Cobra engines
 

I would like to know what the latest opinion is on small block engines over big blocks

I have heard that there is definately a different sound from the big block over the small block , however I have also heard that the big blocks can be quite annoying due to the heat they create.

If I go with a 427FE all aluminum enginre will this solve the heating issue from an engine and foot box aspect

Also would you get the big block sound out of a small block Roush engine and avoid the heat issues

I am thinking of installing this in a BDR if that helps with the responses

Any responses wouild be much apprecited

Oh no...not again...
 

I'm going to make some popcorn !!! :3DSMILE:

Is it that time of the month already?

.............
 

Oh, no:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

This boy really needs to read an engine book and find out why this question is like asking what's better, the veal parmigiana or the egg foo young?

Boy are you going to get opinions !!!
 

So I might as well give you mine. In the end it will come down to personal preference. But there may be some things you should consider. If you are concerned about the history of the original Cobra, it is simply a fact that the small block (289) wrote the racing history and that the so called cobramen (Gurney, Hill, Bondurant...even old Shel) much prefered the small block and refered to the 427 as the "Turd". However, that was then and this is now and there no doubt that today... 427 is the magic number and you will see the disappointment on faces of people who will always ask you " Is it a 427 ?". Now, I have a small block 351W and I am very happy with my choice but if you ever intend to sell your car, the life cycle cost of the 427 is much cheaper than a small block largely because of re sale. Whatever you do will be right if it is what you want to do...this car is all about expectations...

I can tell you that my Roush sounds awesome and people are stunned to see it's a small block...

BIGGER IS BETTER.

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

He might be right
 

But you know, adolescent boys are obsessed with size....Silverback has been this way since the 7th grade...humor him...

Engine type is a preference really. I will address the heat issue though. I doubt that any engine, regardless of what type it is, will have less heat if it makes the same power. HP generates more heat. The hotter you can get an engine, short of meltdown, will make more power...it's physics. A mild 351W won't have as much heat as a Roush 402 or 427 based on the same block. Now.....the proximity of the engine to the panels can create more heat transfer, which may be what is being referred to. So a smaller external size can lessen that, but I doubt that it creates less heat of a comparable HP BB.

Yep...My motor sounds nastier than the standard 427R from Roush, but the standard 427 sounds very nice. I have a buddy that has been building engines and muscle cars for the past 25 years and he thought for sure I had a BB in my car until i opened the hood. Anyone who says that a BB sounds better than a SB has no idea what they are talking about. Cam, Compression, exhaust etc... all determine what the motor is going to sound like. I have heard nasty BB's and SB's, and also heard BB's that sound like crap. My.02

Since replica's take advatage of technological advancements why would you not take the same advancements with your engine choice? A Roush 427 has 427 cubic inches of displacement. Why buy radial tires, get some bias ply. By the most reliable engine you can, without it running the car will not drive. I explained that specifically for Bartruff1 LOL!!

Where's Rick Lake, our resident BB Superman, when you need him?

Another thread that has no resolution.

I drove two SPF's back to back on a 70 degree day. One had a 427 Roush engine, the other a Shelby 427 aluminum engine. The difference was drastic. The Roush a pleasure to drive. The aluminum engine was really hot!! Loads of heat coming from foot wells.

My friend and engine builder has a small block chevy in his malibu. It is about 800 hp and runs in the 8's, When he starts it, the street and houses in the area shake. Don't underestimate small blocks.

Rod Knock HERE I AM!!!!!!!!!!! You missed me??
 

ALL RIGHT WHAT'S THE PROBLEM!!!!:eek::confused: Finally got a job and within 1 week 3 dealerships want me. UNBELIEVABLE?**) I am running late tonight. Cobrarob If you are worried about hot feet and legs, I cobra may not be for you.%/:( Yes your legs get warm on a long drive.:o There are options for this. They sell these 4" bildge fans that you can either hook into your front duct to blow more cooler air on your feet or use them to pull the air out of the engine compartment through the side vents. You can also add KR500 louvers to your hood to help remove some of the hot air also. If you want no heat inside the car, you will need to double the insulation barriers and add dampener to the floor and tunnel to also help. Since you are going with a BDR, what is there feelings about power plant, transmission, and rearend ratio. Has for the Iron motor verses the Aluminium block, this is about wieght and handling of your car. You can build an Aluminium BBFE motor weighting the same as a iron small block. You can build a more powerful torque motor in a BB than windsor. It is easier to build a windsor to last longer at higher RPM's and cheaper to rebuild than an FE motor. If you want a certain exhaust sound, this is not about motor size as much it is about, camshaft, compression, header pipe size and MUFFLERS. from 10-60 HP will be lost on what mufflers you run. The less power loss and the faster your hearing will go on the left side of your head.:rolleyes: There is nothing like that ringing in your ear and looking for the phone to answer.:JEKYLHYDE:LOL::LOL::LOL: Rob until you decide what you are going to do with the car, what power you are looking for, we can guess all night about what to do with what motor you want to run. Keeping you cooler has nothing to do with BB or SB choice.:) I race a 482 FE. I don't have the time to think about how hot it is. If it was a street car, it would get alot more heat barriers, deadener, insulation added to be more street friendly. If you are worried about HOT,:CRY: add an A/C system, hard or soft top and a under the car exhaust.%/:rolleyes: Rick L. Ps Rod knock how did I do??:confused::rolleyes:;):) You can build a 427 stroker windsor for about 2-5 grand cheaper that an FE. IMO I will stay with my stroker torque FE motors with the same weight and it doesn't have to work as hard. I have a double overdrive T-56, might be the next thing.%/

Rick, defender of the faith. I couldn't say anything even half as good as you.

I would add that almost all BDR's have small block Fords in them for whatever reason better or worse.

It's a power to weight ratio
 

RodKnock We have both read everything and where and still are lucky enough to talk to some of the old cobra racer. Small block is faster in the small race course with short straight aways. Larger tracks the BB will caught up on the straights. The SB will wind up a little faster than a BBFE motor. That's the weight differents between the 2 motors. That's how it was. I think times have changed with the new cobras. I know that mine with P/S will handle as good as a SB. I am running a 495 lbs BBFE. The suspension is getting alot better also. Going to eat, later. Rick L.

Bartruff1 said:

If that is butter popcorn, can I come over and watch the show with you?

The risk with aluminium blocks is the bearing clearances have to be so tight when cold due to thermal expansion that the builder had better be skilled. Cast iron pigs are alot more forgiving with clearance and warpage.

Build what best suites your purpose for the car. As for accuracy, according to the history books, the 427 was really a 425 and the 428 was really a 427:confused: