Two must have tools for bearing removal...

[RedBarchetta]

Planning on replacing the crankshaft bearings in your engine WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR?!? You will be hardpressed to complete the job without these two jewels. The tweaked cotter pin (lubed!) was instrumental in removing the saddle bearings, while the heavy duty nail was instrumental in getting the new saddle bearings installed. In both instances, inserting either tool into the oiling hole of the crank journal and gently hand rotating the crank allowed for a slick way to perform this type of surgery. Take it slow and use plenty of lube and you won't scratch or nick the crank journals. Maybe if you have gorilla arms or are working with three friends you won't need these tools. But I was working alone so they were the difference.

The good news is that after swapping in a fresh set of crank and rod bearings (and new oil pump), my cold PSI is up to 60 and the hot psi (212F oil temp) has settled in around 40 (both at 800-900 idle). Running PSI under moderate throttle is steady at 50-55. Prior to the swap, my slightly worn bearings (a little copper starting to show on the mains) were registering barely 45-46 cold and under 20 hot. The crank looked good, so just keeping my fingers crossed going forward. I also installed an adjustable Melling pump, which actually allowed me to show 73-74psi cold on the first start...I ended up dropping the pan (a second time) and adjusting it back down so that I wouldn't place undue stress on the distributor gear and pump drive shaft.

Speaking of dropping the pan, another trick...install 4 studs on opposite corners of the block and hand tighten the nuts as you raise the pan into place. Then attach the other fasteners, then pull the four studs and replace with normal fasteners (if you are using standard ARP hardware). Made a one man job A WHOLE LOT EASIER.

-Dean