Oil Pan...To Weld or to Replace?

RedBarchetta · #1 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 09:21 AM

My 9 year old Canton 15-660 (7 qt) has decided that no amount of sealant is going to hold back the flow. After a spirited cruise yesterday and a 30 minute cool down, I came back to my car to find 1/2 quart of fresh Kendall SAE 50 on the garage floor and a steady drip from the back of the sump. Just glad it was seepage and I didn't split the whole thing while on the road (at speed).

Am I fooling myself that these leaks can be repaired from the outside? I'm going to pull the pan either way (after my previous bearing swap, and then the subsequent fuel pump eccentric failure, I'm a pro at this now...

). But I'm not a welder and the portions that are leaking are below the internal baffles. So they can only be accessed from the outside.

All opinions welcomed, thanks!

-Dean

Three Peaks · #2 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 09:36 AM

A good welder should be able to weld those up with no problems. Just make sure the pan is good and clean on the inside so you don't get any contamination in the weld and don't start a fire while welding.

Bob

Fordzilla · #3 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 10:06 AM

Dean, They can probably be welded but how long before there is a problem again or in a new area. You'll always be thinking about it & little things like this can rob the fun of a cruise. If it were mine, I would replace it & have peace of mind.
Regards,

kobrabytes · #4 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 10:08 AM

Replace it. Why deal with the hassle?

Back in the 70's my brother welded up the oil pan on his jeep, it still leaked. When he sold the jeep he told the new owner that he should relace the pan, he never did and ran the engine dry.

I'd vote for peace of mind.

RedBarchetta · #5 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 10:27 AM

Yeah, I'm favoring a replacement at the moment. I just have to wrestle with whether or not I'm going to go the extra expense of having it powder coated like the current one. The gold iridite finish on the stock Canton is

, but then again it's just an oil pan...I'm the only one that usually sees it.

Ron61 · #6 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 10:45 AM

Just my .02¢ worth but I wold replace it. I had a Canton and never worried abut the Gold color. When the rock picks and such got to much I would just take a rattle can and spray it gold again. I had one other pan that was welded on another car and about 2 months later it started leaking from a tiny split that was starting at the end of the weld. After that I felt much more at ease with a new pan.

Ron

Silverback51 · #7 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 10:45 AM

I would vote to replace it also. When compared to the price of an engine, it's cheap insurance.

RedBarchetta · #8 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 11:13 AM

Decision made...will purchase a new one this week. Thanks for the inputs.

cab · #9 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 11:23 AM

Ron, the guy who welded your pan may have not drilled the crack at both ends of it ,if you do this iti would stop the leak.I have repaired many pans and modifyed them too .

CoupedUp · #10 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

...it's just an oil pan...I'm

I am seriously ashamed of you. You have the unmitigated gaul to call yourself a waxer and you're going to leave it gold??? I expect nothing less than red with two white strips down the middle. Then you can jack up one side at car shows and put a friggin' mirror on the ground. Geeeeez, Dean - I really expected more from you...

Doug

RedBarchetta · #11 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CoupedUp

I am seriously ashamed of you. You have the unmitigated gaul to call yourself a waxer and you're going to leave it gold??? I expect nothing less than red with two white strips down the middle. Then you can jack up one side at car shows and put a friggin' mirror on the ground. Geeeeez, Dean - I really expected more from you...

Doug

Are you...No!...Don't tell me...If I had only told the J. Force judges that my pan was powder coated I would have w...damn.

DougD · #12 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 08:14 AM

You can replace the pan vs repairing it, but don't assume that by buying a new one, it will be leak-free. I know of three brand new Canton pans that have (or had) weld leaks from new. The one on my Fox Mustang requires the engine to be pulled in order to fix it. A slow drip that annoys the h*%% out of me, but it will have to wait 'till there's a better reason to pull the engine out.

In the future, I will figure a way to pressure test any aftermarket pan I put on an engine before I install it.

xracerbob · #13 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 08:50 AM

I had a slight weep hole in my new Aviaid pan and used Loctite 3462 metal epoxy stuff and so far after several heat cycles seems fine. I drained the pan, sanded, put it on, then sanded again and painted. Very hard to see the repair. I figured it was worth the try for about $15.

vettestr · #14 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 09:30 AM

Hey Dean,
I know you were leaning toward a new pan but my 2 cents is weld that bad boy up if your welder says it is an easy fix. Each situation is different but I would not be against repairing and running on my own car if it all checked out OK. You will have to bling out what ever direction you go so you can max out the score card at Force's next get togethe. Hmmm?

I have started to use Jet-Hot on my oil pans with the possible bonus of extra oil cooling. Jet Hot would also be a good sealer but it would not seem to be any better than powder coating to that end. I ceramic coated the oil pan, intake manifold and the aluminum timing cover on my own engine. If it does nothing for cooling it has made keeping thing clean a breeze, especially the intake manifold.

mickmate · #15 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 09:55 AM

I would have it welded using a low temperature process like gas weld or brazing after a real thorough cleaning. A welded pan is like a scar on a guy, it looks cool and is like a badge of courage (or stupidity that we'd never admit to).

Bugman · #16 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 10:27 AM

I had a hole in my Canton pan and welded it last year. I've driven over 1,000 miles with no more leaks.

RedBarchetta · #17 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougD

You can replace the pan vs repairing it, but don't assume that by buying a new one, it will be leak-free. I know of three brand new Canton pans that have (or had) weld leaks from new.

This is the part that concerns me. Are these older stories or more recent? I can't imagine that Canton's QC is that bad, is it? They have to have mechanisms in place to pressure test every component that they manufacture.

A hot tanking, re-weld and fresh powder coat is far less than a new one.

CobraDan · #18 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 12:15 PM

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/store/warranty.html

Bugman · #19 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 12:42 PM

Red, My pan did not have problems with the construction of it. I scraped a hole in the bottom when I was giving my 300lb plus nephew a ride and bottomed out on some whoop-dee-doos...It is no fault of Cantons that I got a hole in mine. Droppoing the pan and welding it was not a major deal in the least. Should you decide to have your pan welded take it off and have it done OFF the vehicle. I decided welding it was the route for me since I have a welder and it was much cheaper for me to run a new bead than spend $400 for a new pan.

RedBarchetta · #20 (**permalink**) 03-09-2009, 12:49 PM

Oh, the pan is coming off either way. I'm not even remotely going to attempt to weld on the car when 2-3 personal hours of R&R labor and $25 in gasket/sealant (and the overall hassle) is really all I'm dealing with. I've placed two good pan seals on before...I can do that, again. Not happy about it, but can do it never-the-less.