Superformance With 427/Aviaid Pan

msinghof · #1 (**permalink**) 03-30-2003, 07:52 PM

Just finished a long weekend of getting a 427 top-oiler (Southern Automotive built) into SPF#1557. The most obivious problem and probably the most impossible to work around thus far is that the oil pan drain plug and oil temp plugs are in line with the stab bar. Is this just my pan or has anyone else run into this? My pan measures exactly 5.75" from the flange to the pan bottom, and if it were a 1/4" deeper, it would clear the bottom of the stab bar. Appreciate any feedback for solutions!

Great Asp · #2 (**permalink**) 03-30-2003, 07:59 PM

On my first SPF I had the deeper Aviad pan, but it cracked.

I have the Canton I purchased from Dynamic now. It seems to be a better pan than the Aviad I had, but you will find guys that love Aviad, and hate Canton.

I would call Mark at Dynamic.

Eric 1380

msinghof · #3 (**permalink**) 03-31-2003, 01:43 PM

The best suggestion so far from Dynamic is to fabricate two aluminum blocks to fit between the left and right sway bar brackets and frame which will increase the distance between bar and pan. Has anyone else done this?

Alex Donghi · #4 (**permalink**) 04-01-2003, 08:20 AM

Why dont you call Bill Parham. Some how he got my FE in a SPF.

msinghof · #5 (**permalink**) 04-01-2003, 09:01 AM

Alex,
Go out to the garage and look under your car. Tell me if you see blocks between the frame and sway bar mounts that drop the bar down. Thanks!

Alex Donghi · #6 (**permalink**) 04-04-2003, 05:16 PM

I emailed you a picture today of the pan on my car. I also went by Southern auto today and mentioned to Bill your problem. He wanted to know who you are to help you. Please give him a call. He is going to Florida fishing next week but he will be back the following week. If there is one thing the Parham's will do is back there engines up with service. Please call him he wants to hear from you. If anybody wants ill post the picture but the underside needs cleaning yikes

Alex Donghi · #7 (**permalink**) 04-09-2003, 12:38 PM

ms
You figuer this out yet?

Mr.Fixit · #8 (**permalink**) 04-09-2003, 02:29 PM

it would clear the bottom of the stab bar

what the heck is a "stab bar"?

mikiec · #9 (**permalink**) 04-09-2003, 03:00 PM

Do you mean sway bar?

Mike

msinghof · #10 (**permalink**) 04-10-2003, 03:03 PM

Stab bar...or stabalizer bar...or sway bar. Here in Detroit if you work on new car programs with any of the auto manufacturers it is often referred to as the "stab" bar instead of sway bar. Chassis engineering lingo I guess.

As for the SPF, I had to machine up aluminum blocks to drop the sway bar 1.50 inches away from frame to clear the aviaid pan drain plug and oil temp sensor

Mr.Fixit · #11 (**permalink**) 04-10-2003, 03:47 PM

You might not have to make such spacers. There is quite a bit of lattitude in the SPF's as to where the engine finally gets bolted down. They give you the opportunity to move the engine forwards, backwards, left, right, up, and such with their engine mount pedestals. Sometimes header fit and such dictate the engine's final resting place. See if you can move the engine back 1/2" in the chassis. I would never bolt the engine in place on a SPF until after I had the headers and sidepipes bolted up to the motor, they often dictate the need to move it a C.H. this way or that. In your case, the oil pan may be the biggest interference item.

Sizzler · #12 (**permalink**) 04-10-2003, 04:13 PM

I have spacers, have had them for a while, with no problems. Mine are at least 1.5" thick.

For what it's worth.

msinghof · #13 (**permalink**) 04-10-2003, 08:04 PM

Thanks Mr Fixit. Yes, you are right about not tightening mounts down before checking sidepipe alignment. That is what put me in the position to have to lower the sway bar. I also had to slot the trans mount holes towards the passenger side to better align the drive shaft (and pipes within the body opening). As for the engine mounts, they were already in their most rearward position within the frame plate slots.

Appreciate everyones feedback...thanks!

aviaid · #14 (**permalink**) 06-25-2003, 01:36 AM

Anyone having trouble fitting one of our pans in a Superformance car, I would like to have some pictures of the installation.
On the pan we build for the 429/460 we moved the drain plug and temp sender bung to the rear of the sump. No one has as yet mentioned the problem with FE's in the cars. But I will talk with Bill @ Southern about this.
If it can be fixed by moving the sway bar I would like to know how best to do this. If necessary we can install a new temp bung and drain plug into an existing pan at the rear panel. Or we can build some pans like that, even one or two at a time, with enough notice.

John

email: aviaid@aol.com