front end specs and 90 float.

[Gary Stubbs]

planning on having front end realighned. Changed the setup on ride height. Am getting some front end float at 85 90 and i assume on up. Maybe not be float but definitely not planted. Just wondering if alighnment or air dam would help or a splitter? Also, would a new(adjustable) upper control arm be an improvement of just leave alone. No racing intended, maybe autocrosss if can find where to run in Phoenix and not with the Porsche clubs.
Thanks Gary

[RallySnake]

When you say front end float it means one of two things to me:

1. Something's loose. You need to jack up the car, put it on jack stands, get someone to shake the tires back and forth as hard as they can while you look for the play. Most likely the wheel bearings are adjusted too loose. Could be the ball joints, a-arm bushings or tie rod ends, though. Replace everything you can with poly urethane bushings.

2. Your shocks have leaked the oil out or the rubber bushings have worn out and are letting the wheels bounce too much.

Ninety is nothing in these cars, you need to get that under control.

Paul

[sharpe 1]

A air dam will help. It will push the air around the front end creating a low pressure in the front, pulling it down. A simple piece of hard rubber angled down and clearing the pavement by an inch or two mounted under radiator brackets will work. It would look similar to the ones used on new cars to help with cooling.Serves both purposes.

[Gary Stubbs]

Thanks. Will get to checking front end play. Have been wanting to replace upper and lower control arms anyway. Have new steering rack and bumpsteer setup. Checked all and everything is tight so must be some slop somewhere. Airdam next tho

[xlr8or]

What did you change the ride height to? Did you raise or lower and which end?

[Gary Stubbs]

Front of frame at 4" and rear at 4 1/2". Just don't like the fact of float at 90. Can't do 1/4 mile run and feel good or safe about it.

[aharris]

Gary

Consider a splitter. Dark Water Customs makes one for the FFR which bolts in for about $220. Helps up to about 130.

Cheers

Andrew

[strictlypersonl]

Gary,

Have you actually checked the bumpsteer over the full range of wheel travel? While the bumpsteer may be tolerable at normal ride height, I suspect that the front end lifts significantly at speed, which puts your "neutral" in a different point in the toe-in graph.

[Jac Mac]

A bit more castor @ front might be all it needs to track 'straight' especially if it has not been rechecked since you set ride heights @ 4.0" Front, 4.5" Rear, you dont sound convinced that its lifting, just doesnt feel 'right'! ( which means it probably isnt. )

[Gary Stubbs]

Have not checked bump steer over full range yet. The feeling is the front is not planted. Like in a pickup or slightly overloaded in the rear that the steering is light. Yet it feels like front has lifted.
The castor was set at 3 with 1/2 camber and 1/16 total. What should I try Next. The splitter looks good and does it really work as well as an air dam or do both. Its only money. I say this because the wife is not here and this reply will self destruct in 10 min. Thanks for all the input and keep it coming.
gary

[strictlypersonl]

To check whether the front end is going toe-out at speed (which will make the car feel unstable), add some additional static toe-in and see if that decreases the hunting. If it helps, take the time to check bump-steer.

[Jerry Clayton]

change the castor to around 6 degrees to see if it gets better

[RICK LAKE]

Gary Stubbs Gary 1/4 mile racing is nothing like autocross or even high speed cruising. Do you any video of the car maken a pass at the big end?? This will help alot. It sound like you don't have enough spring in the car for a small block. You want the car to squat to put added load on the rear tires for traction has you move down the track you want the car to settle at the other end. What shocks are you running? You need to add rebound on the front end if everything is OK. The car will try to lift with the big radiator opening and the hood scoop moving air into the engine compartment. Raise the rack on the car to 1" front to back and try this. I have my car running 5" in the back and 4 1/2" in the front. The springs in the front are over 400 pounds with QA1 shocks, with double adjustment. The rears are the Factory ones Spacs with 250 pound rate in the rearend. 4 shocks. Running a BB also helps with the wieght even if it is all Aluminium. I have a 49/51 front to back ratio. Replace the front end parts, set the toe for 0, with the car running down the track and the front end up, this will give you 1/16" toe out and will keep the car stable at high speed. Running a lower caster will slow down your steering input to the car also. What tires are you running? If you don't want to run a full spoiler on the front of the car, you can get F1 canards that wil give you just a little down force on the front end. Rick L.