418 stroker specs - please review 4 me
 

I am not an engine guy so I did the best I could picking out the engine below. It is from the Engine Factory with a few customized options. Do you guys have any suggestions or recommendations? Should I change anything? I need to use an older block for NJ regs. The car will be mainly street driven but I still want a hot engine. :D

Thanks, Rich

• Blue printed machined 351W version Early Casting Block 69-70 Vintage Year with Block Girdle Installed Painted High Temperature Silver
• Brand New Scat Forged Steel 4.100 Stroke Crankshaft
• H Beam connecting Rods 6.200 "in Length with ARP heavy duty Connecting Rod Bolts
• Power Forged 10.5 to 1 Compression SRP
Flat Top Performance Pistons
• J & E Chrome Moly Ring Set
• Heavy Duty Double Roller Dynagear Timing Set
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Retrofit Camshaft
Cam Power Range (2500-6500 RPM)
• Clevite H series Racing Bearings
• Aluminum Fast burn Polished Edelbrock Victor Jr. cylinder heads with Port Matched Intake Runners 2.05 X 1.60 stainless valves, hardened valve locks & chrome moly retainers HD Springs
• Chrome Moly Hardened pushrods
• High Intensity Scorpion True Roller Rockers
• Melling High Volume Oil pump with Hardened FMS Drive Rod.
• Complete Fel-pro Gasket set
• Heavy Duty Harmonic Balancer
• New SFI Approved 10.5 inch Standard Flywheel
• Aluminum Timing cover

Special Canton Oil pan supplied by Customer

• Polished Aluminum Finned Cobra Taller Profile Valve Covers
•New Fuel Lines and Gas Filter
• Hot Run tested, Timing Set and Carburetor. Adjusted
• Video Footage with engine running in our test Stand
• Polished Edelbrock Vic Jr. Single Plane Port Matched Manifold
• Edelbrock 800 cfm 4 barrel Carburetor with electric choke
• Electronic Accel Billet Distributor & high voltage Coil
• New High Flow Polished Aluminum Water pump & Fuel Pump
• Champion Spark plugs and 8mm Black ACCEL Spiral Super Stock Wires
• New Chrome Thermostat Housing
• Chrome Air Cleaner
• Chrome 100 amp. Alternator and Polished Brackets
• Complete March Pulley Setup with Serpentine-Belt Installed

Complete Stainless Steel Bolt Kit for all the dress up parts. Intake, Oil pan, Timing Cover, Valve Covers ect.

Dyno-Tune Test Engine and Provide all spec.readings (This is entire extra day to test run and tune )

We would need approx. 8 weeks to prepare for the Early Casting 69-70 Year Block and Also the Polished Heads and Intake take time to get in too.


$10,475.00 + 6% tax = $11,103.50


1-800-704-5385
Engine Factory Inc. www.fordcobraengines.com

Rich, I went through a similar exercise recently and had a similar engine built. There's a picture of it in my gallery still on the stand. I went with the "show and go" approach. Looks great, sounds great and certainly feels great!

Only thing that could be questioned, IMHO, is the "high volume" oil pump.

More distributor gear/cam gear problems caused by those than anything else.
Unless the engine is being built with "racing" bearing clearances, (wider than for street) I would suggest that the a std oil pump would be just fine, and reduce the strain on the distributor drive gear.
My own 408 stroker is very similar spec to yours, std oil pump works just fine, in fact I suspect the pressure relief valve on it is open most of the time, suggesting more than adequate volume being produced.
Would be interested in other opinions on this.

Im sure the Engine factory will button up everything for you. What tranny are you using?

I am extremely close to you in Morris Plains. If you want to take a look at my car for a reference, or shoot the breeze about the cars you are more than welcome anytime....BTW are you the guy that I met on the Green in Morristown with Bill, MrM? I pulled up with the white Discovery. Anyway, when you put the motor in, if you are looking for company you only have to ask once.

Unless you are going to run electronic FI, I would go with the 9.6-1 pistons. I can show you a set of 10.5 -1 pistons that came out of my 408 running pump gas.
You may be able to get by on the street with those pistons but if you ever do any serious track time you will get serious preignition unless you are running 110 octane race gas.
I know a lot of guys will tell you you can run 10.5 on the street without race gas and maybe you can but almost all track cars with that comp. are running race gas.

I argued with my engine builder when he said run race gas and I told him lots of guys on Club Cobra run that comp without any troubles. I didn't listen and I had to replace all pistons within 1,000 miles.

Check the compression of any new high performance cars and see how many are running 10.5-1 ,and also check how many are running a carb.

RD

Ditto what RACER said about compression. My builder delivered my 434 with 9.5:1 and still recommended a 25% race gas mix for the track. Even at 9.5:1, I have more low end torque than I can hook up with 13" slicks.
Scott

Static compression is not the only thing to look at when determining what is streetable. You have to look at the valve events of the cam and see how much overlap there is as well. A cam big enough for a 408 should have at least some overlap which will bleed off some of that 10.5:1 compression. You'll have to take that into account as well.

I've got 264I/272E @.050, .680 lift and 106* LS. That is a whole bunch of overlap. It bleeds off enough cylinder pressure at street rpm's that detonation is not a problem, even when I had 11:1. At rpm's that it is run at on the track or dyno, that same cam is making cylinder pressure high enough to require 25% race gas mix to be safe.

Thanks for the advice guys, I will run the ideas by them and see what they think. I am planning on using the Tremec TKO II, seems to be a popular choice.

I live in the beautiful Pinelands of South Jersey However, I was not "on the Green" in Morristown. Also, Thanks for the invite and offer to help. (the Cobra brotherhood is the best).