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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2008, 08:23 PM
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Default Lead hammer remelt?

I remember seeing a post someone made about remelting (i.e. reshaping) their lead knock off hammer. Is there some kind of cast form that can be used on the stove top to remelt the ends? Mine look like they've been through a war and actually have pieces coming off now.
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:52 PM
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Why destroy the patina?
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Old 10-25-2008, 03:22 AM
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You could always break down and get a new one ....

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...ls/hammer.html
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Old 10-25-2008, 04:47 AM
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Sal,

Here is the thread. It is on page 3 and I think the 2nd post.

Spinner Safety Wiring - Straight In

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Old 10-25-2008, 05:10 AM
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You can get the mold and ingets from MCMASTER CAR Catalog.

You will need a torch though to heat the mold I would not recomend heating anything with lead on your stove!

Marc
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:13 AM
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I have an old one for use in the shop, when it's out of shape, I lay it on the flat part of my vise and beat it back (mold) in shape with my ball pien hammer.
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Old 10-25-2008, 07:53 AM
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I bought my lead hammer at Harbor Freight tool during one of their side-walk sales. Think I paid like $2.00 for it.
Larry
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Old 11-16-2008, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Power Surge View Post
I remember seeing a post someone made about remelting (i.e. reshaping) their lead knock off hammer.
American Hammer
800-981-9400
www.americanhammer.com

Saw an ad where they said that they recast a lead hammer for about $17.00
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Old 11-16-2008, 04:41 PM
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Be very careful screwing around with melting lead. I had a friend who was melting it to cast bullets and came up with a very high lead count in his blood. I was employed in an occupation where we were tested 2x a year for lead exposure. Working there we learned you can get lead exposure by breathing in the fumes during melting, eating it if you had been handling it and didnt wash up and also from absorbtion thru your skin.
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:22 PM
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Default Lead vs Brass

I was told to my surprise this past summer by a CSX car owner that the original 60's Cobras had brass hammers, not lead. He showed me his. Interesting.
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:57 PM
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Another warning on melting lead .... do NOT get any water in it when it`s molten . It will send out droplets of molten lead for quite a distance . When I was running dirt cars , we were melting wheel weights down in S. GA in the summer for ballast and I leaned over the kettle to skim the clips out of the lead , and some sweat hit the lead ... scared the living daylights out of me .
, luckily , only as few minor burns .
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry N Johnson View Post
I was told to my surprise this past summer by a CSX car owner that the original 60's Cobras had brass hammers, not lead. He showed me his. Interesting.
My father's Austin Healey 100 also had a brass hammer, and that's what I figured Cobras had too.
Larry
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Old 11-18-2008, 12:15 AM
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Default Lead Hammer remelt

I wonder if they used Linotype, which is lead with a higher tin content, commonly used in the printing industry years ago, I have a 20 litre container left from my projectile making, it may just be plain old lead as the hammers deform easily! The mould would be handy, and buy borrow a projectile electric lead melter.......!

Brass work hardens and could damage alloy knock offs! If you use a brass hammer it will mark the spinners. I suppose if you havent a lead hammer, use a brass hammer with some thick alloy folded to fit on the wings, so it allows the spinner to be knocked tight without unecessary damage!

I wonder how the tools work like Cobra Accessories sell, that allow you to torque the knock off same as the large nuts that most race cars have nowadays, the system is the same just a big thread and a fastener!
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Old 11-18-2008, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Power Surge View Post
I remember seeing a post someone made about remelting (i.e. reshaping) their lead knock off hammer. Is there some kind of cast form that can be used on the stove top to remelt the ends? Mine look like they've been through a war and actually have pieces coming off now.
Don't let the environmentalists know that pieces are coming off. They will declare your garage a toxic hazard from all that horrible lead.
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:15 AM
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From performance unlimited:

Muther Thumpin! TIP #2: After a lot of hard use, the soft face of the head of the hammer can become rough in appearance. This is to be expected and it still will deliver harmless performance to the much harder spinner material. You can simply use the other side of the hammer to extend perfect contact operation. To rejuvinate your Muther Thumper™ for extended use, you can simply heat the face with a torch to remelt the surface smooth. Or you can "sand" the face smooth again on a belt or disc sander, and in extreme situations, just cut the face off with a hack saw leaving as much remaining led on as possible. Since the head of the Muther Thumper™ is quite long in length, there is more than enough material for several refacings as time goes on, significantly extending the life of the tool far longer than other shorter, stubby hammers!

Steve
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovehamr View Post
From performance unlimited:

Muther Thumpin! TIP #2: you can simply heat the face with a torch to remelt the surface smooth. Or you can "sand" the face smooth again on a belt or disc sander, and in extreme situations, just cut the face off with a hack saw leaving as much remaining led on as possible.
Yeah,

That won't create any lead fumes or small lead particles to injest.........................
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:17 AM
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Many years ago the mechanics had lead hammers that they used. One mechanic sanded his hammer to keep it neat. Well the particals got in to his clothes that he wore.

The short version of this story is that both he, and his wife ended up with lead poisoning. His wife was infected from the particals that were in his clothes.

I would recommend not sanding them. Besides, they are cheap. Buy a new one.
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