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So what did I fry?
Long story short....i'm and idiot who didn't take the time to grab a flashlight and double check the negative and positive posts on my new battery and put the cables on reverse. Now the car won't start so what in the world did I fry in my system. I switched to a fresh battery, replaced all of the fuses, but it still won't start. It makes noise but it doesn't want to turn over. The gauges on the dash come alive when I try to start the car so there seems to be some juice flowing. I think my next move will be to replace the alternator. Any ideas?
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What do you mean it "makes noise?" Does it crank, but not catch and start, or does it just make clickety noises and not actually crank? Or does it make some other noise?
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Yah i believe it cranks, but won't catch and start
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Usually reversing polarity will cause problems in your alternator (usually the rectifier, not a huge deal) so keep that in mind once you get it running should it not charge. That shouldn't keep it from starting though. Do you have a MSD unit, regular ignition, or what?
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Electronic stuff (read MSD box, etc) does not like reversed polarity. You probably fried your electronic ignition assuming that is what you are running.
Did you turn the key "on" with the battery cables reversed? Did you try to crank the starter with the battery cables reversed? A better description of what it is doing now would help. Even if you have fried the alternator, that would eventually result in the battery going down but it shouldn't prevent the engine from starting now if the battery is fully charged. Wayne |
Umm....I'm not really sure. What do they look like and where would i find it? I just looked under the hood and i have "Unilite electronic ignition systm" is that the same thing? I also have what might be a MSD from what pictures i could find online. Its a red box on the inside shelf of the engine bay. It may be an amp or something though.
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yes i tried to start it with the cables switched. Nothing happened, no noise or anything popping. Now it seems like it want's to start, but it won't catch and turnover.
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You could run the Unilight directly to the coil (bypass the MSD) and start from there.
If it's a Unilight, is this a points distributor thats converted? If it is put points and condenser back in, feed this back into your MSD to verify it's not fried as well. Get a voltmeter on the power leads to verify power and trace the wires back to make sure you didn't miss any inline fuses. |
To be absolutely honest with you, I think diagnosing this problem might be over your head, even with our help. If you're lucky, there's a fusible link that you've missed. If you're unlucky, then you fried whatever box it is you're running. I recommend getting a mechanic on site, or towing your vehicle to a garage, and having someone do this job for you. No offense.
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"Yah i believe it cranks, but won't catch and start" I'm not trying to be an a$$, but does the motor turn over or not? |
You've had a lot of good advice. Take it to a shop before the condition worsens..
Dave |
Thanks for all of the advice guys. I'm not offended at all. I know i'm in over my head on this thing, I just figured I would atleast attempt to rectify the situation myself. I tried..it didnt' work...now off to a professional. Thanks for the help
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rtstrack,
Just a fyi.. With what you've described there's many things that could be wrong.. 1) shorted MSD (if you have one). 2) bad Mallory uni-light optical sensor (I would rather have a sister in a whore house than use a Uni-Light). 3) bad starter Bendix/starter ( we never really knew if the engine turns over .. sorry, your terminology was lacking.) 4) bad fusible link. 5) bad ignition switch/circuit malady. 6) bad starter solenoid (if remotely mounted) 7) low battery voltage ...just to name a few. To eliminate each one would require a certain varying amount of technical expertise that, no offense, you seem to be lacking. If any of us thought you had a pig's chance in hell at fixin' this we'd roll up our sleeves and jump right in there with ya!!:) Please do us the honor and let us know what the problem is when it's found. Dave |
Please let us know the results of the garage findings.
I did something smilar with one of my toys Mazda Miata. It's been sitting in the garage for a while without use. For Christmas my wife gave me a portable charger. Full of vigor and the determination to use this thing for the first time, I mistakendly switch polarity. Fortunately for me the only thing that got screwed up was the portable charger (it got really hot..). I took the receipt from my wife and exchaged it for a new one at Sears. The Mazda starts-up without any problem.... Good luck, let us know what happen... Dex.. |
The question no one is asking is
"why were you replacing the battery in the first place?? What were the symptoms that caused you to replace the battery? Are the symptoms now the same as before you pulled out the old battery? |
I thought a few more details might help. The gauges have juice, the lights come on, the fans can be turned on as well. I definetly hear a click when I turn the key in the ignition and when I start it, it sounds like a battery thats starting to die. After i stop trying to start it i can hear the spinning from what i believe would be the starter. I know it can't be a bad battery, because #1 its brand new, and #2 I tried to jump it with a charger (little portable jumper pack) just in case. I just got the car and it came with a dead battery. I jumped it and it would start right up. I obviously needed to replace it, so thats how this all got started. I don't think its relevant, but I'll throw it out there just in case. The car cables have small loops that went on a 5/16th screw-in top post battery. I couldn't find a replacement battery with a threaded post, so i got a standard top post battery and bought connectors (the typical ends to a battery cable) that would slide on the post and in turn i could thread the looped cables onto one of the screws on the connector. I doubt this helps much, but I thought I'd try. Thanks for all the help
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-Dean |
If your connections at the battery are bad they will heat up after a couple seconds cranking. Carefully feel around the terminals after cranking the engine. If you've got bad connections, they will heat up, a lot!! (touch, don't grab)
Your ignition system setup is somewhat complicated, if your not sure how to bypass the MSD then you'll have a hard time finding what's popped. If it's not the MSD you'd need to swap both the coil (least likely) and the Unilite (most likely). Do you have the instructions for the Unilite? - wire the coil directly to it. If none of this makes sense, get a friend or a pro to find it. |
An easy way to see if the ignition system is functioning would be to remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, attach a spark plug and aly the body of the plug on the engine, preferebly away from the carburetor (is it carbureted or fuel injected) and then have someone try to start it while you look at the plug for spark. If there is no spark start looking at the Unilite and ignition box. If this sounds "Greek" to you; call a good garage before you go any further.
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