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Us guys in Cape Town are always awake !
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Those do look good .If your going to make a batch I would be interested in a set of 20 for my car .
Chris |
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Do you have a special back-spacing on your rims? Can you measure your back spacing? Thanks! David :):):) |
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I didn't make myself very clear. I didn't mean 3/4" of engagement "of thread" I meant 3/4" engagement of the pin to the wheel. David :):):) |
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David :):):) |
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Which type do you need? Tapered? (What angle). Length? Flat? Let me know and I'll work up a price on Monday when I can call the metal supplier. David :):):) |
David,
I have a new Trigo rim sitting in my garage if you need a reference for holes and I have the Trigo pin tool if you want to check a 5 pin fit-up. (Amazing the stuff you find in a clean garage... ) Everyone should also remember that Superformance cars only used Trigo rims early on. First they had steel wheels with fake hubs, then Trigo's and then WAW's. I don't know if the pins are all the same, (Dia and length) but I do know for sure that the spinners are different on Trigo and WAW rims... edit: I looked it up: up to 300ish - steel wheels 300ish to 800ish - Trigo wheels 800ish and up - WAW wheels I also find some notes about the taper angle changing from the early pins to the newer pins...quote... "...early stud-bolts (green/brown) with the 1/2" allen-key tended to warp and expand, the later ones (silver) with the 12mm key seem not to be parallel looking at thread and barrel, plus the taper is not the same as the one on the adapter. no matter what you torque, it is prone to loosen..." Interesting old thread on CC in "Shop Talk" area - search Trigo Pin - then read "Trigo pins binding" thread... |
Yes,
the problems have been around since years. The nuts which have been used were merely a band-aid. Wheels sticking, nuts cracking, warping... The nut issue should be solved. It's only a matter of stud length and thread (for BMW suspension cars). Unfortunately, that is not the end of the knock-off wheel problems. Taper angle from the wing nut and wheel also seem to be different, causing seizure. In my opinion the thread of the nut should also be more loose to allow the nut to center in the wheel, and not on the thread causing it to seize (and brake when trying to knock off) There are also tolerances that add up in a very non-beneficial way some time. Like centering of the adapter on the hub, and then getting clamped by the taper of the nuts. Trying to "center" the adapter once more. Maybe we can catch the manufacturer's attention to look into that some time... Wheelcraft/Vintage has their own solution, allowing a lot of play between nut and hole in the wheel. Their multi PCD adapter with 10 holes is suitable for BMW, Merc, FORD and Chev (Jag). Metric PCDs and Imperial are off by a couple of tenths. Dom |
David,
My wheels are pretty much standard Vintage that I purchased in Dec. 2004. Front-HAO2F-4"backspace Rear-HAO2R-4"backspace At that time they offered 3.6" or 4" only. I am certain if you contacted Bob @ Vintage he would be thrilled to speak with you about your nuts (LOL), as I know he has had quality problems in the past & he would be very happy to secure a quality supplier like yourself Thanks Craig |
If you are needing a count you can put me down for 20 of the size to fit the Vintage wheels.
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Trigo Instructions
Everyone is throwing around torque values, Loctite/No Loctite, Red/Blue but it really depends on the brand and style of wheel and pin drive.
Just to help clear the confusion, this is a copy of the instructions for Trigo Wheels - the ones produced by Lynn Park. I can not confirm they are still the same for the SoCal produced ones The old Trigo's were calling for 60 ft. lbs and no mention of thread locker. Paul Trigo_Instructions.pdf |
David,
I have Trigo adapters and rims, chromed. Also have magnesium rims, Halibrand. The Trigo pins were/are a pain. Mine are true now as tested at speed, so I dare not remove an adapter. Terry Stapley here has just installed Vintage Wheels. They are very, very nice units. BTW, his pins seem perfect, no issues at all. Wheels went right on after he tightened them. Terry used anti-sieze liberally on everything. On the Jag-based fronts, a person named Simon makes a replacement hub w pins to match the 5-pin wheels, eliminating the adapters altogether. In the image below, the Simon hub is on the left, on the right is the stock Jag hub w adapter (no pins shown). http://www.primequip.net/images/65%2..._Simon_Hub.jpg The question came up if the Vintage and Trigo spinners had the same threads, so I tried Terry's Vintage spinners on my Trigo adapters. They fit the same it appears, threaded right on by hand. Test of spinner threads. Here is a Trigo spinner on a Trigo adapter: http://www.primequip.net/images/65%2...nner_trigo.jpg Here are both spinners, Gold is Trigo, Polished is Vintage: http://www.primequip.net/images/65%2...intage-640.jpg Here is the Vintage spinner on the Trigo adapter: http://www.primequip.net/images/65%2...er_Vintage.jpg So, from what I can tell, the wheels and spinners are interchangeable. More testing can be done if it would "help the cause". |
That's cool!
Does anyone make a hub that fit Trigo's for Mustang II spindles? Larry |
Larry,
I have been told that a Trigo spinner will work on a WAW wheel but a WAW spinner will not work on a Trigo wheel. SOOOOOO....If the WAW wheel and the Vintage wheel have the same angle on the face of the spinner...the first sentence applies for Vintage wheels....It has to do with the angle of the bearing face and the spinners coming loose... |
Larry,
Thanks for the pics! If you are down in Provo, I'd like to take a look at those parts to take some measurements. I'd like to confirm angles. LMH, Interesting thought...I imagine we could figure something out. Blas, What is a WAW wheel? (We have mainly used Trigos over the years). I will quote the pins tomorrow. I got the stainless quote back late today. Not as bad as I thought. I thought it would be 4 times as expensive as chromoly--it was only 3 times! David :eek::eek::eek: |
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Larry |
Great input, now we are getting somewhere! :-)
I wish the adapters were not countersunk and the nuts flat. But that would mean all adapter manufacturers must read this thread... The adapters are countersunk, because of the available nuts. One could drill the taper out... Vintage (which are made in South-Africa by Wheelcraft/WAW) feature flat nuts and adapters. The Jag conversion reminds me of Contemporary's setup. Those days for 6-pin, which were very heavy and expensive for the front. And even more expensive for the rear, but they worked like a dream! What is ERA's version? (there should be a link not popping up from Bob) Dom |
I meant: "...now popping up"
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We only make one-piece 6-pin hubs that fit a GM spindle (front) and the Jag bearings (rear).
http://www.erareplicas.com/427/img/f6pinhub.jpg http://www.erareplicas.com/427/img/r6pinhub.jpg |
Lovely!
And what is your gap between pin drive (stud) and hole in the wheel? Wheelcraft has 7/10mm in diameter to allow for metric and imperial PCD wheels to fit. Is the torque transfered via the studs or the wheel clamped by the wing nut? Or both? I know that my mate's Can-Am has quite short pin drives to turn the wheel. And so have various Lolas. They do, however, feature steel insert in the mags. Dom |
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