Please Help Value Car
Hi everyone, new guy here and my first post. I've been researching Cobras for a little bit, as I've gotten a wild hair to get a new toy. I've done my due diligence, but having a hard time finding comps on a car I'm interested in. Hoping this forum can help me value it. The pics are of the actual car. Again, this is not mine, it's one I'm looking at buying.
Build Specs: -2015 Ultimate Classic Cars (UCC) GT-427; just under 3k miles -Proformance 347 crate engine w/ Holley carb & MSD ignition -TKO 600 5-spd -Mcleod Clutch -Ford 9" -Koni front suspension -Wilwood brakes -LED headlights / tail lights Paint is a solid 95-98%, but tires are 7 years old at this point. Everything that was chrome that is now black (wheels, rollbars, etc) is just plasti-dip. The headers and side pipes are the only thing that are actually ceramic coated black. What would you value this at? Thanks in advance!!! https://i.imgur.com/WQRGATK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vVcPH8w.jpg https://i.imgur.com/goNBVBX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bpT2QbJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/U35G674.jpg |
This one sold March 2022 on Bring-A-Trailer.
Should give you a baseline for comparison. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/ul...-427-roadster/ On a Cobra tires after 5 years should be replaced. It would be a point of negotiation if owner had not already factored it in the price. |
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Specs on engine wheels and tires interior/exterior color combination Rollbar configuration will all play a factor in how much the car is worth. Bill S. |
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Forget about BAT as shown in the link above, as that is an auction site where two people can throw the entire bio-metrics of the market into a tizzy. As the car sits right now, figure $28,500-$32,000, No wipers, no heater, no top, wires hanging out of dash where a stereo system was going to be installed, what else is missing off a car that needs to be safe to drive. In addition, most people looking for a Cobra will get turned off by the roll bars (not just two, but the poorly laid out bends), quick jacks that are 8-10" further out than they should be, bolt on wheels, and interior/dash layout. But if it makes you happy, and the price is right, go for it. If not, there is a post of mine named "How to buy a used Cobra", read it before you do anything else.
In closing, the bottom line is simple, you get what you pay for. Just my two cents worth. Bill S. |
The quick jacks should be a relatively easy fix. The roll bars will be more difficult. The interior is what it is. The problem is that in today's world, a sub $35k car can easily sell in the 50's.%/
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That’s an auxiliary wire for a phone that you see. I missed the wipers. There’s no tops available for this particular car that I’m aware of.
Can you explain what you mean about poorly laid out bends on the rollbars? |
The braces to the hoops should not have a funky angle to them. Dual roll bars, should you choose that option, should look like this.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...iving_Away.jpg |
Just checked UCC and that looks like their factory design for the roll bars?
And they are bolted to the frame. |
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That’s a good look on the “correct” roll bars.
Black foam insulation held on with electrician tape… What really looks good is a colored floaty noodle from Dollar General. $45K is the new $35K. |
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Bill S. |
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A straight brace is functional. That bend in the brace will negate any support. The purpose of the brace is to keep the roll bar straight. The bend in the brace will cause the brace to fail first then the roll bar will fold back. |
90% of the roll bars in Cobras are cosmetic, the hoops won’t do crap in a real crash. If you’re seriously tracking these cars you need a full on cage. Any bolt in roll bar is cosmetic IMO. I had a backdraft once and the passenger roll bar was barely bolted in , finger tight and basically worthless. UCC uses actual DOM roll bar tubing( the old Lone Star design) but they’re still bolted to the frame so no better or worse than what else is out there.
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Bill S. PS: Is that your car in the pictures above? |
MM is correct. But the sad truth about Cobra roll bars is that far more serious injuries are caused by BFT to the head resulting from relatively minor impacts than from flipping the car and collapsing the roll bar. :cool:
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As for value, these Cobras are not real Cobras. They are replicas and they are only worth what someone is willing to pay. They are no more valuable than a pretty rat rod. I own a ERA 427, but I have no dillusions. They are composite automobiles, something hand built to replicate something else. Maybe worth the sum of their parts. Just my opinion.
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The only greater safety illusion in Cobras is shoulder harnesses attached to a wimpy car-wide cross brace that could be bent with tug on it from the back side. And the fact that unless you're very short harnesses mounted there are lower than your shoulders (that's not good in case you didn't know it.) |
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and getting tagged from behind, you're trading whiplash for BFT when your head makes contact. I recall the roll hoop was always intended to work in conjunction with a safety helmet to mitigate BFT when things go wrong. |
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