When Stroker Motors Go Bad.... - Page 6

blykins · #**101** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 10:32 AM

Yes, you're right to a certain point.

But with large cams come lots of reversion due to overlap. That translates into very crappy street manners....loading up, loping at regular highway speeds, etc.

If it's not a race motor and it's not running wide open all the time, you need some power down low. Otherwise you're driving a Honda S2000.

Did JE say that .015" could be milled off the top of their pistons?

They have a 30cc dish piston for your bore/stroke/rod length. If you could have them milled, you'd be in a whole lot better spot.

BDR561 · #**102** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 10:41 AM

Yes it is a 72 block. Casting D2AE-6015 BA15. I was told it was a 9.480 deck height, if not and it is a 9.503 you just made day...

onefastmustang · #**103** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 10:46 AM

Yes.. the deck height for a 72 is 9.503. Only the 69 had the shorter height. There is a lot of great info about the 351 over on corral.net since it is a favorite block over there.

fsstnotch · #**104** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 11:07 AM

According to this site, you could very well have a 9.480 block
http://www.cavalryoffroad.com/SBFenginespecs.html

notice the remarks section for the D2AE

Quote:

YEAR CASTING BORE DECK REMARKS
1971-74 D2AE-BA
.............D4AE-DA 4.00" 9.503" 1971-73 deck height is 9.480"

351 blocks are really a dime a dozen! Go find a new block. Of course, then you have to pay for all the machining again, but you might be better off? find a 351 out of a 94+ truck and you've got a roller block and can now run roller lifters rather than flat.

onefastmustang · #**105** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 11:22 AM

Thats interesting.. I have a Motors mechanics manual here that says only the 69 has that height. I usually take what I find on the web with a grain of salt since it can be wrong so much.m I do agree that maybe getting a new block might be in order though since you never know with that one now.

BDR561 · #**106** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 11:48 AM

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh.............

fsstnotch · #**107** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 11:54 AM

BDR.. don't get upset yet.... I have been finding SOME conflicting info. I'm going to find a definite answer.

fsstnotch · #**108** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 12:04 PM

Nope, it is in fact true that the 71-73 D2AE-BA is 9.480 the 69-70's are also 9.480 but they are code C9OE-8.

If it were me, I'd look for an F4TE block and start over. Knock everything you have in that block out and put it up for sale on corral forums or here. Sounds like a good candidate for a 357. Only 400 miles on the .030 bore. as long as no damage was done.

Jerry Clayton · #**109** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 12:33 PM

561

You really need to do a few things

1---measure the popup/deck ht of your pistons at tdc

2---check the timing of the camshaft

3---If the cam timing isn;t where it is supposed to be. correct it and then check Valve/piston clearance correctly and USE one of your compressed gaskets

4---if the cam is out of time and correcting it gets you a minium of .080 exhaust and at least .020 on the intake---
4a---buy one new piston and rings that matches your set
4b---buy one new cylinder head
4c---eight new exhaust valves. one new intake
4d---reassemble your engine and go to the event

5---if you can't get v/p clearance, get a new cam of lessor lift/duration and do 4a-d

Jerry

BDR561 · #**110** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 12:41 PM

HJ,

Would you trust my existing pistons that have been rapped on? I will be check clearances this afternoon/evening

Jerry Clayton · #**111** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 12:47 PM

If they are forged pistons and the ring lands aren't hammered so that the rings are tight in the groove, I'd put a piston in it and a head and go to the line for the next round---Did you do that search from my PM?

Jerry

Jac Mac · #**112** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 12:50 PM

The ONLY block measurement you can rely on is the one You take with a large micrometer or vernier caliper. The rest is Hocus Pocus. Ordering pistons,rods,cranks without knowing the actual block height is a recipe for disaster,& you already have one of those.

Jac Mac

Excaliber · #**113** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 12:51 PM

I took my block to a machine shop and had the deck hieght measured from the crank centerline. I tried measuring it myself but couldn't get consistent results. I then had the block decked and with all the corrected measurements in hand orderd my custom (no return) pistons.

You just can't measure this stuff to many times!

BDR561 · #**114** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 04:54 PM

Here's the info we have been waiting for....

Ex valve to piston clearance is: .039!!!!

The deck height must be 9.5 on my block as the current pistons with a 1.280 C/D are .005 in the bore... (9.5 - 1.280 - 6.2 - 2.0 - .015 = .005)

blykins · #**115** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 04:57 PM

Well at least you know that the Probes will work now....and you don't have to run some silly head gasket and an overly large cam.

And you have some recourse against the builder.

turnpike boy · #**116** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jac Mac

The ONLY block measurement you can rely on is the one You take with a large micrometer or vernier caliper. The rest is Hocus Pocus. Ordering pistons,rods,cranks without knowing the actual block height is a recipe for disaster,& you already have one of those.

Jac Mac

This is gospel. Since the motor is likely out of the car now anyway, drop it into the pickup or into the trunk and get your butt to a decent local machine shop - and PAY them to do the measurements.

Jac Mac · #**117** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

Well at least you know that the Probes will work now....and you don't have to run some silly head gasket and an overly large cam.

And you have some recourse against the builder.

Not until the ACTUAL Cam Timing is checked and the possibility of damage to the crank key is eliminated. If the cam timing is correct,then and only then do you have a case with the seller/builder.

Jac Mac

Jerry Clayton · #**118** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 07:16 PM

And what is the intake clearance? You haven't verified the cam timing as yet-if it is even a little retarded you will have clearance issue at a few degrees before tdc.

I don't believe you have any recourse with the builder as it seems you bought an engine at a greatly reduced fire sale and you got what you got----

Jerry

BDR561 · #**119** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 07:23 PM

Intake was .054

BDR561 · #**120** (**permalink**) 10-17-2007, 07:28 PM

Jerry,

You're right.. However, I wouldn't have purchased it with a know short coming/defect/mistake in the build...

Watching the video again has verified most items and he made the mistake of not taking his measurments in the critical areas. I will verify the crank key and the actual cam timing, but expect them to be in order.

Looks like I will do the CC 35-772-8