67 Roadster Questions
 

I'm looking at two kits: Factory Five and AC.
FF provides a lot of info. on their car but, there is less info. available for AC's car. I like what Roscoe and EddyTheB has done with this kit. I really like the simplicity of th AC car. I would appreciate any help answering some questions I have.

Does the roll bar provide protection or is it for looks?
I have seen some post where the fiberglass is cracking, is this a problem with the bodies or installation?
What is the advantage of kevlar?
How well does this car handle/perform and why don't most roadster kits come with anti-roll bars?
How well do these cars hold up to a lot of miles?

Thanks,
Cliff

Welcome Cliff........

to answer your first question...
most roll bars are for looks......
with the resins and hardeners used today to build
these bodies it's not much of a problem anymore...
kevlar is stronger that the fiberglass and it's also lighter
and in most cases not necessary........
Cobras will and can handle very well if you are an experienced driver
and they are setup well....if your not an experienced driver then you
may want to start with a mild motor and work your way up to more HP
anti-roll bars???? i think you mean sway bars....and most cars do have them
mine does on the front .....
and as for your last question....it will only be as good as the person
takeing care of it....keep it maintained and it will last for decades.......
you are looking at 2 great kits...my personal choice would be(if i where buying again) a Hurricane........you may spend a little more but i thing you would be getting more for your buck

I would say the fiberglass from A&C is the best. If you like body work get the FF. I've got the gel coat. Mount the doors and your done. It apple and oranges. Fiberglass is extremely stout. Not sure why you would get kevlar? You pick the body by the fenders to move it around and no flex. I have only one spider crack after 2 years around the window frame. MY fault not clearancing the frame properly. Gel coat is very tough. I cant tell you the numer of times I accidently bumped with tools and no scratches. Pant would have chipped.
Roll bar mout is stout.
I dont have a anti sway bay. Very little body roll ,low c.g and lite weight. There is room to add one. I priced it out at $120 to 140 from a hot rod supplier.
This has to be one of the easiest build kits.
I would get another one.
Ron

I thought the new FF body was supposed to be a lot less work.

Thanks for the quick responses.

I have a race prepared 91 LX Mustang that has seen better days. The 6 speed transmission and 500+ HP 347 SBF are fresh and looking for a new home. I've always wanted to own a "Cobra" and sounds like a match to me. The mustang has been rolled (not be me) and the full cage protected the driver and car (for the most part). New roof and hood and the car was ready to roll. Safety is a concern for me so I was curious if the roll bar in the AC roadster is connected to the frame like the FF? Also, how hard was it for those of you that built their own car to get it registered with DMV?

Thanks Again,
Cliff

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sway_bar

Call your local DMV you will get better info from them.....

I am a fan of FFR, the price, the support, the easy maintenance for the most part. That assumes a typical build, 302, T-5, live axle. Cheap, effective, reliable, decent performance all in all, a hard to beat package.

However, personally I just can't get around the perky butt issue and that factor alone rules them out for me. So, how about this new generation? I think it's a winner, I think it's a horse race between several different manufacturers with this new generation FFR. At least, now I would consider one.

As far as handling goes there is a bunch of stuff you can do to most all the replicas to improve it. But most all of them handle pretty darn good "right out of the box" in stock form. TIRE choice is the biggest issue when it comes to handling, that is the one place you should not even consider cutting corners or trying to save a few bucks on.

Goodrich TA's, Goodyear GT-II's, other typical "street tires" will disappoint. You should be looking at Goodyear "Bill Boards" (bias, non DOT, controversial BUT they stick good) or Avon's (big money, TALL tires, will they even FIT?). Some folks go with 17" rim's or whatever. Myself, I'll stick with 15", they just look, feel better, more "soul" for a replica if you would.

Oddly enough, many folks have found a rear sway bar is not always a good idea on a replica. Front yes, rear, hmmm, maybe, there are a number of factors that may or may not dictate the need for one. I've heard some FFR owners, in particular, talk about a rear sway bar makes the car more tail happy in hard cornering, for instance.

