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Back on the road (finally!)...
This is (hopefully) the last of my three-part segment on my dying ignition/vapor-lock issue from several weeks ago.
I ultimately traced the problem to one of two sources: it was either the magnetic pick-up (a $16 part) on the MSD billet distributor, or a bad ground wire connection from the MSD box to the frame. I ended up having to re-crimp two connections on the ground wire. I plan to completely re-do this connection with soldered fasteners. The MSD box was diagnostic checked at the factory (free - I learned it was still under warranty!) and it was fine. I ended up replacing the Blaster 2 coil, as well as the distributor cap and rotor while I had everything apart. At least now I have a spare coil on the shelf (I also bought a spare magnetic pick-up, too). But one fixed problem has now led to another.....tach bounce. Never had this before, so I'll have to check the tach wire connections and go from there. All SPF's after #680 or so have the correct tach to work with MSD ignitions, so I don't believe I'll need some sort of ballast resistor. Lord, I can't stand electrical gremlins!!! -Deano |
Watch out for the coil
I had a nagging problem that appeared to be "fuel related" but turned out to be a shorting coil. The Blaster was mounted horizontally and enough oil leaked out to cause a intermittent short.
Replaced the coil (mounted standing up) and now it never misses a beat |
I have fought similar demons with my MSD Dist and finally I had my cCobra at Keith Crafts shop in Texas a couple of weekends ago. They found that the pickup was actually set by the factory with too much of a gap. Rob the tech removed my dist and loosened the two bolts that hold the pickup in place and moved it over closer to the rotor. Re-installed my dist and whalla Engine starts first time all the time, even when it is hot . I also replaced everything electrical under the hood just to find out that the coil, Dist cap, ignition box solved my problem.
Lessons learned sure get expensive. Clois |
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