tires are just a few of the custom features. A very unique Cobra priced just above what fiberglass CSX cars are bringing. No negative comments please if it’s not for you just scroll on by. Serious inquiries only The asking price is $185,000. |
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http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/cobr...fia-build.html http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/cobr...289-build.html http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fact...-slabside.html |
Buy don't build
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If you're thrilled by the idea of building your own car, buy a complete kit, either FFR, ERA or one of many others. Myself, I started with ERA 427 and never looked back. In kit form, you don't have to wait two years. All I had Peter do was powder coat the frame and bond the body. He is very easy to work with and everything fits. It still took me two years, but I know the car inside out and I built it. Took the same two years to complete, but that was fifteen years ago and I have no regrets. I also made new friends at ERA. I'm sure there are plenty more kits available, but none will look as original as an ERA. They also build a 289 replica that's out of this world. Good luck.
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By the time you are ready to fit the body your son will be old enough to help...
The CSX 4000 and Kirkham bodies have different support frames. You would have to cut that frame off with the body and weld the new one on. Kirkham once supplied ally bodies including the support frame. Pic shows a CSX 4000 chassis. For starters, the ally body has more supports in the door areas and a different scuttle frame which holds the door locks. However, on a more home builder oriented Cobra, like a RAM or a Contemporary where the body, boot insert and passenger tub is ONE piece, you can lift it off. After you stripped dozens of items. And obviously the wheelbase must be the same. |
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Dominik,
Very nice rendering of the 4000 series chassis looks like you have everything on it in the right place Tom |
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Tony said it! I bought a well sorted out EM - built by the factory on a special order from the original buyer. Don't regret it at all. For sure, I'm still working on some minor tweaks (oil thermostat, oval Cobra air filter, etc.) but the car has been drivable and handles great as she sits. If I ever go looking again (Coupe maybe?) I'll take the same path. Shop around. Be patient, and get an inspection by an experienced Cobraphile if possible. Best regards, Bill |
CAD Drawings
If I were to attempt this project, which I wouldn't, the first thing I would try to obtain would be a dimensioned multi-view CAD drawing of the parts involved. Those would give you an idea of what you are in for. I hope you have experience/access with/to a torch, welder, plasma cutter, industrial bending brake, full size lift and a body dolly.
Here is a link to a site that shows the profiles of all the major brands. Check it out. Compare car profiles Fred |
You know, I bet a plasma cutter would work great on a fiberglass car.:cool:
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A smart person would use it on the frame.
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Yeah, it's that pesky conductivity problem again. My fiberglass grounds just don't work as well as the frame ones do.%/
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Then you should stick with a hacksaw.
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