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Salisbury problem?
After a short test drive (two blocks) the rear end was making some noise. The car now has .4 miles total on it. When the car was pushed into the garage it was difficult to move. The oil level is 1 inch below the filler hole. Any thoughts?
John |
What kind of noise? Clunking on turns? Whining? Grinding?
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I'll talk to the "mechanic". I know it was straight line and made noise.
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My car makes like a snapping or wratcheting sounds on low speed turns. I don't like it personally, but people tell me it's normal. Not sure if that's what you've got.
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The mechanic said it was a grinding rumble (not metalic) and as he drove, things seem to get tighter as if the brakes were dragging. As I said it was hard to push into the garage.
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The clicking and "light" noises usually are a signal to change the hypoid 90 weight and don't forget the friction modifier. Gringing noises are usally an alignment issue in the salsbury and rear center should be opened up and checed. Fluid level should be just at plug in salsbury. Any over flow will be disposed of in the overflow/breather tube
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Here's the latest. Rear end fluid is one inche below filler hole.It's up on stands and the rear wheels move freely in reverse but forward it takes two hands to move them. Brakes aren't engaging therefore it seems likely to be the diff.
The question is which part of the diff. Limited slip or ring and pinion. The drive shaft doesn't move fore and aft when the direction of the tire rotation is reversed which I'm told is good. ANY THOUGHTS!!! HELP. John |
John,
What does Roger say about this? Can't he just ship you out a new differential? Given that the car is brand new I would think that this is more his problem than yours, no? At least I would hope so. Good luck and hope you get it all sorted out - from what I've seen in pictures the car is spectacular.:) |
Roger has been very fair with any issues. Hopefully Gordon Levy can figure out what's going on. I'm taking the car to his shop in Maracopa tomorrow AM.
John |
Good to hear he's standing behind you and the car. Good luck at Levy's - hopefully you can get this all sorted out and start enjoying that beast.
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Took the tunnel off and when the rear wheels are moved in the forward direction the aft end of the drive shaft moves up a 1/4 inch. Ok in reverse.
Diff. needs to come out. John |
Stub shaft bearing John
double ugly John drain the rear fluid and check for silver metal pieces in the fluid or on the plug. If there is metal one of the stub shaft bearing blown or possible carrier bearing. I blew one at R&G in 99 with 3 miles on the new rear. I had a pro guy rebuild the center carrier. I now do this myself. The rear fells like it want to lockup. Mine rolled backwards fine but would bind going forward. After you get done with the rear add a rear support cover to the rear. There are 2 bolts that put low pressure on the caps for the carrier and stop the caps walking. The Jag rear is the same as a dana 44 that was in CJ-5 jeeps. I know, I broke 3 rears, there are good for 450 hp. You can get a locker with a 30 spline that is about 25% stronger than the 27 spline in you rear. CWI sells a kit for the change. I got just the stub axles and did the rest myself. Mark Williams will make these stub shafts for you also. Not sure on the price, they are good for about 600hp. Chromemoly shafts. LPW sell the carrier cover, just swap over the breather tube. Rick L.
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The %$##@&* yoke wasn't tightened. After a couple hours of removing the seats and tunnel plus driveshaft found the nut on the yoke hadn't been tighened. UGGGGH. Hopefully there are no chunks of metal in the diff oil. I only have a mile on the car so hopefully it's OK.
John |
John,
You mean the main pinion to yoke nut? Boy, if you drove it long enough to make it bind up and sieze like that in a brand new car, I sure wouldn't take the chance. I'd be looking for a whole new differential assembly. Even if you get it to work now, what's going to happen 5000 or so miles down the road when you're on your own with no one to foot the bill but yourself? It sucks for now because you're understandably eager to get the car going, but in the long term you're almost certainly better off to get another new one now while it's covered. Good luck. |
Drain and check the diff oil carefully for particles. Hopefully, there won't be anything.
Larry |
There were some steel filings but no chunks in the oil.
John |
The rear needs to come out of the car, and be set up. The pinion nut sets your lash and preload, and that's done with the rear cover off, checking the gears with dial indicator, and you need to check the nut torque, gear lash, and the drag torque. It's not just a nut that holds the flange on.
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Quote:
Your car is too great a car to have to live with those things in the back of your mind. What happened isn't right - I would want to make it right, and right now. It's nobody's fault, the best of talent and intentions make mistakes sometimes. Just fix it correctly and spend the next few years enjoying that great car with a clear head and peace of mind.:) |
I'm not sure I agree 100%, although it would be the best route. I think I'd torque the nut down, clean the diff out and drive it to see if it works. If it doesn't work, you still have to rebuild it either way.
Larry |
Sal's post is perfectly accurate, except for the logic according to Roger Bollick. Once the diff is set up, the pinion nut just holds the flange on and pre-loads the bearings. The shims are already in there and everything is
adjusted as best as possible. The locknut isn't used for building them, its the last thing that's installed. |
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