Pin drive bolts splitting Help Please

[Dominik]

Sadly, that problem has been around for years with "wheels sticking" (due to non-concentric nuts)
I had new nuts done for my clients in Germany and South-Africa since years.
Gladly, we found someone to take on the problem in the US and solve it with the help of all here :-)
Ironically, Kirkham does not even use that setup!

Now we can start a new thread about the spinners...

Dom

[David Kirkham]

Originally Posted by Dominik

Sadly, that problem has been around for years with "wheels sticking" (due to non-concentric nuts)
I had new nuts done for my clients in Germany and South-Africa since years.
Gladly, we found someone to take on the problem in the US and solve it with the help of all here :-)
Ironically, Kirkham does not even use that setup!

Now we can start a new thread about the spinners...

Dom

Dom,

Another problem I did not address is the potential under such extremes for galled material to push itself under one side of the nut and "tip" it to one side or another. Thus making wheels very hard, if not impossible, to take off and put back on as the bolt hole circle will not be in the proper orientation.

Bending the pin straight is a very BAD idea. You will load an even smaller area of the pin on the side you bent it towards and have the pin fail even faster. If the pins don't line up then you need to step back, find the problem, and correct it.

I will address concentricity shortly. I suspect it is not too good.

David

[Dominik]

I will address concentricity shortly. I suspect it is not too good.

David
[/quote]

No, it was never good. It has been addressed in the SCOF (Superformance Forum) some years ago as well.

Except with Vintage it mattered less because they have 7/10mm play between pin and hole... (hole diameter in wheel: 19.7mm)
And apparently they also have a slightly better pin to start with! Or even a smaller diameter pin.

The spinner not coming loose is being discussed while we speak.
Can't get spinners off

I have some red wine now.

Dom

[David Kirkham]

Originally Posted by Dominik

The spinner not coming loose is being discussed while we speak.
Can't get spinners off

I have some red wine now.

Dom

That is because our tapers DO match.

David

[Paul F]

David,

I don't think I want to ship an adaptor to you, but using a square piece of sheet metal, it looks like 90 degrees.

[David Kirkham]

Couldn't have done this without the help of CNGreen, Paul F. and Larry Johnson!

Thanks!

David

[CNGreen]

Originally Posted by David Kirkham

Couldn't have done this without the help of CNGreen, Paul F. and Larry Johnson!

Thanks!

David

No, thank YOU David! Any pics of the new pins yet?

[David Kirkham]

Originally Posted by Paul F

David,

I don't think I want to ship an adaptor to you, but using a square piece of sheet metal, it looks like 90 degrees.

Paul,

Using a piece of metal is actually a very good method for checking angles. Take a pen light and shine it behind the metal. Check to see if you can see any light. You can see an astonishingly small sliver of of light--less than 0.001" quite easily.

David

[Paul F]

David,

I backlit it as you suggested and saw no light on the unused holes (there is two sets of 5 holes). On the holes I have used, with it backlit, I can see the distortion at the bottom of the taper where the pin made contact. The taper has been pushed down and is no longer 90 degrees at the contact area. But that's ok. I have the other set of good holes. I'm now wondering if the baseplate of the hub is no longer flat. I'll check that later.

[David Kirkham]

We just measured TIR at 0.004"

Not horribly bad, but all those tolerances add up.

0.004 on the hub holes
0.004 on the pin
0.004 on the wheel
0.004 on the hub adapter to the hub

and you are now out 0.016 and you wonder why your wheels won't go on. Now, I am not saying the hub and wheel are out. I am just illustrating the nasty concept of "Tolerance Stacking."

David