4 link 9" set up

olddog · #1 (**permalink**) 06-21-2010, 03:10 PM

My 9" ford rear end has a 4 link set up.

The lower arms are straight pieces that come straight back off of the main frame rail.

The upper arms are straight pieces that are at about a 45 deg angle from the main frame rails, pointing outward as they go back to the rear end housing.

Both upper and lower arms are aluminum pieces with absolutely no adjustment ability. Simply have a hole at each end with rubber bushings and a bolt passing through.

Is this the standard set up on a A&C Cobra? I think it was purchased as a roller around 2001.

Any ideas on the best way to adjust the pinion angle?

Matsango · #2 (**permalink**) 06-21-2010, 07:59 PM

Call Joe or sonny at A&C they offer adjustable rear link arms

John

Roscoe · #3 (**permalink**) 06-22-2010, 05:40 AM

I installed adjustable uppers so I could get my pinion angle correct.

Roscoe

PNJSNAK · #4 (**permalink**) 06-22-2010, 06:05 AM

I replaced the aluminum bars with Upper and Lower adjustable rear link arms from Pete Clark at www.fasttimesrods.com in Dunkirk, NY.
I also bought his panard bar to keep the rear from moving side to side under heavy turning loads.
Pete can supply anything you need for you car.
Jim

DocDirk · #5 (**permalink**) 06-22-2010, 11:33 AM

I found a great set of adjustable replacement contrl arms for my 4 link 9" setup from here: suicidedoors.com.

olddog · #6 (**permalink**) 07-12-2010, 04:17 PM

Ok I tried to call A&C today both the sales and the service number a couple times each. No answer. No answering machine. Am I just unlucky, something unusual going on, or is this typical? Is there a best time to call?

saltshaker · #7 (**permalink**) 07-12-2010, 04:40 PM

try to call Joe around 7:30 am...unless they went on vacation for the week!

FUNFER2 · #8 (**permalink**) 07-12-2010, 04:58 PM

You should have at least three different bolt holes in a bracket, front & rear and all four bars should be parallel to each other. Do you have any travel at all ?

Take some photo's and I'll walk you through.

rdc767 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-13-2010, 10:11 AM

I had luck on Tuesdays and Thrusdays. LOL
Ron

olddog · #10 (**permalink**) 07-13-2010, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

You should have at least three different bolt holes in a bracket, front & rear and all four bars should be parallel to each other. Do you have any travel at all ?

Take some photo's and I'll walk you through.

I'll get pictures this week end. I want to get some measurements anyways.

The bottom arms are parallel to the frame rails. The top arms come in at about 45 deg. The web site says they are triangulated. There is no pan-hard bar. I do not see any options to adjust in any way. No extra bolt holes. Maybe on top I could have missed something, but I don't think so.

I have no idea if the arms are A&C parts. They are solid aluminum.

olddog · #11 (**permalink**) 07-13-2010, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdc767

I had luck on Tuesdays and Thrusdays. LOL
Ron

Didn't get an answer today either. Maybe vacation?

Wbulk · #12 (**permalink**) 07-13-2010, 08:45 PM

First you need to check the angles to see if it needs to be adjusted. With the rear suspension at ride height put an angle finder on a flat spot of the yoke coming out of the trans. Then put the angle finder on a flat machined spot on the rear axle pinion yoke. The trans should be down and the axle up and close within a degree of so usually. But the axle should not be up more than the trans is down. So if the axle is 2 degrees positive and the trans is 3 degrees negative that's in the ballpark. If you have large rubber bushings and a big engine you can go with say 1 degree positive (up) on the axle or sometimes a greater difference because the soft rubber arm bushings and the torque will cause the axle pinion to rotate up. When it rotates up it should be close to the down angle of the trans but not exceed it. Hope this helps.

PNJSNAK · #13 (**permalink**) 07-14-2010, 07:33 AM

The solid aluminum bars are what comes standard on the A & C kit. The only way to adjust the pinion angle is to go to adjustable bars. There are no extra holes in the brackets.
You can get the adjustable bars from A & C or like I did get the from Pete at Fast Times Rods. You can also get a panard bat from A & C or Pete. They both sell weld on and bolt on models.
If you want to go for a ride up north a bit, I am in Macedonia off I271, be happy to show you my setup. Give me a pm if you are interested.
By the way, I saw your car at LCS 2008, love the bench seat, different!
Jim

byron w · #14 (**permalink**) 07-14-2010, 08:10 AM

Why not call Dana at Shell Valley. They are the same thing as that is where they come from.
Byron

olddog · #15 (**permalink**) 07-14-2010, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wbulk

First you need to check the angles to see if it needs to be adjusted. With the rear suspension at ride height put an angle finder on a flat spot of the yoke coming out of the trans. Then put the angle finder on a flat machined spot on the rear axle pinion yoke. The trans should be down and the axle up and close within a degree of so usually. But the axle should not be up more than the trans is down. So if the axle is 2 degrees positive and the trans is 3 degrees negative that's in the ballpark. If you have large rubber bushings and a big engine you can go with say 1 degree positive (up) on the axle or sometimes a greater difference because the soft rubber arm bushings and the torque will cause the axle pinion to rotate up. When it rotates up it should be close to the down angle of the trans but not exceed it. Hope this helps.

Oh it needs adjusted alright. By eye the pinion is pointing up by 10-15 deg. First I need to get the parts to be able to adjust it. Thanks for your help. I wasn't initially going to measure the trany end, but your right. I need check out the entire setup and get everything corrected.

Wbulk · #16 (**permalink**) 07-14-2010, 03:39 PM

10-15 deg. ! That may be a problem. Even with adjustable ends your upper arms may not line up with the mounting points. As you rotate the axle the upper arms swing in an arch. The further off the angle is the further the upper arms move out of alignment with the mounting points. Think about it. You may need to add heim joints on one end. I would put it up on jack stands and disconnect one side of the upper arms. Calculate what the pinion angle should be and put a jack under the axle nose and rotate it down where it needs to be. Then take a look at where your upper arms align.

Wayne

olddog · #17 (**permalink**) 07-14-2010, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNJSNAK

The solid aluminum bars are what comes standard on the A & C kit. The only way to adjust the pinion angle is to go to adjustable bars. There are no extra holes in the brackets.
You can get the adjustable bars from A & C or like I did get the from Pete at Fast Times Rods. You can also get a panard bat from A & C or Pete. They both sell weld on and bolt on models.
If you want to go for a ride up north a bit, I am in Macedonia off I271, be happy to show you my setup. Give me a pm if you are interested.
By the way, I saw your car at LCS 2008, love the bench seat, different!
Jim

Thanks for the invite. Did we talk a London? If we don't get together before hand look me up next time your at London.

I'm trying to get some prices and would like to talk with A&C. I'm a patient man but I have my limits.

PNJSNAK · #18 (**permalink**) 07-14-2010, 05:52 PM

I don't know if we spoke, I just remember your car with the full roll bar and the grey bench seat.
Give Pete Clark a call at 716-366-1806 or email at niteowlwelding@aol.com or go to www.fasttimesrods.com.
Pete is a great guy, he has done a bunch of stuff for me.
If you want mention my name "Jim from Macedonia".
He can fix you up with what you need.
Escpecially, if you can't get hold of anyone at A & C.
Jim