Cliff:
You need to ask yourself some questions.
Is this going to be a driver or track car. Roscoe does both. I only drive my car on the streets, 15k miles, gel coated body, still looks great. The roll bar does mount to the frame. The body is very thick compared to the FFR body. The cowl area is almost 1/2" thick. I had to get longer bolts for some areas where it would go thru the body.
The interior is fiberglassed to the body, four guys lift by the wheel wells.
I did not want to deal with all the body prep and paint. I could see spending another 10k to have that done. All I had to do was buff it a bit and wax it. People at shows can not believe it is basically a boat finish.
I was first going o go with FFR back in 2000 but it was suggested to stop into A& C and the body sold me.
The build took about 10 months on weekends.
Not sure what the Iowa DMV wants but I registered it in Ohio as a "Self Assembled" Vehicle. They treated it like it came from a salvage yard. They were only interested in receipts and if the all the lights worked.
Good luck with the build!
On this forum you can ask other A & C guys questions, we are all very helpful.
Jim
Jim

Thanks again for the info.

I checked with the Iowa DMV and downloaded the section of Iowa code that covers "kit" cars. It seems strait forward but I need to look into it further.

I agree with Excaliber about the 15" wheels, they just look right. Problem is there is so much more available for the 17" wheels.

Both the FFR and AC roadster seem to be good cars. I am leaning toward the AC at this time, very happy about the frame mounted roll bar, jell coat and simplicity. I would like to keep the budget for this project between $25-$30,000, so I still have some research to do.

Thanks,
Cliff

I would like to keep the budget for this project between $25-$30,000, so I still have some research to do.

:eek: wouldn't we all, that my friend will be hard to do

eddytheb,

You do some very nice work, I think I might have drooled a little looking at the photos on your site the last couple of days. What do you think is a reasonable budget for an AC roadster minus engine and transmission?

Don't worry I wont hold you to it.

Cliff

Are you going to do everything your self

Roll bar is bolted to the frame and will operate as intended. After 10 years on the road I have no fiberglass cracks. I see no advantage in using Kevlar. I have open tracked my Cobra several times and it handles like a Ferrari. I have over 25k miles on mine. I have a front sway bar. Still in gelcoat and looks like a paint job. If you like doing body work and spending an extra 5 grand you'll love FFR.

Remember, the Cobra will only be as good as the builder.

No matter which you choose, your Cobra will whisper to you "take me for granted and I will kill you."

Roscoe

Eddytheb,

I will be doing the work myself with the help of a couple of friends, who have various professional skills (welder and SAE Cert. mechanic). I have a garage with a lift and the appropriate tools. The part I will need the most help with is any body work. Arguably the most expensive part, thats why the gelcoat is attractive. This is not intended to be a driver not a show car.

Roscoe,

Thanks, you answered my questions. Love your 67 roadster.

Cliff

And check my build site at http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm

Thanks,
Roscoe

Roscoe
 

Do you still have your cobra?
Jon

Sure, drive it as often as I can....

Roscoe

Budget
 

SuperLX,

I'm almost finished with my A&C, I have kept every receipt except for very minor things and I'm under 29k. After registration and title I'll be around 31k. I don't think that is to bad for the car I'll end up with. I bought a completed 347 with a T5. It makes 450 hp, that should be plenty for the weight of this car. The body is awsome, most people think I have painted mine and I didn't even get the colored gel coat. I would pick the A&C over everytime. As far as support, Joe will help with anything you might have. And this site is a bonus, the guys are great help.


Joey

Joey,

Thanks for the reply. How long did it take and do you have any photos?

Cliff

A & C Kit
 

I built my car on a budget. I worked a second job to pay for my car. I ordered the kit in March of 2008 and received the frame in November. I assembled the rolling chassis and then received the body in June of 2009. I built as the funds would allow. It has been a lengthy project by well worth it. I'm sorry I can't really tie down a time. I do have pictures in my gallery, just click the camera icon under my name, and more if needed.

Joey